No gas getting to carb.

It sounds like the accelerator pump is not working correctly. A quick way to check is to look straight down the carb throat with a light (engine off) and pull the throttle linkage to WOT - you should see the gas streams in both primary barrels.

You said that it ran OK - the accelerator pump diaphragm may be split and hemmoraging internally which would prevent it from giving the engine the correct volume of gas.

Hope this helps

 

When he says to use a LIGHT, I am pretty sure he means to use a Flash Light of some sort and NOT a bic Lighter.................

You might also check your Float Level, it could be leaking down.

David.

 

This is where it goes to your level of comfortability. I would say that the accelerator pump would be a nice project to start with if you were so inclined. It is a squarish housing with a lever on the side of the carb held in with 4 screws.

I would say that if the accelerator pump has deteriorated - the other gaskets & such are probably in the same state. Very few parts can make a car run as good OR as bad as the carb.

If you are in it for the hobby, I'd recommend trying it yourself - get a rebuild kit and just be careful to put back all the parts It truly isn't too difficult.

That being said, if you just want to make it run - you could find a rebuilder, either local talent or someplace like PonyCarbs who specialize in these carbs.

It would be a rare set of circumstances to necessitate a new carb - they are pretty stable and very rebuildable.

oops, yes, definitely NOT a bic

Good Luck!

 

Also, check for loose or worn butterfly shaft on the primary side. I don't know if it would affect starting but it would affect the idle by allowing too much air to pass around the shaft. Look for worn venturi in the area of where the butterfly's are in the closed position, like at idle.
Mike

 

If you do decide to rebuild it yourself (I've done a few) watch out for all the little ball checks when you turn the housing over!
But when you bolt it back on and she fires up and runs nice, you get that good feeling.
The nice thing is a rebuild kit doesn't cost much, and the worse you can do is leave something off or in backwards. It's a "nothing lost - experience gained thing". If it doesn't work then you take it to someone!

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

The description and the process of elimination you followed would make me suspicious of the gas tank . I have solved many similar problems with a gas tank change out. If you changed the fuel pump make sure your getting gas to the pump. When disconnected from the fuel pump even a half full gas tank should easily flow out of the hose end that connects the gas tank to the fuel pump. I have seen gas tanks that have enough rust particles, sediment etc. that even after blowing out the line the sediment particles quickly cover the fuel sender sock again and limit the flow once the fuel pump starts the sucking process. Mustang gas tanks are cheep enough it is not worth the time ,money and hassle resealing a nasty one . I hope this helps with your problem. Bob

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

Had the same problem on my C-code Mustang and it turned out to
be a clogged sending unit filter in the tank.
Texas Swede

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

Was the engine recently rebulit too? If so, did you tighten the nut on the fuel pump ecentric on the front of the engines camshaft? Did you remember to install the ecentric?


Quick check regarding the fuel tank and lines, Get a clear glass bottle. Fill it with gas. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump. Attach a hose from the pump to the bottle of gas. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb. Run the disconnected line from the carb to another empty clear bottle. Start the car and observe the fuel being pumped into the claer bottle. If there is little or no flow you know its either the pump or the ecentric on the cam. If you have plenty of volume (fuel flow) then the problem is from the fuel pump back. This diagnosis process will save you from pulling the gas tank.
Jim

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

Maybe your new fuel pump is bad, or your lever isn't positioned correctly for the cam to operate it. You could check fuel pressure with a guage. Or do like GT350 said and use the bottles. Cheers

TommyJ

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

Did you look in a shop manual and do fuel pump test?

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

I once had a similar problem that keep me guessing for days. My car would run with gas until it would get down to 2" or 3" inches of gas left in the tank.. At first I did not notice this correlation. But soon noticed it acted like it ran out of gas with gas in the tank. I was really puzzled. It turned out to be a pin hole in the line of the pick up/fuel sending unit, at the line's base next to the installtion plate. Car would get gas until it went below this area and then it was sucking air through the pin hole instead of sucking gas through the pickup screen which is somewhat lower. Remove your pickup/sending unit and make sure it has no leaks from pickup screen to rubber hose mount on other side.

Side note is to try to always reuse an original sending unit if you can. They are much more reliable than a repro, even with 40 year head start...

Good luck? Keep safety in mind while working on this.

 

Re: No gas to carb. Checked fuel pump

well you NOT taking the advice I gave you about hooking up a rubber hose to a bottle. You need to elimainate the possiblity of it being the fuel lines, tank,pick up or sender. You need to see if the pump is working. If there is no fuel being drawn from the bottle it will be one of two things. Bad Pump, Bad ecentric. That's it that's all. This isn't modern day fuel delivery with relays, modules, regulators and computers-It's a pump, a tank and lines End of story. Your making this harder then it is.Your going from A-C, rather then A-B-C.

Also, Remove the pump, look in the hole of the block, do you see anything there? Try the method I described. Ive been a mechanic for 20 years. Its not my first Rodeo. Diagnosing is done when you do it in the proper order.

I have purchased brand new items before that were DOA right out of the box.

SAFETY NOTE: REMOVE COIL WIRE FROM COIL BEFORE STARTING MOTOR

Jim