What to do? Shelby VIN tag.

I would suggest you personally remove the tag, store it in a safe place (like a fire proof safe) and personally reinstall the original tag after the engine bay is restored. You might also want to take pictures of the VIN under the tag to keep for reference.

 

I agree. Keep it safe while restoring. I know of a Shelby VIN tag that got blasted by a body shop with a sandblaster. It was obliterated. But these cars look great with an old original tag reinstalled once the work is done. Dont be ashamed of its aged appearance.

 

Dennis:

I would definately remove the tag, as I did with my car. You can contact AMK products in Virginia. They sell the exact rivets that Shelby used, so it's no problem reinstalling the tag when your ready.

Kenny

 

I would NOT remove the tag, when I restored 5S284, there were only two parts I did not remove from the entire car, the vin plate was one of them. I put alot of effort into restoring the car, perhaps even more effort in the items done at Shelby American. I am not completely sold in the idea anyone has the proper style rivets as was use in 1965. In any event, I wanted to leave something untouched on the car as it was when it left the factory, one of the items was the vin plate. Unless there is some question as to the car's history, I would leave it alone. Once removed, you can never go back. If you look at the '65 vin plate you will see a thin outer border, I cut out a piece of thin but dense piece of cardboard to the exact dimension of the inside of this border and used the blue painters tape to affix the cardboard onto the plate, I then used duct tape over that layer to provide a cushion. A tin can was cut to make another barrier, same size as the cardboard, adhered by duct tape again. The area around the vin plate was carefully stripped by hand, then a larger shield was made that overlaid the vin plate and part of the sheet metal. I was on hand when the stripper was doing my car. It turned out great, I have never regretted leaving the original vin tag alone, and would do it no other way again.

 

What was the other part?

Mike

 

I would have to disagree. I have done many Shelby,s I would not let the car out of my garage with that tag in place . Remove that tag as soon as you start restoring the car.There is no need to keep it there and worrying about original rivets ??? You are going to have to remove the tag if you ever sell anyway I know when I buy 65,66,67 cars I want to see the Ford # before handing over the money. I would think you would also want to know your Ford # ? If the car has to go to a media blaster or body shop for a long period of time to many things can and will happen. There are also a lot of souvenir collectors!!!!!! I have also bought repop tags and riveted them over the Ford # "out of site out of mind" !!!!!!!! There are allot of people in and out of the shops you will use. Its your investment!!!!!!!!

Dominic

 

No need to worry with the kind of history my car has, I knew it was original after two minutes I laid eyes on it. The next owner would be stupid to pull the vin tag off, it is just too well documented. Since the car was rarely out of my sight during its restoration, there was no need to worry about theft. In fact, I left the plate covered well after the body was painted white. For all the work it took, I am glad I never took the vin plate off, yea its only a couple of rivets, but to me it means a lot more to me than that, it is just something about that little piece of tin. The car was a labor of love, I spent 2 1/2 weeks just restoring the side air extractors, almost a month, cleaning and detailing the engine bay wiring loom, the black electrical tape and its modifications made at Shelby American were left all original, since he car was not used since 1969, some parts came back as nice as they were when they were new.
Hi Mike,I have your stuff ready to ship out, there is one more box I have to ship out late this week, I'll have your sent out on the same day. The only other part I did not remove in the restoration was the upper trim above the doors/ roof line, mine polished up well and the body people I spoke to felt they may get damaged upon removal and they mentioned they may not seal as well as they did from the factory when put back on, everything else was removed. Thanks, Hov

 

I can tell you, SAAC would suggest only removing 1 rivet, getting the Ford stamped number, then replacing the rivet. Ah, if you are going to blast the car, go ahead and remove the plate. (info out of a "Shelby American")

And, did you know that in SAAC concours, (if this matters to you) the judges will ignore the worn VIN plate, and any wear on it? They feel it much more represents the originality if the car to see any scratches, fading etc. on this plate.

Also, while the plate is off, take a pencil rubbing or to for future reference.
As already mentioned, AMK has the correct rivets.

 

Hov:

Just to let you know, I compared AMKs rivets to the ones Shelby used and they are exact. I wouldn't be surprised if Max (the owner of AMK) actually found the original supplier that Shelby used.
The only thing I am curious about is, without removing the tag, when the engine compartment is painted, now you have 2 different black paints, the original paint under the tag, and the new paint in the engine compartment?
If someone were to buy your car one day, and want to remove a rivet to verify the Ford VIN under the tag, the paint differences will be seen.

Mike, did you have Cowles remove your tag?

Kenny

 

Looked at AMK's catalog and they spec "black anodized alum" for the ID tag rivets.

True?....should the rivet head(body) be black like that?

 

Ron:

Shelby didn't use the black headed rivets on the 65 Shelby tag, but they were used on and off on the 67's
AMK also has the natural head rivets as well.

Kenny

 

Thanks, Kenny... I didn't recall seeing them black on 65-66's

 

Black anodized rivets were used on the 66 inner quarter window panels.

There is no need to remove the Shelby VIN tag to verify the Ford VIN. I was able to verify all three Ford VINs when I purchased my 66 by seeing the reverse stamping in the wheel well.

 

Mark - thanks for shipping that stuff, much appreciated.
I may have some things for you in the near future.

Ken - I sent you a PM.

Mike

 

Well, I agree with Dominic. I would not leave my Shelby vin tag on the car while it is being blasted,or painted !! Why be so worried about the original rivets.If you are going to media blast the car, the original primer will also be lost forever. Where do you draw the line ? The rivets will be easier to find then the original paint, which will now be floating in the air.

 

As Kenny said the Rivets Max sells were used in 67 Shelby for the Vin tags they were also used for the taillight panel and as mentioned the 66 inner quarter windows. Actually the 65/66 cars used a silver rivet with a slightly larger outer diameter to secure the Shelby ID tag then what you can get today. When placed next to each other the difference stands out. With a little ingenuity it can be recreated. I would remove the tag before restoration. It isn't worth the risk of a damaged or lost tag to leave it on. Of course the ones on my cars have never been removed because they have the correct size rivets. wink,wink nudge nudge.

 

Not that I would ever compete with my car...but.... Bob, how would replaced rivets on a VIN tag affect judging?

 

It would be a small amount maybe 1/2 or at the most 1 point under current guidelines. To be honest there are usually so many other issues to deal with on most entered cars something like the rivets in the ID plate get overlooked on a 65/66 because they don't stand out like the black anodized ones on a 67 . If the 65/66 car being judged is very correct then the small things like the rivets will stand out more because everything else is correct.

 

...makes sense. Thanks.