Correct finish for rear springs

Jerroll, my springs are painted with Eastwood spray gray, part number 1258z. As far as I know this is the paint everyone uses if your going to paint your springs.
The picture below shows the original paint marks on my springs. I don't remake the paint marks if the original ones can be found. I taped over the original marks then painted the springs with spray gray.
As you can see in the pictures a previous owner painted the springs and rearend floresent green.
Kenny

 

Original springs were heat treated then phosphate and oil

 

MCA concours and SAAC Div 2 can be painted as long as replicates original finish. MCA thoroughbred and SAAC DIV 1 must have original finishes. Even in the first 2 points can be deducted for "over restoration". A good example of this would be if you painted your leaf springs, U bolts and shock mount plates all with cast blast so there is no contrast between these 3 natural finishes.

 

As TLEA said, you need to check the sanctioning body and class you are showing the car in, they vary in what they will allow.

The color and location of the stripes will vary depending on the year and otpions/bodystyle of the car.

1968s are normally striped with just one color code where Kenny did his. Kenny is nearly a genius.



1969s tend to be out on the end of the spring near the rear shackle.

 

I like to phosphate and oil the springs apart, then spray a small amount of cosmoline after detailing them. Install new clamps from NDP or AMK.

 

I've used (for painted ones) the following

Clean and disassembly
Light coat of Eastwood phosphate
Light coat of dark charcoal metallic (yes the interior paint)
Dry coat of satin to give the oiled look



Don't think the original springs were phosphated but the look and color (which depended allot on how old the oil was that was used to cool the part) was similar after heat treating

Another option is using gun bluing repair fluid worked into the bare clean metal. But large smooth parts are hard to do and get a consistent look on.



Remember the clamps are bare untreated steel look. Hope you got the right clamps.... can be very hard to find for the wider springs. Most "concours" reproductions are not even close

As for correct spring stripe colors we would need to know

Body style?

When the car was assembled?

Transmission?

Ac or non AC?

Ken's stripe location shown above is not correct for your application

Hope this helps a little

 

If your referring to is the use of paints and clear coats no. Sorry if I missed the Thoroughbred mention in your earlier post.



Spring stripes for your particular car would be (from a 2/28/69 car - close as I could find)

Front springs - 1 Gold & 1 Pink

Rear springs - 1 Gold & 1 Violet

Gold appears to have had a orange tint and no metallic. Violet is kind of a medium Purple

Happy to help

 

..and the 68 color codes are found here:

http://www.thecoralsnake.com/SUSPENSION.HTML

 

Jerroll yours must be one of the first cars after they changed the settings/springs. Double checked the one I quoted above from Feb 25, convertible, 428CJ, automatic, non-AC, with PS. Yours wouldn't happen to be a SCJ?


If you don't mind I would be interested in a scan of that buildsheet would be happy to send you the one I mentioned that was vuilt just before yours.

 

69 and 70 Shelby's had unique leaf springs different in appearance from a 67 or 68. The length of the leafs are different from 67 or 68 Shelby and Mustang and in the case of the bottom plate it is straight and not curved. The S9MS engineering number on the bottom plate indicates it was a Shelby only unit. Some restorers unknowingly replace the bottom plate on a new set thinking it was the only difference. Knowledgeable 69/70 Judges can tell the difference. The only part of the leafs that is the same is the leaf that has the front in rear eyelet. From a maintenance stand point the procedure that Jeff Speegle oulined gives the most correct appearence and would be correct for SAAC DIV II, MCA trailered and Team Shelby Heritage class. Bob

 

Originally/correct finish is a oil over heat treated metal.

IF you try and phosphate them to get the dark look then you must be VERY careful since the heat process will destroy the tempter of the metal if the plater does not know what they are doing. Like the hood springs.

Two clamps would be correct for a 69-70 Shelby

 

I agree with Jeff about the gun blueing. It is an excellent way to recreate the original heat treat appearance of rear leaf springs and steering components. I do not think the 150 degrees needed for phosphating would hurt the spring temper, but why take the chance? Blueing is cheap, easy to apply and looks great. Finished with a layer of cosmoline or wheel bearing grease, the appearance is very correct.

 

Way to go FIBERFAB GURU, Bare metal parts no metal prep, no kind of rust preventives, several coats of gun bluing & only a thin coat ofsatin to make them shine, I agree they look great! But how long do you think?! before they rust through? Do you paint a bare metal body without metal prep or primer, how long do you think that would last? Way to go Jeff.

 

5-plus years so far.

Opps....... just remembered - Don't Feed the Trolls