I think the purpose of the limiting cables as to keep the shocks from extending too far and to keep the over ride traction bars from binoff the floor pans when the axle housing drops. Perhaps Colin's cables have stretched or been replaced with incorrect ones. Lee Mathias > > From: Robert Gaines <bgaines@kc.rr.com> > Date: 2005/03/14 Mon PM 10:18:01 EST > To: STAN SIMM <SSIMM@triad.rr.com> > CC: Colin Comer <colin@colinsclassicauto.com>, shelbymustang@carmemories.com > Subject: Re: 65 GT350 suspension question > > Colin, Stan is correct that all 65/66 Hipo+Shelby had the bracket with > the snubber. As for the shocks I the have never noticed the Koni shocks > shocks travel ending before the limiting cables Check the travel on the > shocks and the travel on the cables and let us know on each. Bob G. > On Monday, March 14, 2005, at 08:50 PM, STAN SIMM wrote: > > > Colin-FWIW, 5S071 does have a bracket and snubber. All '65 and '66 HiPo > > Mustangs came w/them on the 9" rears. > > Regards, Stan > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Colin Comer > > To: shelbymustang@carmemories.com > > Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:02 PM > > Subject: 65 GT350 suspension question > > > > Guys- > > Here is what may sound like a stupid question (please forgive): Do 65 > > GT 350's have a rear axle pinion snubber, as on 66's ? I was told today > > that they should not have one, and I have seen them both with and > > without. I am referring to the bracket and snubber attached to the > > third member bolts on the rear end. > > > > Also, has anybody had any experience with Koni shocks being too short > > for the rear suspension? The shocks top out before the suspension does, > > and long before the limit cables do. This would seem to upset the > > chassis in a hard turn. I know the limiting cables were a bad idea from > > the beginning. As silly as it sounds, I am actually trying to prep #144 > > to drive - and as such am trying to make the suspension "work" while > > still looking stock. > > > > I was contemplating making some billet spacers on the lathe for the top > > of the rear shocks (hidden) to give them an extra 1/2" of range while > > extending. This would let the suspension go full travel in both > > directions. In conjunction with this, I contemplated lengthening the > > limit cables as to still look stock but essentially stay out of the > > game, i.e., never picking up a wheel. > > > > Any ideas or tips? Again, I just want to dial the suspension in as best > > as possible and still have it look stock. The rear suspension is the > > last hurdle , but I think I am getting close! > > > > Thanks in advance, > > Colin > > > >
