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Change out '65 289 timing cover

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by GCRIV, Nov 23, 2008.

  1. GCRIV

    GCRIV Well-Known Member

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    I have determined that my existing timing chain cover is warped pretty bad. I need to change it out, and thought I would drop the oil pan so as to not get water in there. Does anybody know if the pan can be dropped if I remove the crossmember. I have some suspension linkage in the way, and I'm not sure I can get the pan down far enough to clear the crank. Just thought I would ask someone who knows before I start, and find out the hard way that I need to pull the motor.
     
  2. OVERRIDE

    OVERRIDE Well-Known Member

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    Yes you can remove the oil pan if you remove the brace behind the oil pan.
     
  3. GCRIV

    GCRIV Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean the cross member brace, or are you talking about the steering linkage?

    Also have a question about which water pump I need. A cast iron with the back plate, or the aluminum with no plate. There appears to be a tiny weep hole at the bottom of the spot where the water pump fits. So it makes me think it takes the water pump with the back plate. However there is a small amount of corrosion in the face, making me think there was water traveling in there at one point. It is a '66 motor that didn't have a water pump when I got it. Any idea which one I need? I don't want to get the wrong one, and not have water traveling around there like it should be. However if I buy the one without the back plate, will the water just run out the supposed weep hole. Please help!
     
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  4. OVERRIDE

    OVERRIDE Well-Known Member

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    If you jack the car up and put the jack stand on the frame rail . Then let the jack down then the you will have enough room to get the pan off. The brace is round and is held in by one bolt on each side. Once you remove that you can get the oil pan off. If you drain the cooling system then you can remove the timing cover and replace it with out pulling the pan off. When you are done change your oil and what ever coolant got in the oil will come out when you drain it.

    I believe all 66 came with a cast iron water pump.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 17, 2009
  5. s2ms

    s2ms Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Mike, you shouldn't have to drop the pan to replace the timing cover. I've done this a number of times on different cars and never had a problem.

    Drain the cooling system and jack the car up in the front a little to allow any residual coolant to move towards the back of the engine. With the water pump removed you can look into the timing cover passages to see if there's any coolant still hanging around that might be a problem. Usually you can remove this with a turkey baster or something before removing the cover. If you do think any coolant dropped into the pan just change the oil but if you're careful I doubt any will.

    If your cover has the weep hole you need a cast iron pump, all 66's would have originally had a cast iron C6OE-A HiPo pump with the 3-hole, 6-vane impeller. If your existing cover has a C5OE casting number it could be the original one.

    Dave
     
  6. GCRIV

    GCRIV Well-Known Member

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    I'm confused about how the water pump with the back plate works. I haven't really studied one, but if it has a back plate, how does the water circulate. If I get the one with the back plate, and it should be the one without, what could happen?
     
  7. s2ms

    s2ms Well-Known Member

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    The back plate covers up the impeller and main pump cavity but has openings at the ends that match up with the timing cover passages for coolant circulation. I believe the gaskets are different for the different pump styles too. As long as you get a matching pump/cover combination you will be fine.
     

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