Not an owner but help needed!

flush the gas tank for sure...change the oil...before you do all that see if you can still turn the engine crank by hand(rachet with socket of course) if no turny then you will have to rebuild as mositure can build up in the cylinder walls an rust happens and freezes up the pistons ....just my two sense...I am sure some master mechanics will chime in though...

Welcome to the fourm...I am very very new here ...like two weeks now..and only have been asking questions so now I feel like I got to contribute a little...anyhow this is a great forum with a great group of men who realy help out with info .....

Hope that helped..

Oh yea make sure you still have water in the radiator/engine...an engine flush would be nice...

 

After sitting for 7 years every fluid will need to be changed. Pull the plugs and squirt some oil in the bores and see if you can turn the engine over by hand. I think it's a 15/16 bolt on crank damper. If you can great. With fresh oil pull dist. and spin oil pump to get pressure. Gas in carb. will be varnish by now so you'll have to take it off and make sure the jet etc. are clear. Plus fuel filter will be must likely plugged. You can run a line to a 5 gallon can just to see if it will run if you don't flush the fuel lines and tank. Before seeing if it will start first make sure you have spark. Then put plugs back in.

Make sure to have a fire extinguisher on hand.

 

I have not run across a 68 Shelby that is Presidential Blue (dark). Are you sure it's not Acapulco Blue / Code "D" ?

 

If it is the original engine, then it would be a 428 PI. The KR had the CJ and they are not really all that rare.

As mentioned, definitely have a fire extinguisher, or two, on hand.

As far as dumping a little oil in the cylinders before starting it, I have found that marvel mystery oil works excellent for engines that have been sitting.

 

Interesting color. Do you have a picture of the buck tag, door tag or build sheet? What car # is it (last 4 digits of Shelby VIN)?

 

After sitting for 7 years presumably without having the engine turned at all, I'd be a little concerned about one or more valve springs being fully compressed, or close to it, for all that time. Once the engine fires, wouldn't it be possible to float a valve? Anyone share that concern, or is it not valid for one reason or another?

Very cool car. Thanks for posting the picture. What's you friends goal for the restoration? Does he want to build a nice driver, or? You should check out Pete's website www.thecoralsnake.com . It's dedicated to '68 Shelby's and he has a tremendous amount of information available on there.

Good luck,

Josh

 

If I had a real '68 Shelby, I wouldn't add LeMans stripes, only because none of them ever came from the factory with them. A lot of them wear them now, but those are not original stripes. I like the look of the stripes, so I think they have a place on clones, but for the real deal, I wouldn't do it. It's all personal preference, though. If he likes the look, it's his car. He should do whatever he wants to make it more enjoyable for him. If he were doing a concours resto, the answer would be no way, no how.

 

Its screwed onto the top of the right rear fender apron next to the hood hinge. Series of letters/numbers stamped into a 2"x3" plate

 

Color is on the door tag (in the form of a code)

On the buck tag and on the build sheet. Anyone want to bet it is not originally Presidential Blue? (Friendly of course)

 

I agree with you that it is most likely a repaint. I haven't seen that many original factory paints that flake (not counting light colored Detroit cars of the '80's).

robin

 

Is there a buck tag? It would be by the passenger side hood hinge screwed on to of the apron.

here's a little info for your friend. #825 was originally Highland green w/saddle interior. I bet if you pop the back seat out you'll see some traces of the green.

 

TLEA was spot on. A color code of "R" is Highland Green.

Josh

 

Well they are different but include the same #. Your windshield tag shoul read
8T02S129642 and then the Shelby tag (on the apron) adds the Shelby sequential # of 0825 so it should read 8T02S129642-0825.

 

That TLEA is smart. Good thing he didn't bet me lunch.

The windshield tag should read "8T02S129642" and match the door tag. "R" is the code for Highland Green.

The tag under the hood will read "8T02S129642-00825" That is of course, IF we are all talking about the same car.

Your earlier post (Number 14 in this thread) said the car was Shelby number 825.

 

No I'm not falling for that, I think I still owe you lunch from the last bet.