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'66 hood and '67 roll bar questions

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by 56ace, Nov 4, 2006.

  1. 56ace

    56ace Well-Known Member

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    I was cleaning out the garage and pulled out a '66 GT350 hood I bought many years as an original, and was wondering if there is a way to tell if it really is an original. My car has a steel hood and I was going to change to the fiberglass, but probably will not do it if the hood is a repro. My second question is about recoating a '67 (at least I think it is a '67) roll bar. It came installed in my '66 when I bought it, but there is a 4" section of the rubber in the center area that the PO cut out to attach a roll bar extension to. Does anyone know if the rubber can be replaced on the roll bar or is the damage un repairable? I removed the roll bar many years ago, and will probably sell it, but wanted to know if it is just a piece of junk or salvageable.
    Thanks,
    Jay
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2006
  2. GT350-66s

    GT350-66s Member

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    Hi Jay

    Just wondering why you want to change hoods. I have a feeling why, if thats an all steel hood on your 66...? Is the steel hood in good shape? Will it be for sale if and when you switch to the glass?.... Just kidding Jay. I know how you feel these days driving down the road with an all steel hood. With as many places that manufactured these years ago, you think there would be some repop's by now. -Gary
     
  3. eljimb0

    eljimb0 Well-Known Member

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    If I read your question correctly.. You want to know if a "fiberglass" hood you have.... which is seperate from your car, is a real or original hood.
    If you could post a clear photo of the underside of the hood someone here could give you an answer. Here are some clues. For a 66 the framework (under the fiberglass) should be metal .. if you look it over real well you should be able to find stamped numbers somewhere in the metal... possibly date code type numbers.. The fiberglass itself will be a woven cloth type rather than the matted fiber type.. This is not in itself conclusive.. Anything can be repo-ed
    Also: If you have an all steel hood with the scoop.. that is a cool part. I would use that one because it is the hardest one to fake..
    Also: if you have lots of people trying to take it off you hands cheaply... and doing you a favor in the process.... it is probably real.. It is the nature of the beast.
    Good luck,
    jimbo
     
  4. 56ace

    56ace Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the question is how can I tell if the fiberglass hood I have which is not on my car (6s081) an original or repop. My understanding was that there were 3 different versions of the hood for '66, 1 all steel (like came on my car when I bought it), 1 all fiberglass (like the one I bought many years ago), and 1 with steel frame, but fiberglass top. As for why I may want to change, it is strictly due to weight. I vintage raced the car in the past and may finally getting to the point of having time to do it again. If I do go back to the track, every weight savings helps. If I do decide to change the hood over I will not be selling the original as I try to keep everything that I take off the car including the original brake shoes/pads, wood steering wheel, Aluminum T10, torque arm covers, etc. I'll try to get a pic of the underside of the fiberglass hood and post it if that will help with the ID.
    Thanks,
    Jay
     
  5. roddster

    roddster Well-Known Member

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    Rollbar padding reply: As far as that goes, I've seen other postings on the VMF (Vintage-Mustang Forum) asking about this. Seems there is nobody who repads the entire bar. It might be because the padding seems to have come out of a mould rather than a spray on or dip on pad.

    So, somebody with a bankroll would need to research who the original supplier is/was (likley in southern California). As in maybe there is a trade mark or patent on the stuff. Find out if they still have the mould. Find out if they are willing to make maybe 200 sets. Make sure they have exactly the same rubber-like covering available because no one will spend big money on incorrect junk.
     

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