Numbers Matching 101

On the C80E Heads, the "C" is for 60 and the 8 is the Actual Year C8 is 68. If it was a "B" it would be 1950ish, and if it were a "D", it would be 1970ish.
David.

 

If you are serious about spending the kind of cabbage a KR vert will bring you should have or hire someone knowledgable to inspect the car for you. I know the car you are talking about. I have not inspected the car (its in Minn) because there was enough evidence to suggest it is not the original motor (plus other things) and didn't seem worth the trip. Also the Shelby VIN tag on that car is AWOL. I don't doubt its an original car but the absense of the tag significantly affects the cars value. PM me if you want to know more about that car.
Tim

 

This is from the best 1968 Shelby website:

So, What is Matching Numbers?
Matching numbers means the car is original in every respect. If you are looking for an investment grade, quality car, this should be your goal. If you simply want a car to drive around, this may not be as important to you. To determine if a car is matching numbers you will need to study the car you intend to buy. A basic understanding of FORD part numbers, unique parts and codes are all important. If you don't know these things, you will need to find someone who does. I will not go into detail about decoding cars. In the case of the 1968 Shelby, make sure windshield tag, the build tag, the warranty plate and the Shelby VIN plate all match. Additionally, these should match the title of the car. Some of these tags have codes on them and you will need to make sure the codes match the current configuration of the car. If possible, you will want to make sure the front, inner fender apron stampings also match. IMPORTANT: No one can guarantee you a car has matching numbers. Determining if the original tags came on a specific unibody is difficult. Once a vehicle has been restored or repaired this may be virtually impossible. For this reason, you should have a basic understanding of sheet metal repair techniques. Buying an expensive collector car is not easy.

Variations from Stock
After 40 some years, fewer and fewer cars are strict numbers matching. Will a color change effect value? How about a non-matching motor? Generally speaking the answer to both questions is "yes". The car will be devalued whatever the cost to return the car to stock condition will be. You can only have one original motor and one original paint job. That is why the unrestored cars are more valuable. You can still have a valuable car if your car has been restored. A car missing documentation, history or unique parts (such as identification tags or original fiberglass) may be cars to stay away from. If a car is missing one identification tag and everything else is correct, it may still be a car you wish to consider.

The Color Change
A true collector will want the car to be the original colors. An example of this is a GT500KR I sold for a friend years ago. The car was a national show winner. The color change was the only deviation from stock and the car was painted a stock Shelby color. The car would not be considered "matching numbers". The color change excluded many potential buyers. My value guide takes into account a car that has been repainted. Because color is a matter of personal preference, there are likely to be an equal number of people who like the color change. The value of a car will usually not decrease by more than 10% for a color change, unless the car is a non-production color. Unique colors, such as those documented on the website, may actually add value to the car. If car has a color change, look for evidence of the original paint.

The Non-matching Drivetrain
In 1968, Shelbys were driven on the streets. Many cars were raced. Today it is not unusual for a car to be missing its original motor. The value guide shows a price range. Cars with non-matching motors are reflected on the lower end of the scale. Cars with matching number drivetrains are valued higher on the scale.

Missing or Damaged Parts
Missing parts are almost always an issue. It is unusual for a car to have all of its parts. Many cars left the factory missing parts. Items such as wheels, pollution controls and original carburetors were often discarded or changed in favor of aftermarket parts. It is common to see GT500KRs missing several thousands of dollars of parts under the hood. In my opinion, you should not be willing to pay top dollar for a car missing these items. If parts are missing from the car, you must determine the replacement cost of these items and subtract them from the price guide. I have also seen cars with big price tags that require extensive repairs. The cost of the repairs should be reflected in the value. Reproduction parts may detract, depending on the availability of the original parts.

The History and Quality
History and documentation are often overlooked. People see the big price tags, but can not see an unbroken chain of ownership. Please refer to the DOCUMENTATION page on the website for a list of the types of documents that are available for 1968 Shelbys. Be skeptical of cars without documents. The more supporting documentation a car has the better. If the car is restored, the quality of the workmanship is important. Many body shops do good work on late model cars. But, using the same techniques on a classic musclecar may be costly. Additionally, many shops are not specialized, but rather cater to many makes and models. This makes it very easy to loose the details of a quality restoration. Parts added to vehicle can, in some cases, add value to the car. A Paxton supercharger on a small block car is a good example. The installation of the supercharger is a bolt-on job. Be careful, because some items such as adding air conditioning, may actually hurt the value of the car, installing this item requires cutting the original body panels. Changes that can be documented by original paperwork, are always interesting. The best example of this is the infamous 427 engine. A few years back, many people claimed their 1968 Shelbys had "factory installed" 427s. When the FORD records were released, all of these engines became "dealer installed". {note: the records reflect no 427 cars were built} However, without the proper documents, the car is just another 68 missing its original motor.

If you haven't stopped by please do...

www.thecoralsnake.com

 

To have the Authenticated before you buy it, Call Richard Kottle at RAI Corporation. 800-3786364 or email him at rai@swbell.net web site is www.raicorp.biz
David.

 

In the case of a KR, yes, with a little help from mirrors. The rear of each cylinder head should have a partial VIN stamped into it. Its a little tricky but with a flashlight and mirror it can be done. As far as the trans if its a 4 spd some cars have partial VIN stamped on driver's side upper mounting ear. Autos have stamp on top of case and cannot be read in the car (at least I've never been able to)

 

Robert,

As I mentioned in my post above, "NO ONE can guarantee you a matching numbers car. NO ONE!!!"

I don't want to rip anyone trying to make a dollar, but the company in Texas will be of little help in my opinion. Unless they know where your prospective car has been everyday since 1967.

More specifically, the engine has five visible dates on it....they are the block, the intake, the distributor, the water pump and the carburetor. All of these should "match" and be approriate to the car's build date. The engine block and heads may have a partial serial number stamped on them, but they are extremely hard to read when the engine is installed. KR motors are almost always dated April, May or June of 1968 (8D, 8E or 8F)

The transmission will have a tag that indicates the type and a unique transmission serial number. The RUG AE is correct for a 4spd KR and tough to find. Someone could match all these components, but that takes a long time and a lot of cash. Most guys won't go that trouble.

The rear axle carrier also has a date and a tag.

If all these things look good you are well on your way to authenticate. Quite honestly, knowing the history of the car and paying a good bodyman to look the car over is going to get you a lot further than hiring someone who says they can guarantee a car's pedigree....

I know a guy that has a really nice GT500 for sale, you should talk to him... TLEA