1969 GT-350 Opportunity

Go look at it and see what shape its in. If laser straight is BS and looks like he painted it with a broom than 45k maybe too much. If its top notch its a steal. I would look at it first by yourself. If you need expert advice try to get without letting others know the cars location. You may not have as much time as you think. ...take a camera ..we like pictures.

 

make sure the VIN has a "48" in it. like 9F02M481111

 

Learning about these thing is an ongoing process and is as much about what you see that you shouldn't as looking for evidence you expect to see. Then sitting down and evaluating all the facts.

Allot IMHO in this deal depends on the condition of the car before the wreck (rust, panel replacements.....) and the quality of the repairs (can you tell, see or find evidence of the wreck or repair?)

 

Just my opinion...

The shape of the car is going to make a lot of difference in what it's worth. Not having the original block or trans is a big item. The block was stamped with the VIN, and the tranny has a tag with the same, so they match the car. I wouldn't worry too much about the rearend - since it's a GT350, there are a lot of housings/pumkins accross Mustang/Cougar out there that are correct for your application (i.e. you wont have to track down a big bearing 31 spline set-up)

The electrical on the 69 is concerning - may require a fair amount of work to fix and I'm not aware of replacement "OEM" harnesses for the console stuff. It has driven me crazy on mine.

The 69/70 is not cheap to restore - lots of unique pieces on the body, and I found i wasn't satisified with any of the repop stuff available when I did mine in '99. I would advise taking a really good look at the fiberglass and plan on repairing what you have if able, or tracking down NOS or used. You will be happier in the end.

A correct and complete, restored GT350 coupe will go for between 80-100k. That would not be a 100 point, concourse trailer queen - they would go for more. How much more would be a subject of debate.

Only you can decide if it's worth it, but I would say 45k sounds like a very reasonable price, worthy of the jump if the car is solid.

 

Yes the most important step... and one best not rushed.

Stand back and look close... and just get a feel of whjat has taken place over the years with the car.

See something a bit off... look deeper to find out why.

From this angle and another till you figure out why something was done.

Some times the answer is simple.. and quite understandable... others are just plane stupid

Remember..... ALWAYS compare what the dollars (if you didn't buy that particular car) would purchase instead. The current and future values are uncertain IMHO and always understand that builders are are rarely the bargin they appear (correct finished area more often are)

Good luck

 

If its rust free, the previous work good ,buy it!!. Shebys at 45000 are hard to find.

 

You are worrying to much !!! Look the car over if it is solid and all there for the price he is asking you should buy it.
You know it has been sitting and you WILL have to go through the mechanicals but that is what you would do on any old car you would buy.This is how you will learn more about your car and is also the biggest part of the hobby. You will put your Blood,Sweat and money and make it yours.

Good luck !!!!!!
Dominic

 

I completely agree, especially about the blood, sweat, and money part. Don't forget the tears either. Busting your knuckles while trying to break a bolt loose is like a rite of passage. That has brought me almost to the point of tears many times. Somehow a car has never felt like mine until I've taken it apart and put it back together.

 

Overbored,

Bought it in 1977 for $2400. Had to get the cash from my parents to buy the thing and then they turned around and forgave the loan as a college graduation present. Pictures are at http://www.s-techent.com/photos67.htm

 

I figured that no one would have S7MS-427 and I was right. I like them and they are pretty unique.