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67 gt350 Runs and drives!!

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by 2dragpac500converts, Mar 14, 2010.

  1. Mar 14, 2010 #1
    2dragpac500converts

    2dragpac500converts Well-Known Member

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    Well, I drove it this weekend and nothing fell off. Getting pretty close. Still waiting on seat belts being redone. Time for the experts opinions.
    I know i need to install shelby tag. What have missed under hood?

    chris
     

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    2dragpac500converts, Mar 14, 2010
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 14, 2010
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  2. Mar 14, 2010 #2
    rcgt350

    rcgt350 Well-Known Member

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    Congrats. Chris,
    Looking good so far, need to see a little closer up on the engine bay pics.
    Randy
     
    rcgt350, Mar 14, 2010
    rcgt350, Mar 14, 2010
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  3. Mar 14, 2010 #3
    s2ms

    s2ms Well-Known Member

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    Chris,

    Looks nice! The one thing I noticed is the valve covers appear to be repops or late Ford service replacements. They have the more oval cutouts for the bolt holes (most visible on the bottom) instead of the OE square type cutouts.

    Dave
     
    s2ms, Mar 14, 2010
    s2ms, Mar 14, 2010
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  4. Mar 15, 2010 #4
    2dragpac500converts

    2dragpac500converts Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tip. I did not know that. I have an orig. set but they needed to be restored. Guess i have something to add to the to do list.

    thanks chris
     
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 15, 2010
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 15, 2010
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  5. Mar 15, 2010 #5
    roddster

    roddster Well-Known Member

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    Nice. All I see missing was the tune decal on the coil/coil bracket. And, contact Jeff Speegle for the "Battery Ok" decal. He makes the correct ones with the correct OEM paper and all.
    Bob G will suggest the ammeter wrap be cut back a little, like 4".
    Early car no? Sub #400 I think or so.

    Jeff hangs out at the Saacforum more often.
     
    roddster, Mar 15, 2010
    roddster, Mar 15, 2010
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  6. Mar 15, 2010 #6
    2dragpac500converts

    2dragpac500converts Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I have really learned alot about early 67's doing this car. I Blasted the original valve covers tonight and sprayed the wrinkle paint. Will do the fins tommorrow night. I have the decal kit from e.c.s. jsut been waiting till all the bugs are worked out. Where the heck is Bob? I maybe could slide the wrap back a little. When doing i thought it was short and tried to stretch it to go further. I did not know if it ran inside all the way to the gauges. The car is #18


    thanks chris
     
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 15, 2010
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 15, 2010
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  7. Mar 15, 2010 #7
    Snakepit

    Snakepit Well-Known Member

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    Resolution isn't great in the pictures so forgive me if I "see" something that isn't there ;)

    Does the black engine compartment paint at the firewall end of the fender lip have a sharp (tapped) edge or a soft (no masking tape) edge? Should be a soft one

    Are number 7 and 8 spark plug wires routed next to one another?

    Are there three staples holding each radiator clamp to the hose?

    Is there sealant at every (except for the Shelby wires) hole and mounting screw/nut on the firewall except for the engine ground strap (common mistake not to have any, right locations or enough)


    Looking good
     
    Snakepit, Mar 15, 2010
    Snakepit, Mar 15, 2010
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  8. Mar 15, 2010 #8
    Bob Gaines

    Bob Gaines Well-Known Member

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    here are some early car engine shots where among other things you can see the amp gauge wire spiral wrap that Rod was talking about.Bob
     

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    Bob Gaines, Mar 15, 2010
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  9. Mar 16, 2010 #9
    2dragpac500converts

    2dragpac500converts Well-Known Member

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    There you guys are. My technique when i sprayed Engine compartment was to mask and then i folded back with a soft curve 1 1/2 masking tape . Up close it has a fuzzy edge. Do you think that is enough?
    The wires are 7 in front and 8 in back. MY son did that. He's learning aswell.
    I do not have staples in hoses. ( something to fix.) The bottom was n.o.s. and did not have staples or clamps,but top does not have any aswell.
    I sprayed sealant on all places where wiring runs thru,clutch,speedo,wiper hose, heater hose. Did not where firewall pad retainers show or where choke cable. Should i ?

    Thanks for advice. chris
     
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 16, 2010
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 16, 2010
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  10. Mar 20, 2010 #10
    Shelby~gt350#3000

    Shelby~gt350#3000 Well-Known Member

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    Chris:

    Looking great! Job well done!

    Jim
    #3000
     
    Shelby~gt350#3000, Mar 20, 2010
    Shelby~gt350#3000, Mar 20, 2010
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  11. Mar 20, 2010 #11
    66gtk

    66gtk Well-Known Member

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    Wow, that looks really nice. You should feel proud.
     
    66gtk, Mar 20, 2010
    66gtk, Mar 20, 2010
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  12. Mar 21, 2010 #12
    2dragpac500converts

    2dragpac500converts Well-Known Member

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    O.K.. I took my orig. valves covers restored and installed them. Moved the wire wrap back like in the photo that bob posted. I was looking at that photo and noticed the decal on top of the right apron. Is that the battery check decal? Do you guys see anything else that needs to be corrected. Still wondering if i put sealer around the retainers for the firewall pad and choke cable were they come thru the firewall.

    chris
     

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    2dragpac500converts, Mar 21, 2010
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  13. Mar 21, 2010 #13
    s2ms

    s2ms Well-Known Member

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    Chris,

    The original valve covers look great! Looks like you are using a hex base PCV valve from the one pic. Those were replaced sometime during 66 production with the round base non-servicable valve so I'm pretty certain your 67 should have a round valve with C6AE or C7AE number stamped on the valve body.

    Dave
     
    s2ms, Mar 21, 2010
    s2ms, Mar 21, 2010
    #13
  14. Mar 22, 2010 #14
    2dragpac500converts

    2dragpac500converts Well-Known Member

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    Dave, I have that one. It was in the orig. valve cover. I did not see any c6 or c7 part number on it and thought it was inccorrect. Do i use a white round lable when i switch to round style.


    chris
     
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 22, 2010
    2dragpac500converts, Mar 22, 2010
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  15. Mar 22, 2010 #15
    s2ms

    s2ms Well-Known Member

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    Chris,

    Possibly the one in the original cover is an aftermarket replacement, I'm pretty sure you should have one with a C6 or C7 number.

    As far as the label I believe the round white one with red lettering is correct. That is what I've seen with NOS valves and IIRC is also assembly line OE correct. I think it's OK with or without the label for show purposes but will let the judges answer that.

    Sent you a PM on the PCV valve....

    Dave
     
    s2ms, Mar 22, 2010
    s2ms, Mar 22, 2010
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