Trouble shifting, need help. 66GT350

I would unhook the linkage and try to move the shifting levers. They should move forward, then back to center then to the back and then back to the center point. Ford shifters lock up often, but this sounds like a trans problem to me.

 

Did you fill your transmission with motor oil as you suggested in your last post...?

Skid.

 

The advice to remove the levers and then try shifting will pinpoint the problem. As you move the transmission through the gears turn the driveshaft as it makes the gears easier to engage. If the shifter is the problem the check the levers on the transmission for worn holes or bad bushing same on the shifter end of rods. Ford shifter units are available rebuilt and use your shift rods and shift handle. I don't know what to do if its a Hurst other than replace the whole unit. Shifters usually don't make a noise. You may find a internal problem with the transmission like bad needle bearings in the imput shaft, bad input shaft bearing, output shaft nose or bearing, or a broken gear jamming the works. I hope this helps some.

 

Check for a bad motor or tranny mount. The torque can cause the motor/tranny to move around and cause a binding condition. Also could be a loose pilot shaft bushing (in the back of the crank). Or bad shifter linkage.

 

Probably a very dark green. Not like anti freeze green, is it? A small amount of metallica (lack of a better term) is ok to find on the magnet.

Be sure to refill with 80/90W hypoid lube, NOT motor oil.

 

Is this a toploader or a borg warner?
jimbo

 

Sometimes things get changed for good reasons. If it is the BW tranny... good advise would be to take it out and put it in a plastic bag (keep it with the car stuff).. save all the nuts and bolts.. put in a T5 ... it is the best upgrade you can do for these cars. 55 mph 2000 rpm.. in 5th gear. To do the mod you don't have to cut anything or remove anything .. you could conceveably change it back if you wanted to.

On the other hand if it is a toploader it is already the wrong tranny so take it out and put in a T5

you see where this is going.
jimbo

 

Jim - is that right that NO '65 or '66 shelbys had toploaders?

The reason I ask is that I used to own a '65 k-code fastback (not shelby) that was built with a toploader in it at the San Jose facility. Could a similar car have been KD'd and sent to Shelby?

 

I owned an A code 65 coupe (San Jose plant) that came with a toploader. As far as I know though no 65 65 shelbys had them.. (unless the owner put it in after that silly BW (4 forward speeds, 1 reverse, 8 neutrals) wore out.
jimbo

 

Jim Cowles at shelbyparts.com can do it

Z. Ray
6s1117

 

In my experience, that is what happend to a great many of them. We bought a couple of the aluminuim T10's back in "the day" that were removed becuse they were failing, and many years later sold them for what we thought were pretty hefty amounts, of course less than they go for today.

 

Ed
In years past the Borg Warner was known to have broken blocking rings in the syncronizers (usually from speed shifting) and just looking at them through the inspection plate you can't see them cracked. They will open up during shifting and jam up the shifting. This may cause a grinding occasionally but if you can find the best Rpm to shift they'll seem to work better. Another way to tell if they are cracked is the transmission will jump out of gear during deceleration. Do you know how to double clutch? A trick from driving heavy equipment, If you double clutch during shifting the syncronizers will line up better and shift more smoothly. Its not the best if you want to race your friend and win but if they anoy you enough you'll be double clutching or tearing your transmission apart to fix those blocking rings. There are good suggestions in previous replys so I guess you have checked what they recommended and still have a problem. The only thing else I could suggest is make sure your clutch is adjusted properly to allow the pressure plate to completely be free from the thowout bearing. If the bearing is riding the forks of the pressure plate the clutch won't properly engage the clutch disc causing symptoms you are speaking of. Make sure you have about one inch of free pedal travel on the clutch. This will tell you if the bearing is properly adjusted.