67 shelby blackout

Hi to a 67 owner.I think the majority of cars left the plant without any blackout--if we are lucky enough Jeff can provide some pictures.From an opinion standpoint they do look better blacked out especially if the car is a light color...but they also look better lowered,and many would say with Le Mans stripes.So if you have correctly duplicated the sounddeadner in the wheel tubs,and painted them with some body color over the primer,I'd think you would not loose any points.Each assembly plant has its own varience,San Jose was light on body color compared to Dearborn.a good place to see a Metuchen car is on the coralsnake website.And like I said earlier,Jeff should have some pictures--he is incredible when it involves the San Jose cars.Great to know you are getting this close to the finish!!P.S. don't forget to black out the pinch weld along the rocker panel before you bolt on the front fenders.

 

Lets see if we can do this with words

1- We see 67 examples with the sound deadener applied before and after the red oxide colored undercarriage epoxy primer/sealer

2- I would expect a fair amount of body color on in the rear wheelwell as well as rear frame rails and gas tank drop exposed in the wheel well - especially rearward. The paint is often heavy enough to produce runs on the rear end bumper mount but tappers off at the top of the wheel housing to just the primer and even bare metal along the top area where the wheel housing meets the quarter panel and the strip of seam sealer applied there. (same goes with the sound deadener application along this top - outer edge)


3- in 65-67 at San Jose its be my experience that about 50% of the cars got the rear wheelwells blackout when the pinch weld was blacked out - with no connection between exterior colors (lighter or darker) and blacking out of these areas


Basically, when judging, I want to see areas where I can tell the owner/builder followed the factory practices. So I should see areas with body color over sound deadener, body color over primer, possibly areas where there is sound deadener with no body color and if blacked out areas with black over body color. Bottom line the overspray and application needs to make sense and reproduce the factory "feel"


Oh and (to add to patty.dilabio ) don't forget the pinch weld behind the rear wheel wells also

Hope this helps

 

Chris, If it was my car I would do some black out in the wheel house area and leave some body color around the bottom edges of the wheel house in the way Jeff S described. The combination of the two would represent a more accurate representation of the way I have seen the vast majority of 67 Shelby's. Just my 2 cents.

 

Jeff and Bob:

Great info and usual.

I dont want to hijack this thread. Since were talking about body color and overspray, I posted a pic of my underside finished project. Anything you would suggest or change so far?

The tiedowns will be removed and put to the correct color.

Jim
#3000

 

Only because you asked and I do not mean any of the follow comments as demeaning your efforts, but you asked and we want to help out. At the same time I hope that others learn from our exchange (the reason to do this here with the owners invite, rather than through emails)

First I would not have used such an open primer sealer on the floor. The original stuff was an epoxy primer sealer than had a slight gloss to it (to protect the floor metal)

So what to do? In the current position you are in I would

1- Mask off the area behind the frame rail, remove the rearend bumper and lay on some body color to the top and bottom edge of the wheelwell and frame rail. Then come back and lay on some semi-gloss black (less than what you have right now) paying close attention to how it would have been applied and where the overspray would naturally travel if you made a single 14-18" pass of a spray gun.


Again this is meant as constructive comments so that you can catch things now rather than later. I really hope these comments helpful

You'll likely have to reshoot the primer/sealer in that area so you don't get a shadow when you remove and reinstall the tie downs since there were not in place when the floors were paint

BTW have not forgotten your other request need to find time to get those pictures to you

 

Hi Jeff:

I post here simply for the fact I like answers to my questions and I always know I can get it here. Open posts are my style. I have always been very open about the progress of this car. I post because I want feedback. I learn a ton of info and I know others are reading this post and learing too. I hunger for knowledge on these cars.

So, when it comes to the black pinch weld your saying more black should have gotten on the floor and ribs because of the angle it would have originally been applied?

Next, I totally get you on the wheelhouse black out. I can correct that easily now that I fully understand my error by the way you described it. I'm going to reshoot the wheel well area with color and black it out the way you described.

The trunk drop quarters look like hell in that picture. I agree. I dont have an answer about the black on the back side. Maybe the angle I sprayed. Your saying the sealer on the bottom edge would be its own sealer color like the sealer on the seatbelt anchors? No color, no primer and no black out?

Lastly the epoxy primer color. Under the red oxide is expoxy primer that went on when the car was rotisserie blasted. I had a hard time deciding which shade of red oxide to go with. Seeing so many examples and styles made it even more difficult. I posted before about color and shade. I got many answers. None were ever really concrete. Some say orange, some say pinkish, some say shine, some say flat. My painter may have an idea on how to give it more shine.

I'm happy with your suggestions. Now is the time to make the alterations. Better now before the car is rolling down the road.

Jim #3000

 

Yes as you can see from the picture above of the overspray of the pinch weld application the paint had to go somewhere and with the pressure and angle it had, pretty much, one place to go. Also consider that what remains today (the amount of back overspray) is likely IMHO maybe 70-50% of what was originally there. Just a thought

Normally it would have not traveled the full length as it makes it difficult for the other workers to install the quarter panel drain at the front and did not normally extend past the little bend up at the rear.


The sealer should just be the black sealer on top of the primer

Fully understand the conflicting info and the difficulty if you don't have access to original cars. Owners often fall back on what they see at shows and in magazines.... not the best sources IMHO. But that is what the forums are for now



On a number of cars we've taken samples (of floor sections of cars or the car in question) and had it match directly. Also if the car has been "restored" previously we can often find a car built at the same time (approx) to get an idea of the colors and patterns from that period. It's lucky in that the 65-67 cars from San Jose are pretty consistent when it comes to undercarriage color when you compare the practices done elsewhere and in later years. (if you discount a month -6 weeks period in early 65

 

Jeff,...should the brushed seam sealer [as used around the seat belt bolts] also go on the rear torq box to floor seam and from the front torq box to rear torq box along the floor to inner rocker seam?

 

That was not normal or what the worker was suppose to do (though we see it on some "restored" 67 especially those done away from the west coast)

Just simply an application of chalking along the rocker to floor pan seam from front to rear.

If you have a car that was originally done like that be sure to document but no (application along the front of the rear spring brace to floor seam) that would not IMHO be considered correct based on the thousands of 67 San Jose cars I've seen and taken photos of.

I do know of one 67 GT500 that had that seam filled on the drivers side of the car only. The worker started late (approx the first 2-3 feet of chalking was missing at the front of the seam) and it appeared that either he had to apply so many feet of the chalking or that the machine fed out a premeasured amount of chalking. In any case on that one side he continued around the front edge of the rear spring mount/brace to floor seam.