for those in Detroit area like Richard V, call ARESCO. They are reasonably priced, have high quality products, install in no time and service if needed is quick. I have at least 6 friends with Aresco lifts and they all are very satisfied. They were not in business locally when i installed my lifts. their site is : http://www.aresco.org/new_page_1.htm and to restate my prior posting of things to consider for adding lifts, i add the following as a repeat : I have a two post ROTARY brand assymetrical column hoist and a 4 post STINGER brand drive on hoist. some quick comparisions after about 10 yrs using ea: TWO POST: generally requires much more ceiling height, 6-8" of floor thickness, is bolted to the floor, comes in symmetrical or assymetrical column choices, to my knowledge requires 220v (30 amp for mine), is more limiting generally in frame clearance for pick up points ( low slung cars, side pipe cars, small framed cars etc might need to be driven onto pieces of wood for the 'two swing arms' to fit under the pick up points) . a great lift if you are going to constantly detail the underside of your car, front fender wells behind the wheels and frequently r/r your wheels and tires or do a significant amount of suspension work. columns generally require, on most of the hoists, ceiling hts of 10-14 feet depending on lift capacity and brand. you have much more freedom for access of all undersides of the car as it is not blocked by rails that your car sits on with a 4 poster. symetrical columns place the car door at about 50/5o front to rear so caution needs to be used when opening the doors so they dont hit the columns. assymetrical places the car at 1/3-2/3 prox so the doors will miss the columns if car is placed properly and depending on the car. for my SNO 57 Bird this hoist works great for attention to undercarriage detail etc for shows as suspension/wheels are free hanging. for my cobra replica and 65 mustang with side pipes it aint so hot as placement of the arms is difficult and can squeeze the suspension pieces. also, if you are going to store a car underneath it, the free hanging tires reduces the height of the car going underneath as the top might hit the rear wheels driving on vs a 4 poster where you have more clearance. FOUR POST: much easier to use, just drive on. should require only standard 4" of concrete. can be bolted to the floor but does not need to be. wheels can be ordered that attach on temp basis allowing hoist to be moved with or without a car on it. can be powered with 110 or 220 power. column heights are less than 7' , usually 6' . low slung cars can get on , if needed there are longer drive on removable ramps available allowing cars of only 3" clearance, or with pronounced front air dams to still clear. 'jacking trays' can be ordered allowing you to jack up the car while on the hoist using a bottle jack and then jack stands for brake/susp/tire change work etc. at full lift ht you have more 'headroom' underneath for storing another car there ,see reference above to wheels hanging down on a 2 post. this is my hoist of choice . CAUTIONS : remember to allow plenty of clearance overhead so car does not go boom into obstructions : things generally over a car stall such as garage door track (move it to the side), ceiling lights, low ceiling with door lower when opened (get a 'high lift kit' and snug it up to the ceiling). however, you can still fit many two cars in a lowered ceiling. my 2 poster is under a 11-1/2' ht and my 4 poster under a 9-1/2' ht and i can still park many combos of two cars over each other. in fact, i fit 5 cars into a 3 car garage by stacking 2 over 2. remember when measuring for clearances to measure the highest points, top bow or ht is higher than windhshield header. a stock antennae adds a couple of more inches. i put power antennaes on 2 of my cars to get more clearance. sometimes a car can be backed onto the ramp getting more garage door clearance, ie, longer hood fits better under the door when opened than short front end and windshield. also, most mfrs tell you to measure the ht of each vehicle and add 4" (normal 4 post cross member dimension) to determine clearances. many of them forget to tell you to add another 2" for clearance AND the ability to raise the car up off the stop enough that the locking pins will clear the safety stops. I fit a new Taurus and /or new model Mustang under either my 65 Stang or Cobra replica under the 9-1/2' ceiling ht, while the lift can not go to full ht due to the ceiling interference, i can still duck down enough to walk around under the car, ala a little hunchbacked. 