T-pan mounting bolts

I think I did the same thing on my old 1966 Mustang GT, I just thought maybe there was a better way short of pulling the engine.

Ron

 

The motor mounts do not need to be touched. I have always removed the crossmember and dropped the steering linkage on the passenger side of the car. There are two bolts that hold the idler arm post to the frame. The starter will also have to be removed. That should give you enough clearence to remove your old pan and install the Cobra aluminum T pan. Also, make sure the entire car is on jackstands about 2 feet in the air, (easier to move around on a creeper) and let the block drip for a day before cleaning the block and installing new gaskets and seals. Your new aluminum pan is quite a bit heavier than a steel oil pan, so it helps to have as much room to work underneath as possible (unless you have access to a lift.
Joe

 

Joe,

Thanks for the advice, it sounds very doable and I will let you know how it turns out (probably in about 3 weeks).

Ron

 

Any recommendation for gaskets and gasket sealer? Along time ago Permatex (?) was used but I thought maybe something better has hit the market. I have not worked on cars to this level in 25 years so I am sure much has changed on the automotive front.

Ron

 

Felpro makes a one-piece gasket that works great for the T-pan. There are two versions - one for the old style steel pans (the ones with the ribs on the gasket surface) and one for late model 302s (smooth gasket surface). Get the one for the late models. You do not have to use any sealer at all except for a little silicone at the corners of the "U". They are reusable if you have to remove the pan again. They have metal reinforcements in the mounting holes so that you cannot overtighten them.

 

Are these available at the local auto parts (Advance, Auto Zone, etc)?

 

A part number would be great.

I bought the Cobra oil pan yesterday from John's Mustang here in Houston, strange thing was he did not have a oil drain plug, told me to get one at the auto parts and what he describe sounded like a pipe plug type fitting (tapered threads instead of straight threads with a gasket).

Does this sound right?

Also the only pan bolts he had was the 4 hex and the rest phillip head (like for a 1965) but the package says "1965 and 1966", I guess I will use them but he is selling the right stuff? Anyone else use John's Mustang and what is your overall impression?

 

I agree, the guy where I bought it said I needed a plug with internal hex and it would be flush to the bottom of the pan, no gasket, no head on the plug. Being oilfield trash I thought NPT but other companies that sell the same pan all have conventional looking drain plugs. The pan has a sticker saying it is licensed by Ford for whatever that is worth.

Before I start disassembling of the car I want to make sure I have to many surprizes.

 

I have been a customer of John's Mustang for over 20 years. He is a real tightwad and you have to be careful. He tried to sell me an obviously used Cobra T-pan for new pan prices. Even though I have bought thousands of dollars worth of stuff from him he never gives me a break. I buy from anyone else first unless I need the part right away or it is something that I want to inspect first (like a hood).

Some examples. (1) I bought some stuff and it was $80.16. Gave him a hundred. Gave me back $19.84. As good a customer as I have been you think he could have just given me a twenty. (2) I wanted a Ford Tooling hood. Told him I was not buying it unless he opened the box. He was very reluctant. Hood had a bent corner and he tried to convince me to take it because it would be easy to fix. Told him I was paying for NEW stuff, not scratch and dent. (3) This was very recently. I bought some spring shackles (a $20 item). Got them installed and found out the threads were defective and the nut would not tighten (should have checked them first). Took them back and showed them to his wife. She insinuated that I was the one that damaged them. I was pretty pissed. There were about six other customers in there so I (loudly) said that I had bought thousands of dollars of stuff from them and I did not appreciate being told I was a liar over a stinking $20 part. She caved at that point.

 

I took the oil pan down to the auto parts and it is a straight thread (1/2"-20) so the information from John's Mustang was incorrect. I also picked up the Fel-Pro oil pan gasket kit, one piece with the metal around the holes just as described. The part number is 0S 13260 T in case anyone else needs one.

 

I am finding the same thing, you have to check the parts over very carefully for defects. I think I will be buying from another vendor from now on unless it is something simple or I need it right then. Thanks for the input.