I need a little help from the group. I recently finished a restoration on my KR (had a lot of help) and found a problem. The Brake light on the gauge console is lite and I can't seem to be able to get it out. I was told to replace the Brake light switch that sits on top of the proportional valve and that would do it. I replaced the switch and light is still on. I was hoping someone might have another suggestion, or know what else it might be. Thanks for you help Peter Simmel
I have the same problem on my '69 Mach 1 and would also like to know of a resolution. At 11:06 AM 4/11/05, Peter Simmel wrote: >I need a little help from the group. I recently finished a restoration on >my KR (had a lot of help) and >found a problem. The Brake light on the gauge console is lite and I can't >seem to be able to get it out. I was told to replace the Brake light >switch that sits on top of the proportional valve and that would do it. I >replaced the switch and light is still on. I was hoping someone might have >another >suggestion, or know what else it might be. > >Thanks for you help > >Peter Simmel > > > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/05 Mike Greene TENA Website Curator Trideum Corporation 256.704.6113 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/05
I have found that over time the proportioning valve get "gooked up" with some brown stuff from the older brake fluid. It causes the pressure loss switch it stick in a position that illuminates the warning light. To fix it I had to pull off the valve block, pull out the threaded plug and clean everything up with brake clean, and re-assemble and it worked ok. On Mon, 11 Apr 2005, Mike Greene wrote: > I have the same problem on my '69 Mach 1 and would also like to know of a > resolution. > > > At 11:06 AM 4/11/05, Peter Simmel wrote: > >> I need a little help from the group. I recently finished a restoration on my >> KR (had a lot of help) and >> found a problem. The Brake light on the gauge console is lite and I can't >> seem to be able to get it out. I was told to replace the Brake light switch >> that sits on top of the proportional valve and that would do it. I replaced >> the switch and light is still on. I was hoping someone might have another >> suggestion, or know what else it might be. >> >> Thanks for you help >> >> Peter Simmel >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/05 > > Mike Greene > TENA Website Curator > Trideum Corporation > 256.704.6113 > > > > > Calvin http://www.highrpm.net
Peter wrote: {snip} The Brake light on the gauge console is lite and I can't seem to be able to get it out. I was told to replace the Brake light switch that sits on top of the proportional valve and that would do it. I replaced the switch and light is still on. I was hoping someone might have another suggestion, or know what else it might be. >>>Well, if you disconnect the wire from the switch, does the light go out? Stupid question, I know, but I don't know how many inputs there are to that light. The Pantera has a similar problem sometimes, and the idiot light has two different inputs--either from the junction block pressure switch, or a mechanical switch on the parking brake handle. On the Pantera (and I presume most cars of the era, including yours), the brake lines all converge on a brass junction block which incorporates a pressure switch for the idiot light (and perhaps another pressure switch for the brake lights, if a mechanical switch isn't used on the pedal, like on the '65-66 cars). Inside the junction block is a differential pressure valve (shuttle valve). The idea is, if a brake line ruptures, on the next application of brakes there will be vastly different pressure on one side of the valve, which will displace it to one side. As it is displaced, a raised portion engages a plunger on the warning switch, illuminating the idiot light. When bleeding the brakes, you basically generate a similar scenario, and it is possible to trigger this valve. 30 years of grut in the brake fluid etc. then causes it to stick. You can remove the block from the car, dismantle and clean it thoroughly. Then when you re-assemble and re-fill the brake system, if you have an extra helper you can bleed two calipers at once, keeping the differential pressure on each side of the valve at zero. The whole thing is of dubious value as far as I'm concerned--any situation that would trigger the valve would also probably trigger an involuntary bowel movement, so the light is rather redundant! I re-plumbed my Pantera to eliminate the junction block completely. Note, don't simply gut the junction block and reassemble with no valve in place, for then you're mixing your front and rear brake systems and can screw up the proportioning, not to mention the fact that a single line failure will then affect all four brakes. Good luck! Mike
I have the same problem on my GT 500. The valve is not shifting properly. Most shop manuals outline the procedule to try and fix this. I have been unsuccessful so far in correcting mine, but have not tried that hard. I will detail the procedure later today if you cannot find it in your manual in the brake section. Rick Thompson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Calvin Sanders" <calvins@highrpm.net> To: "Shelby Mustang" <Shelbymustang@carmemories.com> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 10:13 AM Subject: Re: Question: Brake Light > > I have found that over time the proportioning valve get "gooked up" with > some brown stuff from the older brake fluid. It causes the pressure loss > switch it stick in a position that illuminates the warning light. To fix > it I had to pull off the valve block, pull out the threaded plug and clean > everything up with brake clean, and re-assemble and it worked ok. > > On Mon, 11 Apr 2005, Mike Greene wrote: > > > I have the same problem on my '69 Mach 1 and would also like to know of a > > resolution. > > > > > > At 11:06 AM 4/11/05, Peter Simmel wrote: > > > >> I need a little help from the group. I recently finished a restoration on my > >> KR (had a lot of help) and > >> found a problem. The Brake light on the gauge console is lite and I can't > >> seem to be able to get it out. I was told to replace the Brake light switch > >> that sits on top of the proportional valve and that would do it. I replaced > >> the switch and light is still on. I was hoping someone might have another > >> suggestion, or know what else it might be. > >> > >> Thanks for you help > >> > >> Peter Simmel > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> No virus found in this incoming message. > >> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > >> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/05 > > > > Mike Greene > > TENA Website Curator > > Trideum Corporation > > 256.704.6113 > > > > > > > > > > > > Calvin > http://www.highrpm.net
I completely restored my 67 and started with an entirely new proportioning valve as well as the rest of the system. I don't know the technical reason, but I went through 3 nice looking, but used switches until I could get the dash light to go out. The one that finally worked came from Glazier's Mustang. I think they were about $10 each. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Simmel" <simmel@maine.edu> To: <Shelbymustang@carmemories.com> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 11:06 AM Subject: Question: Brake Light >I need a little help from the group. I recently finished a restoration on >my KR (had a lot of help) and > found a problem. The Brake light on the gauge console is lite and I can't > seem to be able to get it out. I was told to replace the Brake light > switch that sits on top of the proportional valve and that would do it. I > replaced the switch and light is still on. I was hoping someone might have > another > suggestion, or know what else it might be. > > Thanks for you help > > Peter Simmel >
