Since my car is in the body shop getting straightened out and painted, I purchased the Master Body Bolt Kit from Branda. I'll keep all the original bolts since I never throw anything away. But, are the door hinge bolts the only ones that are painted the body color? Any other experiences/advice with using this kit? Thanks, Ken
The doors and decklid were installed before factory paint. Nothing else. Not the fenders or hood, or etc.
As mentioned the trunk lid and doors were in place (with hinges & bolts) when the car was painted. The rear valance was also on the car at that time also - hung with only two of the mounting screws. By hanging this way the paint was allowed to wrap around the rear edges of the quarter panel and the ends of the valance Yes if your restoring the car keep and use any of the original bolts you can where the reproductions do not match. You will often find 20% or more (depending on when and where the car was built) of these hardware kits different from what was originally use.
Also the the bolt securing each of the two rear bumper guard brackets. The rear bumper guard bracket was mounted to the unibody before paint and the bolt securing it would be exposed in the trunk during the painting process. Bob
+1 opps forgot that (busy working on another six posts - guess I should focus on one Also forgot the quarter extensions (end caps). There were attached but spaced reward slightly. Once the car was painted they were removed and reinstalled in their final configuration
Thanks. That explains why the rubber mount at the center of the trunk spring is painted. Sure would be nice to see a video of the painting/assembly process, besides that old music video by ?? So, I would assume the trunk and the inside of the truck lid were painted, then the trunk lowered down to an almost closed position. And the interior was painted while the dash, A-pillars, and door insides were masked off, then doors were closed to almost closed position. I guess without the bumpers on the truck lid and doors, they would probably appear to be closed all the way. Mask off the cowl/front unibody somewhat, then off to the final finish to the outside. Sorry, I'm just trying to visualize the process to get similar results...
Yes but then (like the other) you might have it taken at a different plant, different year ....... Think we have plenty of documentation that indicates a pretty clear picture. Also the center of the dash (around the speaker/defroster area) would have been masked off. The bottom of the A pillar masking extended typically, about 4-5 inches and the center of the doors was not masked off so they may have (IMHO) had a precut mask. Remember that the bottom of the door (interior side) was not masked off to the weatherstrip channel They may have had a small apparatus that held the door and trunk slightly opened. I remember these being available and I think they are shown in at least one factory shot Originally the fireall forward would not have been masked off. Any paint applied there (body color) would have been covered by the engine compartment and front wheel well black. After all of that you get to do the black outs on the pinchweld, lower frill bar and the air extractors if its a 65
Jeff, I searched the site for some pics of the blacked out pinch weld, but came up empty, or the picture links were broken. Any chance of posting a picture and best way to duplicate the factory process for a typical Nov 65 San Jose white car. Thanks! Ken
First (if your going to apply the black out I hope that the car is disassembled and can be raised to a height that will make this a comfortable task. You can use a spray gun or a rattle cans but the problem of rattle cans is that it will produce too narrow of a pattern to make the over spray unbelievable (small narrow areas of paint) so you have to make allot of passes and blend allot. Most use a process called backwards masking where the paper withe tape along the edge is attached about where you want the paint to stop on the bottom of the rocker or quarter panel then you bend (not fold) the paper back away from where you will be painting and attach it to the body to keep it out of the way. By doing it this way you will get a "soft" paint edge like what was originally produced rather than a sharp taped edge. This "edge" is typically about 3/4" outward from the pinch weld lip - on the bottom of the rocker and quarter panel The application of paint is at about 30 degrees from the flat surface of the floor pans and over spray would have traveled to the floor pan (feathering away as you move towards the tunnel) and hit any panel that hung down from the floor pan such as torque boxes (on later cars) frame rails and rear spring mount on the front. Often the painter would keep the paint flowing at the end or the beginning of the pass so we can see some overspray at the forward or rear lower edge of the rear wheel well Almost forgot - this was all done before the front fender was installed. Here are some shots - remember for the pictures of the original cars some of the finer oversprays have worn away over the years. Hope this helps Note have seen the body color over spray almost all the way (light and tapering off from about 2 ft in from the rockers) in to the tunnel. Other times only half way or less
Thanks Jeff, appreciate your expertise and pics. That last photo was odd with that control arm beneath the back end of the leaf spring. Never seen that before... Ken.
Just 66 style under riders installed rearward, Seen a couple of guys with them that way back in the day. The rear of the car tends to rise a little when you get on the throttle hard this way Sorry about posting the pictures here - should have posted them on a new thread -
I assume that the trunk and the truck was coated, and then in the trunk down to almost closed position. And Minister of the Interior was painted while the dash, pillars, doors inside are not clear, and then the door was closed, almost closed position. I do not think the lid on the truck bumper, door, they may seem the way closed.
Same here. Thanks Bob. Totally forgot about the bolt of the two rear bumper guard brackets. I am also experiencing a hard time with this kit.