67 Shelby junction block

Mark, it was great for you to supply a picture. I was wondering if under your early style junction block do you have the insulating wafer board? I couldn't tell from the photo.

 

Yes, it is there....

Mark

PS..Bob, I met you in Nashville at SAAC a couple of years ago, you told me to call Steve Emmert about an early grill, if you remember, thanks for the advice!!!

 

Mark,
Thanks for the photos. Both of my wires are red, so I will be changing the one to black now. I've got that that thin wafer board under the junction block too, didn't even know it was there until Bob mentioned it.

Randy
________
67 Gt350 #0031
70 Boss 302 Grabber Green project

 

For those reading this post and want to know what we are referring to,on the early 67 Shelby gray double eared terminal block, a insulating piece of fiber circuit board material is mounted under the block to insulate the threaded stud that the amp gauge wires are connected to on the top side and which is completely exposed on the bottom side. If that junction block is not insulated it would very likely ground out against the metal apron through the thin paint and cause a catastrophic electrical fire. I was just checking so none of our friends in Shelby's would have a bad problem. It was a bad design and I am glad the engineers changed it for the Lincoln terminal block .

 

What do I use for the grommet where the red & white wires come through the firewall hole?

Randy
_______
67 GT350 #0031
70 Boss 302 Grabber Green project

 

Jim,the junction block Branda sells is correct for your car.It is a excellent repro .Once mounted it looks identical. It dosn't need the thin insulating wafer board underneath because it is a better design. Only the early cars that have the gray double ear junction block need to use the insulator under it. If you can't find yours or it is damaged in any way I wouldn't hesitate to use the Branda one.The best of luck with your project.

 

rcgt350..
I believe it's just a normal gromet, from hardware store....
The oil pressure line also passed thru this opening, try to extend the spiral wrap thru this opening also, high amps going thru these wires, need all the insulation, you can get!!
Might add a little black silicone on the back side, to help seal it...

Mark

 

Does anyone recall what type of connector was used at the gauge end of the red & black wires? Just took mine off to replace the one red wire with a black one and these have a heavy duty 90 degree connector crimped on them. Looks like it's the only way to fit them in there. I only have a nut holding the gauge to the ralley pack bracket, is that right? Randy

 

The harness ends at the solonoid and junction block appear to have been modified at some time in the past. The insulator on the terminal end are normally yellow on both but still would have a large diameter end to easily go over the solonoid post. The yellow color indicates which size crimp terminal was used on the 10 gauge wire used. The red wire goes on the solonoid and the black on the junction block. The amp gauge harness shares the same hole through the firewall as the oil pressure line. I hope this helps.

 

The wires and oil line line had been replaced on the car in the picture but the location is what you needed. I hope this helps.