6 footers would have to hunch more, but you do not need 10' or more ht to fit in a hoist. my guess is 10-1/2' ceiling ht with no overhead obstructions is great for most car applications. 11' to 11-1/2' and you could probably lift a panel truck to full 6' lift capacity. good luck with your choice. once you get one you will wish you had done it sooner. no more aching backs working on tires or waxing, just raise/lower the car to your preferred ht and work straight armed in front of you....working /detailing underneath ? just get a stool or chair on wheels and lower the car above you to an easy to reach ht while scooting around on the chair underneath....Bill Wells -----Original Message----- From: VanderHeide, Richard [mailto:rvanderh@med.wayne.edu] Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 8:30 AM To: Clill8567@aol.com; RSANTER@aol.com; MikeLDrew@aol.com; ShelbyMustang@carmemories.com Subject: RE: Car lifts Thanks for the information. I have heard good things about the Backyard. Prices are up and don't include shipping but they assure me that two guys can put it together in an afternoon. Anyone try to put one together? Is this claim feasible? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- From: Clill8567@aol.com Sent: Tue 8/30/2005 11:34 PM To: RSANTER@aol.com; MikeLDrew@aol.com; ShelbyMustang@carmemories.com Subject: Re: Car lifts I have had a Backyard Buddy for several years. The way it is constructed makes me feel safe while under it. I can just drive onto it and have the car up in the air in a minute. A two post lift you are positioning 4 separate feet to lift the car. Too much margin for error if you get in a hurry. I have a sliding jack on my lift so I can raise almost any part of the car. Yes if you are doing certain suspension things the 4 post ramps get in the way but 95% of what I am doing under the car is oil changes, cleaning, checking things, pulling trans and changing clutch, bleeding brakes. The Backyard Buddy also is free standing. You can attach the dolly wheels and move it outside if you want to pressure wash under the car. A two post has to be fastened to the slab and you better have a good thick slab. My two cents... -Charley, 67 # 544
Bill: That is the most comprehensive practical review of car lifts that I have come across. I am not even contemplating buying one, but I saved this information in a file to use if the need ever arises. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wells To: VanderHeide, Richard ; Clill8567@aol.com ; RSANTER@aol.com ; MikeLDrew@aol.com ; ShelbyMustang@carmemories.com Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 8:35 AM Subject: RE: Car lifts for those in Detroit area like Richard V, call ARESCO. They are reasonably priced, have high quality products, install in no time and service if needed is quick. I have at least 6 friends with Aresco lifts and they all are very satisfied. They were not in business locally when i installed my lifts. their site is : http://www.aresco.org/new_page_1.htm and to restate my prior posting of things to consider for adding lifts, i add the following as a repeat : I have a two post ROTARY brand assymetrical column hoist and a 4 post STINGER brand drive on hoist. some quick comparisions after about 10 yrs using ea: TWO POST: generally requires much more ceiling height, 6-8" of floor thickness, is bolted to the floor, comes in symmetrical or assymetrical column choices, to my knowledge requires 220v (30 amp for mine), is more limiting generally in frame clearance for pick up points ( low slung cars, side pipe cars, small framed cars etc might need to be driven onto pieces of wood for the 'two swing arms' to fit under the pick up points) . a great lift if you are going to constantly detail the underside of your car, front fender wells behind the wheels and frequently r/r your wheels and tires or do a significant amount of suspension work. columns generally require, on most of the hoists, ceiling hts of 10-14 feet depending on lift capacity and brand. you have much more freedom for access of all undersides of the car as it is not blocked by rails that your car sits on with a 4 poster. symetrical columns place the car door at about 50/5o front to rear so caution needs to be used when opening the doors so they dont hit the columns. assymetrical places the car at 1/3-2/3 prox so the doors will miss the columns if car is placed properly and depending on the car. for my SNO 57 Bird this hoist works great for attention to undercarriage detail etc for shows as suspension/wheels are free hanging. for my cobra replica and 65 mustang with side pipes it aint so hot as placement of the arms is difficult and can squeeze the suspension pieces. also, if you are going to store a car underneath it, the free hanging tires reduces the height of the car going underneath as the top might hit the rear wheels driving on vs a 4 poster where you have more clearance. FOUR POST: much easier to use, just drive on. should require only standard 4" of concrete. can be bolted to the floor but does not need to be. wheels can be ordered that attach on temp basis allowing hoist to be moved with or without a car on it. can be powered with 110 or 220 power. column heights are less than 7' , usually 6' . low slung cars can get on , if needed there are longer drive on removable ramps available allowing cars of only 3" clearance, or with pronounced front air dams to still clear. 