anyone rebuilding fan clutches???

Fred Olivia is the only one I know of that does him. Good news is he does a fantastic job. Bad news is (from people I know that have used him) he takes about a year to get them back and he won't respond to communication while working on it. I would recommend getting an over the counter part to use your car for a year and let him do his thing.
Tim
http://www.gate.net/~foliva/

 

There are NOS C8OE clutches out there, probably around $300. Email me if you want some leads.
Tim

 

Shelby Chris
I was having the problems with my KR overheating also due to the fan clutch. I bought one at NAPA, Part # 273325. I was told it wouldn't fit but it does. You loose a little space between the clutch and the radiator but it works.
Good Luck
Ranger Jerry

 

Stant makes a fan clutch that will work on a 68.5 Cobra Jet. Part #FC511.

 

If these clutches can be rebuilt, couldn't it be done by any reasonably competant mechanic?

Does anyone know what has to be done to rebuild one? Mine is behaving the same way - gradual increase in temperature, and loose even when warm.

I'm in England, so getting a replacement part is not so easy - any ideas on how to rebuild would be greatfully recieved.

Thanks

 

Its not so much of rebuild as restore. I've heard of people refilling the hydra
ulic oil but most people are looking to return them to looking as original with correct plating etc.
Tim

 

Had another look at my fan today. I took it off the car and saw that it has what looks like a small clock spring on the front face (see picture). I assume this is some kind of bi-metal strip which winds up when it gets warm air off the back face of the radiator. As it winds, it turns a small spindle in the center of the clutch.

I removed the spring, and tried setting the spindle at each end of its rotary travel (using a screwdriver). However, this seemed to have no effect whatsoever on the torque to turn the fan on the main drive spindle.

I also noticed that there does not appear to be any way of getting into the clutch body without damageing the cast alloy casing.

Does anyone have any ideas on this?

For the record, the part number on each of the five fan blades is H C5OE-A, and the part number on the drive spindle flange is E-C6OE-G. I am virtually certain that these are original parts fitted to Z67202F8A02751. The third pulley you can see in the assembled picture was for the California thermactor pump (removed but carefully stored).

Any ideas for repairs much appreciated.

 

Just in case anyone's interested, have a look at this -

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/FanClutch.html

Not a shelby part, but virtually identical - probably the same manufacturer.

 

Having read the article linked in my post above, and thinking back to the little test I did with the screwdriver on the spindle, I see now that this would not have had any effect on how much torque was required to turn the fan, because the clutch needs the centrifugal force when rotating at engine speed to force the hydraulic oil into the clutch to lock it up.

I did notice that when I first removed the 'clock-spring' and turned the little spindle, it seemed a little tight at first, but loosened up with a few turns.

The fan is back on the car now, and I drove it about 4 miles in 90 degree ambient heat at low speed (through the back lanes), and the temp gauge went just over half way up - result!

I think that freeing up the little spindle at the front allowed the hydraulic valve inside work, making the clutch work. Maybe you could try this with yours before you pay out for a rebuild.

Good luck!