67 shelby taillight/scoop installation help.

Well, if you get this wrong, you'll have fumes in the car. So, most of us here are also forum members at www.SAACforum.com Go to the 67 Shelby section and do a seach. This comes up often.
There are 2 different sealers you use. And, the thing to make sure is that the corners that you can't see inside the tail light fiberglass panel yet out side the metal Mustang tail light panel are sealed closed.

Open of the sealers is clear silicone. You also mount/seal the side scoops with this (Concours correct). Put a bead on the scoop, hold it on the car to smusch it out. snug down the fasteners. Wipe off the excess with a wet rag.

 

Also after help from other saac forum members on getting my '67 back together the popular vote was to mount everything to the fiberglass panel and then mount the whole assembly onto the car. I did this and then sealed the panel to the body as described. Without proper sealing you will get fumes coming in.
Don't forget to use the proper rivets. They are 1/8", black and AMK sells them, labeled in a bag part #F3290 Taillamp panel (Shelby) Black Blind Rivets - 8, for this use.
Here is one link to look at: http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=13289.0
Clarence

 

Rodster:
The factory manual calls for GE RTV108 Silicone. It is not water soluble and a down right nasty, sticky and stinky product. As a matter of fact it's also a heavy adhesive. If you use this product, you won't get the scoops off without the paint coming off with it. You'll also have to use a solvent to remove any that squeezes out. Not something you want to do on a fresh paint job, even one that is relatively new. The adhesives called for are SA60001 and SA60002. One is RTV108, I can't find a reference for the other, which I just posed that question today.
I noticed there were no clamps on my brake ducts hoses, so did they use RTV108 to seal the hoses to the inlet and outlet?
Anyway, I am hoping I can get some answers so I can start buttoning the interior up.

 

The taillight panel on a 67 Shelby from the factory typically uses the strip caulk material not rtv. 68 and 69/70 Shelby tail panels also used the same strip caulk. Clear silicone is a adhesive but isn't as aggressive to the paint like you seem to think. It does not pull the paint off when used on scoops. If you pull the scoops off after unbolting the silicone will pull apart long before any paint comes off unless you have bad paint prep. in which case masking tape would do the same. You are reading too much into the scoop process . The silicone is added as I described AFTER the scoop is installed not sandwiched inbetween. The silicone is in fact it is better to use then weatherstrip adhesive if having to use on the backs of emblems because of broken pins etc. because if you have to take emblems off you can cut through the silicone with a sharp "plastic" putty knife which FYI will not harm the paint. Also denatured alcohol will clean up excess silicone if it hasn't set up yet. FYI the alcohol is a good product to use to get things squeakily clean before any adhesive There shouldn't be clean up if you follow my tape on both sides of seam instruction and are careful when taking the tape off. This is not only the historic correct way but also the easiest and one of the fastest ways too. Just another reason why SA did that way too.

 

On a separate subject as Rod pointed out exhaust fumes seeping into the trunk through the Shelby tail panel is a 67 Shelby common complaint. To seal up properly you have to go above and beyond anything the factory did . Most use extra amounts of strip caulk to seal from the trunk side around the pop off gas cap bezel which is the worst place that it comes in.