1965 GT350 Dash Horn Switch?

Jerry,

First to answer your request:
A. 1.685"
B. .380"
C. .300"
D. .090"

Additionally the dimension from the point nearest the dash (where the steel shank meets the plastic, prior to Point C): .245".

From point C to D is a concave taper (i.e. Point D is no thicker nor wider than the narrowest/thinnest measurement of the switch tab).

Viewed from the top: the tip of the switch tab is rounded.

The switch tab is smooth in the sides as well as the radius transitioning to the top/bottom. The smooth surface continues around the radius from the sides to the top/bottom for approximately .050". The center of the top/bottom along the length of the switch tab (within the approx. .050" smooth radius of the sides transitioning to the top) is a rough friction surface.

As alluded to earlier, there is a metal shank from the switch body to the switch tab and the threaded body with projects through the dash to which the washer is affixed is black plastic.

Obviously a detailed close up image is what you need. Perhaps a colleague can provide as I'm unable for a few days.

BTW are you near Bad Tölz?

SFM5S339

 

Hi

Thank you very very much for this detailed answer! WOW!!!!
I think i can do something with this tomorrow, To Bad Tölz i guess its about 90 miles. Nice place i guess like all bavaria!

As soon as i got news on this i post pictures.

Thanks again!
Bye Jerry

 

Thanks to you guys and 339 who gave me the measurements
i built this switch out of massiv alloy T7 and had it chemical
threaded to get the black surface.

Please let me know what you think about this one!

Bye Jerry







P.S. Your opinions are top most importand for me.

 

Hi Jerry,
That switch looks very close to the original.
Excellent job.
Texas Swede

 

Looks real nice, I think the only way you could get closer would be to have an original to model.

Mike

 

If you see anything that could be better please let me know then i
make a new one. Allthough it is allways a bit complicated to do such
projects at work because of my boss i would give it another try.
This is how it started:



The rest is done by hand. Took me three hours and lots of stress.

So you are all welcome to give me points where i can improve it.

Thanks for your words

Bye Jerry

 

Jerry

Your efforts and results are truly noteworthy. Congratulations.

As mentioned previously, here are some photos attached of an *unrestored* original.

A couple of further specifications:

When viewed from the top looking down all of the widths are:

a) Point closest to the dash where steel cylindrical shank enters switch tab (R/H of your point A): .245";

b) Point of 'crest' (high point) width (L/H of your point B): .314";

c) From above widest point of .314" a slow taper to end of switch tab to width of .284" wherein bullnosed radius of end of switch tab commences;

d) The steel shank coming from the switch body to the plastic switch" .125" cylindrical steel;

e) Don't forget that the threaded switch body which the washer/bezel screws on to is *black* plastic;

f) Lastly regarding you washer/bezel- the flat surface on yours looks a little wide...try.075", overall thickness of bezel: .130".

Keep up the good work, the Tölzers would be proud!

 

Hi 339

Your informations are like gold for me thank you very much.
As soon as i get back to work i try again.
I think now with these exellent pictures there shouldn´t be any
problems making this thing like it supposed to be.

I keep you guys informed!

Thank you all very very much! You are great!!!!

 

Attached are close up views of an original 1965 GT350 horn switch. It is as installed early in the production at LAX. It has never been removed. This will give a clearer view of the seam line from the plastic molding process. If you’re utilizing a CNC mill, you should be able to create this detail. It’s a fine point, but I thought it might be of interest to you.

 

Hey
Thanks for the pictures. But i´m afraid i won´t be able to make this thin
line. I´ve noticed it and was thinking how i could do it. But as you
can see two statements up the handles are milled just to get the shaped
from top and bottum not the sides. I do this by hand.
I know i´m good but not that good .
But maybe i´ll find a way.
I´m still waiting for 339 to send me measurements on my drawing i´d sent
him.

Thanks again for the pictures!!!

Bye Jerry

 

Hey Guys, I'm coming close to finishing my clone. I know it's only a clone, but I've been trying to use as many original or original looking pieces as possible. I've been stumped on the horn switch. Is an original switch a momentary on-off (spring loaded return off) or a manual on then manual off? I've sourced an set of switches from an MGA which seem to have the correct details but just a touch shorter on the lever than an original GT350. any info would be appreciated. Thanks Earl

 

The original Raydyot S-34 is a momentary switch, i.e. it returns to
off automatically when released.
In the UK it was called a Signalling Flick Switch.
Texas Swede

 

Hi philksr

For the moment i´m still on vacation and did not have to oportunity
to build one. They sell the plastic switches on ebay.uk
The price with only 2 pounds is unbeatable.
Here comes the point what someone wants for his car?
Cheap or quality?
I thought of selling them but i guess i better not. Why?
I don´t know for how much i should offer one. It is alot of work
what will be more expensive.
As soon as the first switch is finished i´ll post pictures.
Then i can tell you what i would want for it.
Another thought was to sell it in steps:
You can only have the milled piece, or just the switch without the handle,......
Just a thought

Bye Jerry

 

Someone with an original could make a silicone mold and have a batch of the switch handles made in plastic, complete with the original mold seam. My understanding is that it's a pretty straight forward process, and not too costly.

Kits are available from websites such as:

http://www.reproduce100s.com/

Of course, the people that want the switch typically don't have an original to make the mold, and those that have the original probably don't need to make their own repop. I guess that's where sites such as this come in to play.

 

I would buy one and i completely understand what the cost might be , thanks again for your efforts Otto

 

I need one of those horn switches also when you get them figured out, 828-308-8103 Thanks

 

Hi guys

Here are updates!
Now i´ve made one with the original meassurements.
The thickness of the tip is bit stronger on mine i thought
the original size with .090 was a bit weak.
Need to optimize the washer but the switch i think turned
out pretty good
Ok here is a picture:






Let me know what you think.
For those who want it even better:
I ordered the switch in UK and will make a mold out of silicone
and make the switches in plastic but the switch will be modern
and best quality you can get.
There you can have two options:
Either like original push down and return by itself
or one that has this funktion also upward so you could
hook up something else. Like two switches in one
isn´t that neat??

Bye Jerry

 

Hi guys

News from germany!!!

Today i recieved the switch from ebay.uk and here are pictures so you can
compare the two in shape. Ok the side view is different on mine but like
i said i will try to make a mold and make some out of plastic.







Now to the switch itself:
Please never buy one like this if you plan to put it in your car.
I even would say that i would´nt like to have this lousy switch in
my old german car. The quality is lousy!!! The switch is not really fix
you can even push it sideways. I doubt it would even take 12 volts or
more that 10 amps of power. The complete housing and nut is plastic.

As soon as the mold is finished i get back to you.

Bye Jerry