My 67Gt500 recreation has a 66 Thunderbird 428CI in it. Running 67 390GT heads, hardened seats,pocket ported, short turn radius worked mildly, 10:5-1 trw FORGED PISTONS, Edelbrock RPM manifold, Edelbrock carb 850, MSD6A ignition, MSD billet distributor (mechanical advance). Took it to dyno today to dial it in and it has a detonation problem with the 91octane gas. Those of you running the 428 or 390's with 10.5-1, what plugs are you running? Are you running race fuel or mixing 91 and 100? Gas additives? It idles great but when you open the trottle under load it rattles. It has platinum autolite 45's in it now. We are thinking of dropping heat range a couple levels. Any experience you could share from your big block pool of knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
1st of all, take out the APP45's and put in regular 45's. MSD recommends not using any platinum plugs, You don't give your timing specs. What are they, initial & full advanced ? Which advance springs & stop bushing are you using ? I would play with the timing a bit (retard total timing & slow the rate advance, etc.) before I went to gas additiives. Z. Ray
My 68 GT 500 did the same thing had to run octane boster. The PI heads have small valves and the CC of the combustion chamber changes the comp ratio.
Dear Mr 7040, Is 91 octane the highest usually available in California? Having only fueled rental cars there I never paid attention. John
The distributor was almost full advance at about 1800 rpm, changed the springs back to 2400, changed carb seats etc, will post exact changes later today after I get all the specs. Calif. has 91 octane, but there are a few stations that you can get 100 and 114. The 100 is bout 8+ a gallon. Just got off phone with dyno folks, the engine is currently 12 degrees at idle, total timing 28 degrees. The springs in the distributor are the stiffest 24 degrees at 2400 rpm full advance at 2700 rpm (28 degrees) . Changed carb set up now have 6547 meter rods with silver springs. It idles much better than before, cam is getting 10-12 pounds vacuum at idle, 20+ pounds at 2400 rpm. Thanks for the help.
I don't want to dispute the numbers given to you by the dyno folks, but they don't add up to the MSD distributor specs. If you are truly starting off at 12 degrees then you have 4 choices of MSD advance bushings: 18 degrees: black bushing/largest diameter (plus 12 initial) = 30 total 21 degrees: blue bushing (plus 12 initial) = 33 total 25 degrees: silver bushing (plus 12 initial) = 37 total 28 degrees: red bushing/smallest diameter (plus 12 initial) = 40 total None of the msd advance bushings will give you the quoted 28 degrees total advance, if you starting out at 12 initial timing. The "28" number they are quoting to you might refer to the "28" bushing. That would give you 40 degrees total timing. Probably way too much. As far the msd advance springs go, the dyno folks say they are using the stiffest distributor springs. The stiffest MSD springs (two silver heavy springs) will not give you the total advance until 3500 to 5500 rpm, depending which advance bushing is used. To get total advance by the quoted 2700 rpm figure, you would have to be using either a heavy silver/light silver spring combination, or a lighter spring combination: 2 blue springs, or 1 blue & 1 light silver, or 2 light silver springs. Z. Ray
Thanks ZRay, After getting your post I went out and popped the distributor cap and rotor and found the following. The springs are the light silver (both) and there is no advanced stop bushing on the distributor at all. The nut is there but nothing else. I just picked up a bushing and spring set. I'm not sure how that will affect the dyno info of 12 degrees at idle and 28 total. What do you suggest for this motor. What plugs do you all run and what type of gap running with the MSD 6A box and distributor. This has been an educational adventure as the timing stuff was greek to me. Learning a lot but still have lots more to learn. The dyno guy suggests running Autolite AR33 plugs. I also have roller rockers on the valves top end. FYI I didnt have the cam info on earlier post so here it is, Lift 544 Int/Exh, 289 duration intake, 303 exhaust, 110 lobe center, 108 centerline, intake opens at 14 degree closes at 40, exhaust open 53 degree closes at 9, Donny at Chet Herbert ground the cam. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. Gurney7040
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/distributors/8594_instructions.pdf not sure if this the exact dist. that you have, but all the timing info will be the same regardless. the illustrations might help with the bushing location, etc. I use Autolite 45 in my small block, don't know if that's the right type for the big blocks. Now that you know what springs are in there, try using both heavy silver springs at first. That will slow the rate of advance dramatically, and might solve your detonation issue. You can always work your way slowly back to lighter springs as desired. I would also start with the black 18 degree (largest diameter) advance stop bushing. With 12 degree initial timing that will give you 30 degrees total timing. You can work your way up from there with the smaller bushings until you get the detonation again, then back off. Get a timing light if you don't have one already. Z. Ray