Detailing Info Wanted: '69 Shelby GT-350 351W

I have an all original 80,000 mile 351W 2V in my '69 Cougar that I am changing it over to a 4V as part of a cosmetic and mid-level rebuild project. I am going for a look similar to a '69 Shelby 351W under the hood.

Here is my parts list-

-original over the counter C9OX aluminum 4V intake manifold (non-SHELBY lettered, non-FORD lettered) - PURCHASED
-correct style reproduction aluminum thermostat housing
-original '66 428 Police Interceptor Autolite 4100 4V carburetor - PURCHASED
-correct style reproduction accelerator cable bracket for a Holley syle 4V carb - PURCHASED
-stainless steel correct style reproduction C-4 automatic transmission kick down linkage rod - PURCHASED
-stock '69 air cleaner base with metal elbow - PURCHASED
-correct original non-PS, non-AC single groove engine pulleys - PURCHASED
-Hi-Po alternator pulley - PURCHASED
-correct style Autolite-cased alternator with 100 amp internals
-stock Autolite distributor converted to mechanical advance with Pertronix Ignitor II
-original heads rebuilt with screw in studs, roller-tipped stamped steel rocker arms, and poly locks
-Daytona Cams reproduction C9OX over the counter hottie hydraulic cam cut for 351W firing order
-Canton Boss 302-style baffled steel oil pan, new oil pump, windage tray and crank scraper
-roller timing chain
-aluminum water pump (Milodon or Edelbrock)
-original Boss 302 5-blade flex fan - PURCHASED
-full-length tubular exhaust headers - PURCHASED
-engine oil cooler system made up of components from 70's and 80's Police Interceptors - PURCHASED

I know that many of these parts are far from stock, but the majority of them are parts that are hidden and the rest will blend right in with careful detailing. With that said, I have a few questions for all of you Shelby restorers, experts and owners out there that will help me add some authenticity to my motor.

First question: What is the correct carburetor spacer for a '69 Shelby 351W? What height is it? Is it made of black bakelite or natural or painted aluminum? Is there a provision for the PCV hose built into the spacer or does the PCV hose attach to a connector threaded into the back of the intake manifold?

Second question: What is the correct hardware for bolting down the aluminum intake on a '69 Shelby 351W? Do you use the same intake bolts as a cast iron intake? What is the corect finish on the bolts: painted, plated or natural?

Third question: What is the correct hardware for bolting down the aluminum valve covers on a '69 Shelby 351W? Do you use the same bolts as with steel valve covers? What is the corect finish on the bolts: painted, plated or natural?

Fourth question: What is the correct finish on the thermostat housing and the bolts that attach it?

Fifth question: Does anyone have photos of a concours detailed '69 Shelby 351W that they would be willing to email me? I would love to have them for reference (especially a shot with the air cleaner removed).

Any help or advice any of you out there might have is greatly appreciated.​

 

Hello out there...

Is there anyone out there who might have an answer to one of my questions? I am sure that there must be at least one or two Shelby Forums members who own a '69 GT-350! At the very least it would be great if someone could send a good photo of the engine.

Thanks​

 

shelbyH1886-

Some pics of your award winning '70 GT-350 would be really great. I will send you my email address via private message.

To everyone else-

If anyone has an answer to the other questions from my original message please be sure to post an answer. I am sure it is info that a lot of other owners can use in their own restoration.