1966 GT350 Parts

Hello all, new to the site and wanting to convert my '66 Fastback into a GT350. I had a couple of questions and was hoping you all could answer them for me.

1) Who makes the best quality hood. I see alot of hoods that mid way down where the edges meet the fender it looks like the hood is "bowed" up a little. Like its too long and its just stuffed on there and it bows up. I really hate that and think it looks ugly. Would having a hood with a full steel frame underneath fix that or is it something else?

2) As on the '65-66 Mustang 2+2, the '65 GT350 came with the quarter vents in place. On the '66 models they did not? Were all '66 GT350s equiped with the quarter windows and not the vents. I hate to loose the vents (to me thats what makes these cars) but am willing to remove them to make it as acurate as possible.

3) What are the correct wheels for the car. Ive seen the 10 spoke wheels but also came across a vintage Shelby ad in an old magazine that said that for the best wheel he chose the Magnum 500. The car in the background was a white GT350. I thought only the Hertz models got those wheels. I would perfer to have them but again, for period correctness, ill deal with the 10 spokes.

4) Did the exhuast still come out under the side in '66 like on the '65 models or was it out the back like on the '67,68 and so on models? If it came out the back, what type of system was it. The old "arvinode" system or his own type?

Also, not having anything to do with the above, but i was wondering how the side rocker molding comes off. Are there a bunch of rivets holding it one or is it just glued on like todays moldings? I hate to have to fill a thousand little holes or grind down rivets. And if anyone can give me a ballpark figure on what it costs to repaint the car with stripes ide sure appreciate it. There are only a few body shops in town, of which i trust none of them, and am looking at having to take the car out of town when the time comes. Im just trying to get a IDEA of what i can expect. Doesnt need to be a $10k show car paint job, just a good oem type job. I plan on driving the car around alot, not parking it at shows.

Thank you in advance for any info, it will be GREATLY appreciated.

 

The reason i dont want to go with the '65 GT350 is because to make it period correct, i would have to remove and replace the rear seat with a fiberglass panel, use crager wheels, (which i dont like) and the car can only be White with Blue Stripes. I understand that was the only color available for the '65 Shelbys. It would be cheaper for me to do red because my car is already red, and i wouldnt have to pay extra to strip it all down and do door jams and underhood, truck etc.

 

Well that's just it, it IS original condition aside from a few extra parts in my sig below. Unrestored, documented 48,780 miles. I was just thinking as i need to replace stuff or restore the car, just swap it out for all the Shelby parts. I guess you right, I'm already tired of having to correct people for calling it a '67/68 or asking if i want to sell it, which will be never. I'll sell my first born before i sell this car!

Yeah here's a picture of what she looks like now...

 

Thanks guys. Yeah its an original C-code, c4, 2.80 open diff car. No Gt options, standard interior but does have an original rally pack gauge set.

 

Well thanks guys. You sure are alot more pleasant/respectful then some of the other forums out there. As you see it now is how i plan to keep it if i dont give it the clone job. Well, maybe a set of styled steel wheels. I have a problem with those hubcaps flying off all the time. Replacing them is getting old, annoying and expensive. Ill post some more pics later once i get her repainted and rechromed.

Btw, do you guys have a "tech section" where i can ask questions without having to be "Shelby" specific?

 

Yeah thanks again. I guess my only question would be about the choosing the right cam shaft. I know that the K-code motors used in the GT350 had factory solid lifter cams. I would like to get that nostalgic sound and as much performance as possible (low to mid range power) without having too big of a lope or being too shakey. I have Power steering and A/C so i would need a cam that would still work with both factory options. I just dont know what is the better brand i dont understand how to read specs on cams. I just look to see which one has what lope.

 

Well thats just it, i will NOT be using a solid lifter cam. My heads have pressed in studs where as the K-code heads use a screw in stud to keep them from pulling out because of the cam. I want to run a direct replacement hydrolic cam that will give more power but still have that sound. I understand that the K code cam was more of a quicker chattier lope then a lazy, long duration lope like that o a high hp drag car. Like i said i dont know how to read cam specs so i dont know which one will give me which sound. Im trying to stay away from anything TOO lopey for i dont want this thing to sound like its got a 500hp race motor in it, dont want it to sound like its got more then it really does.You know? But ill give them a call i guess. Thanks guys!

 

Yeah Z, Exactly. Haha i was just looking at that before i jumped back on the board here. How funny. Wow, if i do that and get those POWERHEADS...oh man this thing should COOK!!! Oh, i cant wait!

Btw, you have any trouble getting in at the HIPO forums? I signed up and when it told me to checkmy email there wasnt anyting there. Still isnt and vintage mustang forum wont take anyone with yahoo or hotmail, and i have both. So i guess im heck out of luck on that one.