66 GT350 Project

Wow, that is going to require a serious amount of work. I think there is a lot wrong that can't be seen, and if you were serious, go see it first before bidding.
There is a big difference between 65 & 66 values, and the advice you received previously is a good start, but keep in mind that whatever you THINK it will cost will most likely be less than what it actually costs.

IMHO, that is a lot of $ for that car, as with anything Shelby.

Mike

 

As was pointed out prior to my post, there is a huge difference in '65 GT350 prices vs. '66 prices. It could almost be double. I have seen a few nice '66 cars change hands for less than $150k, where a '65 GT350 is almost an automatic $200k for an operable car. I sold 6S1634 two years ago to get a
'65 GT350. A lot has happened in the last two years, but I sold my car for $40k, no enigine included. It was almost ready for paint, with all metal either replaced or original. It was almost perfect as far as the metal work.

One thought is that many people cannot or will not pay $100k+ for a done car, but can somehow trick themselves into thinking that if they buy a project car they will save money. There are more buyers out there chasing a project car at this price than buyers for a done car I think. More guys can afford $50-75K and try to work on the car over a time period.

I think it boils down to what you can do yourself, and most important, what you enjoy to do. I LOVE to tinker with and work on old cars. I cannot justify the time I spend, as I could go earn more money at my business and pay people to work on my stuff. I'm just ate up with this stuff

Bottom line: Unless you enjoy or are able to work on something yourself, I would very much consider a done car vs. a project. The instant you buy a done car you can enjoy it, and that is worth something!!

As far as this car, I would think maybe $50k? The problem I see with this car and many on e-bay is that the whole world will know that THIS car was rusted to bits and even if restored to perfection will have had 80% of the original metal replaced. They are only original once, and MAYBE this would be okay if the whole world did not know that everything was replaced.
I keep track of all #'s for '65 and '66 GT350's I see on E-bay. I know other people do the same thing.

I would buy the best of what I could afford. Rather than a second rate Shelby, why not buy a perfect Boss 302? That way in a down market you still have something that not everyboday can have.

You can tell I have thought about this...maybe a little too much...
MC

 

I think they are already past that number.

 

THe '65's would've been double about two years ago in 2005 when everything was at it's peak....there are more and more '65 350's appearing everyday out of the woodwork for 225 and under. Grant it - '66 350s are down as well, but the 100-150K plus disparity you speak of is only on double digit cars and well documented low mileage units. The advanced prototypes are, of course well beyond the 100-150K window....in short...the market is soft and cars are available for a better value now. I'm gonna bet the car goes for 75-80K when the auction is done.

 

Stay away from rusty cars like that? I truely believe some cars are more predisposed to rusting than others. Sure salt had something to do with it but Ive seen a rust bucket restored and the car still wanted to rust even being treated correctly and garaged... Maybe you can't get all that salt residue out of them and it keeps eating away.

 

Now that is what I call a rusty car :0 Just lucky the car has been stored inside for the last ten years or no telling how bad it would be now.

Bought and sold allot. And the above formula is what many use and I've used when trying to sell a car to the uneducated. For purchase (typical - not if I really want the car which is not that often) I use the same formula then divide the final number in half and that is what I offer. On a car like this another option is the total for all the parts I could sell quickly and divide that number in half.

You make all your money when you buy a car... as that is the only number you have control of

 

I've heard that $80k would cover the professional restoration of a '66 GT350 from practically any condition - even if the roof is the only thing good on the car. Since this car appears to be on the low end of the condition scale I'd subtract $80k from what you think the car will be worth when restored. Then knock 20% to 50% off that number to arrive at a ball park figure to bid.

The current bid appears to be $46,100 with almost 4 days left.

Using my formula, at the current bid, it would appear that someone thinks this car will be worth roughly $138k to $172k when restored.

Just my opinion.

Thank you to John76 for starting this thread and providing the link.

Steve

 

I am waiting to see a Reality Show on TV called "Flip This Car" where Non-Professhionals go out and Buy Classics like this to Restore themselves.......... It should be a blast to watch as they blow their Budgit and Time Line.......LOL.
David.

 

What a "rot box" - Any of the Shelby restores I know would not touch that thing with less then 100k, in cash (not including what is paid for the car) and no one worth their weight in salt would give you a "real" estimate on what it would/will take to fix that turd.

.......and yes, it is now a "marked" car and will be recorded in SAAC history as what you see on e bay.

How much metal needs to be replaced before the car is considered a "re-body"??

 

I know MOST of you will hate this BUT: If it can be bought cheap enough, it might be worth buying and waiting for Dynacorn to produce a new 1965/1966 Fastback Body.
David.

 

Now you really opened a can of worms.

 

I would think a carry-over car could pull a little more, as it has many '65 features. But is still ain't a '65

Did you guys see the added pic showing the export brace? I was not able to see the extra support welded to the firewall, were you?
It was added on top from what I remember...
Maybe it is there and I cannot see it. It must be; everything else looks 100%legit.

MC

 

Good Eye!

It is not there.
Who would ever suspect a fake in this condition? Hell! maybe the rust is fake rust.. what is the difference though.. If the number is real ...the car is real.. 100,000 dollars from now that car will be a brand new ..completly original Shelby!! (..low miles)

jimbo

 

I wanted to give the benefit of doubt, but I wonder...
He said there is no VIN under the Shleby tag. Where did it go?
Something is odd...
The traction bars look exactly right, the angle is welded to the frame, just like it should be.
It all looks right except for the export brace/firewall missing the extra support.
There is so little left it reall does not matter, What will be used from this car? The roof?

MC

 

If you look at the area between the Fender and the Shelby Tag, it looks like that is Bondo (painted black), that might be why he said there is no VIN under the Tag.
David

 

Take a mustang fastback, get the worst version of most of the right parts.
bolt it together and leave it outside in the rain. Splash a healthy dose of bleach on the places where the details would give it away.. Wait ten years then E-BAY it.
jimbo

(at least it's not a clone)

 

This thread has sparked my curisosity in the 66 Shelby auction and after reviewing the pictures I see things that would almost certainly indicate a rebody . I hesitate to elaborate on this open forum . But a least one post has hit at least one nail on the head. I see a big red flag buyer beware.

 

The Rivits holding the Shelby Tag in place look as though they have been there for many many many years. Is there a way to tell if those are originals?
David.