Anyone who can explain or have some pics showing, how the Mico was connected to the brakes? It's the single output on the Mico that make me wonder. The stock MC have 2 lines out, with a residual valve in the output for the rear drums. As far as I know the Mico used on the GT350H had a residual inside and normally residual valves and disc's don't work together, or? Also the pics I have seen showing Mico's in Hertz cars, a lot of them looks to have a bleeder valve on the top of the master, but some don't? Any explaination? The reason for my questions is that I have a Mico in the garage that I want to test on my 65' Mustang. :blush: ...sadly a real Shelby is way to expensive.
The 65-66 had a single line output from the standard master cylinder so it connects as such Also the pics I have seen showing Mico's in Hertz cars, a lot of them looks to have a bleeder valve on the top of the master, but some don't? Any explaination? ([/QUOTE] Don't know what you are describing as a "bleeder valve" All the ones I've see has a transverse line from the front cylinder to the output. Guess it reduces the effort and maximizes the output volume
Only with all drums! With disc's in front, the stock MC had two outputs. But I have a old SAAC magazine (#56) showing a Mico master with a tee fitting monted in the front. So wondered if Shelby just run the disc's through the residual valve, because theoretically that shouldn't work? Yes the line outside the Mico are for a valve inside that "lock" the piston and make a smaller piston inside that one make the higher pressure. But most pics I have found shows a tee-fitting where the line goes in on the top of the master with whats looks like a bleeder valve on top. But the article in that old SAAC magazine shows no tee? And some cars also looks like they they run without one. So I wondered if there was problems with trapped air in the line without the bleeder. Because that line are the highest point of the brake system. I read that Shelby had a some problems making all the Mico's work correctly, and that was the reason not all Hertz car got one mounted. So maybe there are made some difference between the cars. I know the Mico is rare, but I just hoped that someone on a real Shelby-forum had a little knowledge or just a good picture. Playning with brakes and brake fluid to find out what works and what don't, ain't no fun. My car and the Mico:
Sorry you are correct about the dual lines... must have been tired as I don't know why I responded with that response "but I just hoped that someone on a real Shelby-forum had a little knowledge or just a good picture. ' Boy with tact like that you must be frustrated. Might not hold my breath for a response after that comment .
Not quite sure I understud that! Did I wrote something that you read as negative? If, Sorry that was not my intention. I nomally don't write in (or speak) english, so it's a little difficult for me. I'm writing from Europe. I just have to do the homework my self, and make some tests to find out how to get the Mico work right. Just hoped for a little shotcut asking in here, where people talk about Shelby cars.
Westmus, I'll take a picture or two of our GT350H when I get back over to my dad's house in about a week or so and post it. It has the Mico MC and which I rebuilt shortly after we bought the car (twenty-nine years ago!).
Westmus, Finally got over to my dad's place yesterday and took the following pictures. We've had the car (SFM6S817) since 1978 when they were still affordable for the average enthusiast. I believe that the brake system is original. I rebuilt the MC about a year after we bought the car. Note the routing of the lines from the "T" fitting in the front of the MC. The front port feeds the front brake fitting that splits to the left and right brakes and the rear port is routed to the proportioning valve. Bleeder valve on top of the MC is visible in this picture as is the rear brake proportioning valve below and to the right of the MC. I wiped down the fittings and brake lines for this shot. The coloration of the blue anodized "nut" below the bleeder is more apparent here. The number "704" on the flat pad in front of the MC can just be made out in this shot. As I recall the entire number was "704B1". Line routing is a little clearer in this picture. This is not a pristine show car and restoration in the engine compartment is very much needed. Blowing a water pump doesn't help and can do some nasty things. But it is mostly original except for those wear-and-tear items that have been replaced over the years. A restoration is planned for the future, but who knows when that will happen.
Westmus, If I were you, I wouldn't use an original Mico on a Mustang but sell it to a 66 Shelby GT350H owner that really needed one. A friend of mine here in Texas with an original GT350H bought a NOS Mico for about $400 a couple of years ago. Also, do you have the specific bracket that the Mico mounts to? If you decide to put it on your car, please infom us about the results. Denmark is a very nice country with very nice people. Have been there twice (Lokken) with my red and white 67 Shelby together with my friends in the Swedish "The Club of American Ford". During the world championship in soccer in 2002 my car was cheered on due to the red with white stripes. Best of luck to you. Texas Swede
Just what I was looking for. I really appreciate your effort. THANKS again! That the car is not completely restored just make it more interesting. It's still the way Shelby did it. Great pictures of a rare Shelby detail, not shown in any books I think and only found on a few cars.
It's not a original number Mico I have, but the correct replacement according to my old SAAC magazine (Mico#03-020-455). Got it new last year from Mico through www.bscparts.com and payed about 250$ for it. I have a picture of the original bracket and vil make my own. I know an common booster would be an eazy and cheap route, but I like doing things a little different. I'm also anxious to know how big difference a Mico make. But the only way to know was to buy one and try it. Some calculations I made says it's something like 2/3 of the stock pedal pressure. I vill let you know if it was a succes or a ... Texas swede: Løkken is 2 hours north of me. I'm living at the west coast. In Denmark I know of 4 real Shelby Mustangs, two 67' GT500, a 69' GT350 and a 65' used only for historic racing. And at least one real 289" AC Cobra. I know a guy who has a original 71' 429 SCJ cab ...one of 8 made! This one is a project and was sold new in Sweden.
Since we are on the subject, I managed to locate some part numbers that are related to the Mico master cylinder installation: | S2MS 2140-A | Qty 1 | CYLINDER ASSEMBLY – BRAKE MASTER (Almico Piggy Back) | S2MS 2144-A | Qty 1 | BRACKET – BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING (Almico Piggy Back) | S2MS 2145-A | Qty 2 | BOLT (3/8-16 X 7/8 with 7/16 Head) | S2MS 7584-A | Qty 1 | BRACKET – BRAKE PEDAL STOP I hope this is of interest.
Wish I had my old one to look at but some idiot in my family threw it out. I took it off SFM1015 about 1981 and replaced it with the standard dics brake master cylinder. They thought it was an old worthless auto part because it was dull and greasy. Some people just don't understand.
The Shelby GT350H Add and delete area does not mention anything about the Master Cylinder so it would be the same as a 390 disc anchor Mustang. The GT350H would be the same as a 289hp disc anchor Mustang.
If you have access to a 66 add delete sheet from a group of Hertx cars would love to see a copy Sure your not looking at 67 add/delete sheets?? Of course the add/delete sheets would not show what Shelby installed at that time only what was suppose to be done at San Jose