Sealing Aluminum COBRA Oil Pans

do you already have this problem, or want to guard against it ever happening? My 41 year old Cobra oil pan hasn't leaking thru the pores yet. When can I expect this happen? Next year, or will it actually take a millennium to happen?

Z. Ray

 

No leaks on the small block pan on our '66 Hertz car. I believe that the FE pans are all aftermarket. I've never seen a factory part number for one.

 

Any cast aluminum part can weep oil through the pores in the material. It may be a problem with the casting process from that particular manuacturer. I have had sucess sealing a weepy cast aluminum Ford FE remote oil filter mount by coating the inner surfaces with Glyptol. Prior to sealing, the mount was oven baked to drive out any oil soaked in the pores and then cleaned in solvent to remove what remained. The surfaces were then scuffed with 280 grit sandpaper to provide surface "tooth" for the glyptol and cleaned again.
I ordered Glyptol from Eastwood Co.
-Geary

 

You can talk to Powder Coating Companies to see how well it will work to Power Coat just the INSIDE of the Oil Pan.
David.

 

Eric,
I own a powdercoating shop. It may be a good alternative but probably will cost more. Thats why I suggested the Glytol method for ease and cost. If you consider powdercoat, I would ask for an Epoxy Hybrid powder for it's chemical resistance and durablity. While a polyester powder may do a fine job the cost difference should be nominal for the hybrid.

-Geary

 

Hi Eric and all on this thread.As with any coating before it is applied it is the proper preparation that will make the difference.No matter what choice you make,the metal must be completely clean and oil free prior to any surface prep.or it will eventually fail to adhere.A strong detergent bath is one of the best ways to de grease,but it may be strong enough to streak the outside of the pan.I would be tempted to follow what Ford does and that is epoxy coat the inside.Although Gyptol is good and has been around a long time,it is just a form of enamel.Epoxy is much better and can be baked for maximum durability.Maybe the first step is to zyglo to look for and cracks,although they are sand cast,they should not have open pores.Have you considered a steel pan?They are lighter and large capacity pans are available from several different people.Shelby used Avaid pans on 65 R models.Just a thought.

 

Eric,

It is your car and that being the case, you get to do whatever you want with it. Just make the car the way you want it and enjoy it. Let those who want a concours restoration do their thing and you do yours. That's what makes this such a great hobby (OK, so its more than a hobby, you know what I'm talking about).

 

Eric - Patty is correct about proper prep of your oil pan. The only exception being that no amount of suface cleaning will drive oil out of the pores. It will require pre-baking and degreasing for powdercoat which is why some powder shops will shy away from a job like this. We have a custom shop so we have seen it all. The good, bad, and totally greasy. We've even done Candy Purple Engine Blocks for a Gentleman in Florida. (1966 383 Chysler Engine Image Included)

Thorough surface cleaning with akali detergents such as "Dawn" and/or solvent cleaning is generally all that is necessary for the Glyptol Treatment. -Geary

 

Eric, my personal opinion is to replace the oil pan. If for some reason the paint or powder coating were to come off and get over your oil pickup. It would be a shame to damage a 427 when a new pan at Branda is $350.00
Is it possible to put a clear sealer on the outside of the pan.
Kenny

 

Do they have clear powder coat? If so do the outside maybe.