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1966 GT350 rt. rear wheel cylinder rebuild.....

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008.

  1. Apr 20, 2008 #1
    Edward66GT350

    Edward66GT350 Well-Known Member

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    i need to rebuild the rt. rear wheel cylinder due to leaking and it was grabbing.
    1-any special tools or tech tips i need to know. have not done this before.
    2-how will i know if the wheel cylinder is original?
    3-can it be rebuilt?
    tia,
    ed
     
    Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008
    Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008
    #1
  2. Apr 20, 2008 #2
    Snakepit

    Snakepit Well-Known Member

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    You will need a kit and a brake bore hone. If the bore is pitted there are some places I believe that can resleeve them.

    Yes they can be rebuilt

    Indentification? First start with the bleeder. Are they large or small ones (3/8 or 5/16?)

    Original small bleeders are getting a pain to find some do everything you can to save these. .... if not I'll throw them away for you ;)
     
    Snakepit, Apr 20, 2008
    Snakepit, Apr 20, 2008
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  3. Apr 20, 2008 #3
    Edward66GT350

    Edward66GT350 Well-Known Member

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    any special tools required to remove and reinstall the springs?
    ed
     
    Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008
    Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008
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  4. Apr 20, 2008 #4
    Edward66GT350

    Edward66GT350 Well-Known Member

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    ok, i removed the wheel cylinder.
    1-what size replacement, 7/8 or 29/32 bore diameter? much confusion at auto store re this. galaxy 500 brakes?
    2-how to adjust the brake adj thumb wheel screw, turn clockwise or ccwise?
    tia,
    ed
     
    Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008
    Edward66GT350, Apr 20, 2008
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  5. Apr 20, 2008 #5
    Bob Gaines

    Bob Gaines Well-Known Member

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    If I remember 29/32 sounds right . Ether the 7/8 or the 29/32 will work and you will only notice the difference in very spirited driving. The larger bore is best. Galaxy, Station Wagon or big car with 2 1/2 brakes is the auto parts store code to use. Don't use Shelby as the car model unless you want a lot of grief. Don't remember the direction on the adjuster but the drum will spin freely going the wrong way. The 1966 Shop manual will have all the particulars.Bob
     
    Bob Gaines, Apr 20, 2008
    Bob Gaines, Apr 20, 2008
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  6. Apr 20, 2008 #6
    Snakepit

    Snakepit Well-Known Member

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    Look to see what direction the automatic adjusters turn the star wheel (the odd shaped sheetmetal piece attached to the cable and the short spring) The cable pulls the arm up and the spring pulls it down, turning the wheel. That is the direction that will tighten the shoes againist the drums
     
    Snakepit, Apr 20, 2008
    Snakepit, Apr 20, 2008
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  7. Apr 25, 2008 #7
    gjz30075

    gjz30075 Well-Known Member

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    Most generic auto parts stores carry the tool you'll need. It looks like a set of pliers with a hook and notch on either end. Easy to use but not easy to figure out the first time..
     
    gjz30075, Apr 25, 2008
    gjz30075, Apr 25, 2008
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  8. Apr 25, 2008 #8
    OVERRIDE

    OVERRIDE Well-Known Member

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    You are better off to buy 2 new wheel cylinders and replace them in a pair.
    a lot cheaper and faster then rebuilding them. Do not for get to check you axle seals for leakage. If you replace the one the other will start to leak do to the pressure .

    :thumbsup:
     
    OVERRIDE, Apr 25, 2008
    OVERRIDE, Apr 25, 2008
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  9. May 26, 2008 #9
    Edward66GT350

    Edward66GT350 Well-Known Member

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    Well, I removed the wheel cylinder. It appeared to be in great shape. A friend said it just needed to be taken a part, cleaned and reinstalled. So we did that, but it is still locking up. After bleeding the system, went for a test drive. Moderate brake pedal pressure resulted in the RR wheel skidding/locking. It also seemed to drag.
    Jacked up the rear end and both wheels spin freely. So, it does not seem to be the brakes binding due to mechanical failures, such as worn springs.
    I also cleaned the shoes and the drums so there is no fluid on them.
    It appears that i STILL HAVE A HYDRAULIC ISSUE. Should I just replace the current cylinder or rebuild it?
    TIA,
    Ed
     
    Edward66GT350, May 26, 2008
    Edward66GT350, May 26, 2008
    #9
  10. May 27, 2008 #10
    tommyleea

    tommyleea Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked the left rear for leaking/proper operation? It may be that the RR is working, but the left side isn't. If you are talking original wheel cylinders, I don't think you can just clean them up. The rubber parts deteriorate along with proper operation. Probably need to replace both sides, along with the flexible brake hose. Just some ideas. Cheers.

    Tommy :)
     
    tommyleea, May 27, 2008
    tommyleea, May 27, 2008
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