66 gt350 side scoop blackout?

I can only speak to how my GT-350 is constructed: No sealer. With blackout.

Z. Ray

 

the blackout on my GT-350 starts at the very forward edge of the scoop. The scoop is placed right at the most forward part of the rear quarter panel. I don't know if the scoops are all placed in exactly the same spot. Given the slapdash fashion of production I imagine there was some variation.

Z. Ray

 

Sealant is different from the later years but there.

Here is a close-up of an original paint car (scoops have not been off) Nicest original 66 I know of. Red no stripe original Paxton car - been seen a couple of times at Fontana SAAC shows

Hope it helps

 

Another great picture from Jeff's archives. The blackout was done before the scoop was sealed and attached. Some kind of mask was used because of the soft edge observed around the edges with the exception of the scoop opening edge which could be a sharp or soft edge. Be careful of a blowout when trying to black out the scoop after it is attached to the car because these sccops didn't fit very good and even with sealer there are sometimes gaps.

 

There may have been a couple of different techniques that were used (since three of the fours sides are not visible may not be that important

Here are some close ups of the original black-out on 6S22x

The edge along the bottom of both sides is made up of a couple of lines like it might have been hand taped with masking tape but the practice may have changed over the year (need to check some more pictures

Appears that the black was applied after the duct and rivets were installed








As Bob said. Not an easy task if done after the scoops are on the car.

 

I wanted to comment on the white Hertz since it is obvious a lot of hard work has been put into the detailing the wheel well. The rebound bumper was cut off for the overrides at SA which was after the sound deadener was applied on the assembly line. The spray pattern on what would be covered and what wouldn't would be different in that area because the rebound brkt would have protected the inside area from being covered with sound deadener before it was cut off for the installation of the overrides. Another detail is the substute rebound bumper that SA welded on in the inside of the frame rail would be spray painted black to cover the welding so it wouldn't rust .The rest of the brkt seen from the inside of the frame rail was plated silver. I can see the edge of the brkt which has been painted white in the picture. The front face of the brake drum would be brush painted black so that rust would not be seen through the spokes of the wheels.I admire your excellent effort and hope you will take this observation in the positve way it is intended.

 

Mostly correct because the bare metal cutoff area would be painted semi gloss black to stop rusting . The same thing was done after welding the overrides to the rear end housing. It just wouldn't have the rough sound deadener in that area . You will have to imagine how the pattern would have laid out with the bracket in place. Then also put a little semi black spray paint on the edges of the welds of the Shelby installed rebound bracket. When you paint the fronts of the brake drums black use a brush to simulate the way it was done on the Ford assembly line. I hope this helps.

 

Chris there are a number of areas that will need "adjusting" (will cover this and provide pictures) but in general you have followed what allot of cars that have appeared in magazines have done ... but not what was original to San Jose cars.

As we often find cars built away from where San Jose cars are common they start taking on the look of what is local. In this case your front wheel wells appear to have details copied from a Dearborn car and the rear wheel wells have the sound deadener applied last when originally the sound deadener was first. So we should be seeing a mostly white wheel well or a white wheel well with semi-gloss black black-out paint over the white in areas. Likely done when the pinch welds were blacked out.

As mentioned I'll send a bunch of pictures of original cars and we'll go through the steps to fix what you have. Not a big job compared to all the work you've done.

BTW I appreciate your willingness to be receptive to input. It looks like you’ve done a great job let’s make it better

 

Bob, should the brake drum front face be painted black on all 66's regardless of the original wheel style? Thanks, Dave

 

Yes if your going to do the spray can (have seen a number of original 65 that the black spray was not done there or on the floor above the rearend) then you had better be liberal in the application there and cover the white paint that still remains in the area that would have been bare metal since it was inside the frame assy

 

Dave, yes the brake drum face would be painted on all cars that had the spoke wheels which all the 14 inch wheels were. A few of the carryover cars might have had 15 inch steel wheels which would have been left bare.

 

Yes ,the wheel well on the beautiful white Hertz looks better. As nice as the car appears it deserves the extra detail. Good work.

 

To illustrate what Bob was describing here is an original brake drum with that detail. Surface rust aplenty but you can make out the black paint applied with a brush

 

It also appears as if the car has the older, incorrect repro Hertz center cap emblem with the yellow color around Hertz as opposed to the correct ones with red.