'66 GT 350 flywheel- clutch question

I installed a T-5 5 speed in my GT coupe (obviously not a Shelby, but all applies to a '66 Shelby). I bought a billet steel 157 tooth, 28 ounce imbalance flywheel drilled for a 10.5" clutch. The '66 clutch is 10", the 10.5" is the more modern clutch for the 5.0L Mustangs. I'm assuming your engine is either original or period correct (i.e. older than 1981 and hence uses 28 ounce imbalance rather than 50 ounce for the 1981 and newer 302's). The bellhousing style you use will also drive your clutch choice. Original style bellhousing has the release fork pivot on the drivers side (it's pushed by the linkage), but requires a spacer plate between the tranny and the bellhousing because it's input shaft is 3/4" longer. 5.0L style bellhousing pivots on the passenger side (it's pulled by a cable). The stroke of the throw out bearing is different depending on the pivot point, so if you're running a modern bellhousing/scatter shield, you probably want to run a 10.5" clutch. If you're running an old style bellhousing/scattershield, you probably want to stick with the 10" clutch. Of course if you're running a hydraulic throw out bearing in lieu of linkage, then scratch that. I didn't like the design of any of the kits designed to convert the regular pedal linkage to a cable setup, especially if you're talking about a real '66 GT350. Too much stress on the firewall. Some require welding to the clutch pedal.

Personally, I'm running the following:

157 tooth billet steel flywheel with 28 ounce imbalance, drilled for 10.5" clutch
10.5" diaphragm style clutch (I like the centerforce, but some people state problems)
T-5 style scattershield
Hydraulic linkage (slave cylinder mounts to T-5 and pushes release fork from rear of car - effectively pulling it like the cable)

I really like the hydraulic clutch linkage setup I have, but unfortunately the company that made it went out of business.

Hope that helps,
Josh

 

In my 67 GT350 I'm doing much the same thing. Centerforce steel 157-tooth flywheel (28 oz) with the 10.4" (late model) clutch pattern. Centerforce dual friction clutch. Mcleod scatter shield. Original z-bar clutch linkage BUT the clutch pedal support has been rollerized and I have heim-jointed upper and lower clutch rods. Great pedal feel with no slop at all.

Got the scattershield from Modern Driveline. Had to install the old style fulcrum so I could run my original clutch arm. Because the scattershield is the proper length there was no need for me to run a spacer plate - tranny bolts directly to the scattershield and the shifter is in the proper place.

 

67200F5A02206,

Could you post some info regarding the "rollerized" clutch pedal support and the heim-jointed clutch rods? I'd like to do the same thing. Thanks.

 

I did the rollerized clutch pedal in my 66 fastback also. I used the Mustang Steve kit in the link below. However, I also used his cable linkage kit with a FRPP blowproof bellhousing and a T-5.


http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html

 

My first car was a 70 Fastback with Boss 302 stripes (that was about 1984) the car has seen so many miles that the rod was eaten away, I had gone thorugh alot with that car, I used American Mustang in Ranch Cordova for the rollerized pedal support, I think its well worth the trouble of taking the dash apart, much smoother operation and I love the Centerforce Dual Friction clutches, it took a little while to get used to the light feel of the clutch after having a pretty heavy McLoead in there!