Changing out oil pans. Any particuliar brand of gasket better or worse than the others. Appears from other ford websites that traditional cork gaskets are pretty much old technology and eventually swell and leaks develop. thoughts?
Dave, it depends on what you are doing. For restoration you want the look /texture of cork regardless if painted or not. For a driver car or late model you want the modern materials.
Hi Dave, Just a reminder that so often it is not the gasket that is a problem-It is the poor preparation of the sealing surfaces that causes a leak.The new design gaskets are excellent yet can still leak if not properly installed on clean surfaces.The best example I can give is the person in a hurry that uses an air powered type surface prep wheel that is available is several textures and grit styles.These will ruin machined surfaces.They have a useful purpose....but not for a precision machined surface that is flat.(They will round off edges that should be flat)The other part is thread and fastener preparation and installation.It is critical to clean all threads of the engine and the attaching bolts,and this means hospital clean,and dry.Any major brand is decent...I normally use Fel-pro and follow the directions they have.Often they will have a choice between cork and neoprene so choose what works best for your application.Use a torque wrench and be patient. P.D.
thanks for the advice on preparation. I picked up the new materials Fel Pro but it was folded in half (original packaging). I have always seen and used gaskets that laid flat in the packaging. Does anyone have experience with these folded Fel Pro #1817's for the 428?
If you are not in a hurry unfold it and lay it on the bench for awhile, then cover it with large piece of cardboard and add a heavy book. It won't be perfect but will be close. I suggest a little dab of sealer where the rear main cap meets the block and where the timing cover meets the block. Remeber depending on your application if you are running a windage try you will need 2 gaskets.
The best installation for a new gasket is to unfold it, lay it on the bench, use a heat gun, do not overheat it! It will relax and you can start your installation. I run a a CJ windage tray and a Cobra oil pan, so I run a bead of the "right stuff" around the inside edge of the windage tray, allow the sealer to "tack up" just slightly. install the gasket. Do the same for the other side of the tray and attach the gasket. Put the pan bolts through the bolt holes to keep the gasket aligned. Now put a small bead of sealer on the pan and block, keeping the sealer on the inside edge of the pan, apply to the block as well, paying attention to assure you run a small bead at the timing cover and also at the rear main cap sides. Remove the bolts from the windage tray, set the tray on the pan and lift to the block, trying not to smear the sealant. Start a bolt on either side of the front of the block and on either side of the main cap area. install the balance of the bolts around the pan perimeter, noting that the short bolts are installed at the rear main cap. Snug all the bolts down, working back and forth down the pan rails. In the same crisscross fashion, torque the bolts to 14 ft pounds. I have yet to ever have a pan leak following that sequence. -Dan
