Hi all: #3000 is 95% done with metal work. Red oxide primer will be sprayed soon. The question I have is this: Does the seam sealer (black) that is found everywhere, go on or after the red oxide primer? Before or after paint? The sealer is also on the floorboards. The floor boards on this Shelby were painted Lime Gold from the factory. I searched the web for pics but I see to many diffrences.This car was completed 7/67. Pic below is before sandblasting Thanks Jim
There are at least four types of seam sealer (likely more) some goes on before and some after depending on the location and application Are you referring to the floor in the interior (in the picture you showed)? IF so this is typical - just overspray from all th exterior paint application. Interior panels though would have been masked off since the interior paint was applied before body color. Can I guess your looking at "restored" cars Lets try going to original cars instead..... way too many "concours" examples out there with details from NJ or Dearborn incorporated in their refinishing IMHO Was this the date it was completed at Ford? Seems kind of late for #3000 If you would like, feel free to email me directly and I'll try and help (will try and fit you in) - got to attach files and pictures. We'll "talk" about getting your vin so we can look at some cars built at the same time as yours. Provided similar information for the restoration of #3206 that won a Division 1 award last year if I remember correctly
Jim, Just a guess, but I'd think that based on his VIN alone, Jim is referring to his Shelby completion date. My car, 3040, was completed 7/17 at SAI. My Ford build date is 6/15.
Roy: You are correct. Production start date was 6/27. Completed 7/21. Thanks. Jeff: Thanks. I would like any help you can lend with the seam sealer type and locations. Im trying to put this car as close to ORIGINAL as possible. I dont want the typcial "restored" look.
Hi to Jim and all on this subject.Good to see the progress on your car.Looks like all the dirty work will soon be completed,and the fun will really begin.Great to see people offer their help and you are in good company here.There was a very good article in Hemmings Muscle car showing a Cougar Eliminator being restored,and it mentions seam sealer,duplicating the factory stuff that is far from a neat application,and so on.They mention special spray equipment for this and this helps explain why/how it ends up with the look or texture that we are attempting to duplicate.I would say of all parts of a restoration,the inside of the trunk,and the wheel tubs are the most difficult to duplicate exactly.It is a very easy thing to make it look to smooth or to over restore.The article in HMC was really good and has before and after pics.Hope this helps you on your car.
Patty: Thank you for the encouraging words and the info! I agree with you regarding the fact that many cars get the overrestored look. I took SEVERAL pics of the cars interior flooring before getting to the blaster. My goal is to duplicate the sealer without going overboard. The bodyman doing all the sheetmetal showed me a tool he has that is fairly old. It sprays seam sealer in a fanning pattern. He was practicing on plywood the other day to duplicate the pattern and flow rate. Im very interested in reading the Hemmings article. Any knowledge is good knowledge. And lastly yes the dirty work is over. The fun part has begun!! The metal work is DONE! Jim
Saw the article also.... thought there was a couple of odd things included but over all a good example for a 69 Dearborn car. OF course the "messy" sealer is only one of approx four different types (not all shot out of a spray gun or the same material) that were used on a 67 San Jose