Pie Charts Thanks for all the replies . The more input the better. I'm just hoping we don't have to pull the heads but in the end it is what it is. I have never had a Windsor apart so I'm not too sure of the headgasket placement . I will install a mechanical gauge first to check the accuracy of the factory gauge. 1. we are running about 50/50 water to coolant with water wetter 2. the car has the stock 4 blade fan , no clutch, with factory fan shroud. The fan doesn't seem to be able to mount backwards without being obvious (great question) 3. the car has one of those repo Autolite radiator caps . 4. The car has actually never boiled over it just seems to run hot. I used a laser thermo-scanner to come up with the temp readings. 205 at the water pump.190 at the intake (coolant runner),300 at the head 5 manual trans car, this car was a 2V 351W, we reused everything(main motor parts) except the intake and carb. We were told the 2V heads were the same as the 4V heads. Autolite carb is the correct one for a stock 4V 69 351W car. Car is now a dual exhaust car. 6 car has a new sending unit,radiator,car,shroud,water pump,gauges were restored , 7 harmonic balancer is very difficult to read, I believe we have it set to 6 degrees BTC.I know a car can run hot if the timing is set wrong. This car runs Ok not 100%, little sluggish at low RPM but good in the higher RPM range. Thanks again.Olaf
Pie ChartsOlaf- I've found that, if you just set the timing by turning the distributor body until you get the best, smoothest idle, it's far better than using a timing light. Also, I know this is a really stupid thing to ask you, but, are you sure you've routed the wires from the distributor to the plugs correctly? Windsors are different than 289's Regards, Stan ----- Original Message ----- From: Olaf Herrick To: shelby list Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 9:42 PM Subject: More info on running hot problem Thanks for all the replies . The more input the better. I'm just hoping we don't have to pull the heads but in the end it is what it is. I have never had a Windsor apart so I'm not too sure of the headgasket placement . I will install a mechanical gauge first to check the accuracy of the factory gauge. 1. we are running about 50/50 water to coolant with water wetter 2. the car has the stock 4 blade fan , no clutch, with factory fan shroud. The fan doesn't seem to be able to mount backwards without being obvious (great question) 3. the car has one of those repo Autolite radiator caps . 4. The car has actually never boiled over it just seems to run hot. I used a laser thermo-scanner to come up with the temp readings. 205 at the water pump.190 at the intake (coolant runner),300 at the head 5 manual trans car, this car was a 2V 351W, we reused everything(main motor parts) except the intake and carb. We were told the 2V heads were the same as the 4V heads. Autolite carb is the correct one for a stock 4V 69 351W car. Car is now a dual exhaust car. 6 car has a new sending unit,radiator,car,shroud,water pump,gauges were restored , 7 harmonic balancer is very difficult to read, I believe we have it set to 6 degrees BTC.I know a car can run hot if the timing is set wrong. This car runs Ok not 100%, little sluggish at low RPM but good in the higher RPM range. Thanks again.Olaf
You should check to see if your fuel mixure is too lean also. I had a similar problem one day and it turned out to be the seal of the radiator cap went bad. I might try another radiator cap if you have one. Usually timing or fuel mixture are the two issues once you have ruled out the cooling system itself. Lee 66 # 869 69 # 2055
Pie ChartsI would try the timing a little higher, low timing will make one run hot, after that everyone has covered the bases, most fresh engines will run a little warm at first, if it keeps getting hot make sure you don`t have a air pocket, fill the engine through the upper water hose, I have had this to happen several times, lately on a flat head. after that you have a blockage or head gasket problems,----- Original Message ----- From: Olaf Herrick To: shelby list Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 9:42 PM Subject: More info on running hot problem Thanks for all the replies . The more input the better. I'm just hoping we don't have to pull the heads but in the end it is what it is. I have never had a Windsor apart so I'm not too sure of the headgasket placement . I will install a mechanical gauge first to check the accuracy of the factory gauge. 1. we are running about 50/50 water to coolant with water wetter 2. the car has the stock 4 blade fan , no clutch, with factory fan shroud. The fan doesn't seem to be able to mount backwards without being obvious (great question) 3. the car has one of those repo Autolite radiator caps . 4. The car has actually never boiled over it just seems to run hot. I used a laser thermo-scanner to come up with the temp readings. 205 at the water pump.190 at the intake (coolant runner),300 at the head 5 manual trans car, this car was a 2V 351W, we reused everything(main motor parts) except the intake and carb. We were told the 2V heads were the same as the 4V heads. Autolite carb is the correct one for a stock 4V 69 351W car. Car is now a dual exhaust car. 6 car has a new sending unit,radiator,car,shroud,water pump,gauges were restored , 7 harmonic balancer is very difficult to read, I believe we have it set to 6 degrees BTC.I know a car can run hot if the timing is set wrong. This car runs Ok not 100%, little sluggish at low RPM but good in the higher RPM range. Thanks again.Olaf