'jacking trays' can be ordered allowing you to jack up the car while on the hoist using a bottle jack and then jack stands for brake/susp/tire change work etc. at full lift ht you have more 'headroom' underneath for storing another car there ,see reference above to wheels hanging down on a 2 post. this is my hoist of choice . CAUTIONS : remember to allow plenty of clearance overhead so car does not go boom into obstructions : things generally over a car stall such as garage door track (move it to the side), ceiling lights, low ceiling with door lower when opened (get a 'high lift kit' and snug it up to the ceiling). however, you can still fit many two cars in a lowered ceiling. my 2 poster is under a 11-1/2' ht and my 4 poster under a 9-1/2' ht and i can still park many combos of two cars over each other. in fact, i fit 5 cars into a 3 car garage by stacking 2 over 2. remember when measuring for clearances to measure the highest points, top bow or ht is higher than windhshield header. a stock antennae adds a couple of more inches. i put power antennaes on 2 of my cars to get more clearance. sometimes a car can be backed onto the ramp getting more garage door clearance, ie, longer hood fits better under the door when opened than short front end and windshield. also, most mfrs tell you to measure the ht of each vehicle and add 4" (normal 4 post cross member dimension) to determine clearances. many of them forget to tell you to add another 2" for clearance AND the ability to raise the car up off the stop enough that the locking pins will clear the safety stops. I fit a new Taurus and /or new model Mustang under either my 65 Stang or Cobra replica under the 9-1/2' ceiling ht, while the lift can not go to full ht due to the ceiling interference, i can still duck down enough to walk around under the car, ala a little hunchbacked. 6 footers would have to hunch more, but you do not need 10' or more ht to fit in a hoist. my guess is 10-1/2' ceiling ht with no overhead obstructions is great for most car applications. 11' to 11-1/2' and you could probably lift a panel truck to full 6' lift capacity. good luck with your choice. once you get one you will wish you had done it sooner. no more aching backs working on tires or waxing, just raise/lower the car to your preferred ht and work straight armed in front of you....working /detailing underneath ? just get a stool or chair on wheels and lower the car above you to an easy to reach ht while scooting around on the chair underneath....Bill Wells -----Original Message----- From: VanderHeide, Richard [mailto:rvanderh@med.wayne.edu] Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 8:30 AM To: Clill8567@aol.com; RSANTER@aol.com; MikeLDrew@aol.com; ShelbyMustang@carmemories.com Subject: RE: Car lifts Thanks for the information. I have heard good things about the Backyard. Prices are up and don't include shipping but they assure me that two guys can put it together in an afternoon. Anyone try to put one together? Is this claim feasible? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Clill8567@aol.com Sent: Tue 8/30/2005 11:34 PM To: RSANTER@aol.com; MikeLDrew@aol.com; ShelbyMustang@carmemories.com Subject: Re: Car lifts I have had a Backyard Buddy for several years. The way it is constructed makes me feel safe while under it. I can just drive onto it and have the car up in the air in a minute. A two post lift you are positioning 4 separate feet to lift the car. Too much margin for error if you get in a hurry. I have a sliding jack on my lift so I can raise almost any part of the car. Yes if you are doing certain suspension things the 4 post ramps get in the way but 95% of what I am doing under the car is oil changes, cleaning, checking things, pulling trans and changing clutch, bleeding brakes. The Backyard Buddy also is free standing. You can attach the dolly wheels and move it outside if you want to pressure wash under the car. A two post has to be fastened to the slab and you better have a good thick slab. My two cents... -Charley, 67 # 544
