1967 GT 500 Dual Quad gaskets

Paper gaskets only was factory. Spacers/insulators are commonly added by P/O for the purpose of insulating the carb from heat as much as possible. Ether paper gasket will work with the four hole being the best one given no intake mods.

 

My first time posting. I have a question along the same lines. I am in the process of a rebuild my 67 GT500. It has been 30 years since being driven. It ran pretty hot as I remember. I pulled the BJ/BK dual quads and found the gaskets to the intake thicker than those in the Holley kit (.075" vs .02"). It have been an attempt to limit the heat. Does anyone have suggestions on options and where I could get thicker gaskets or insulators? I have heard of insulating the fuel log mounts also but am not sure if it works. Thanks , JJ

 

As we all know by now, Ford/Shelby simply used a paper gasket. I didn't machine the C7ZX manifold, and yes, these things run hot as hell.
I know the historically correct/ Concourse guys cringe when we break from way they the came off assembly line, but as quantities dwindle of period correct blocks and components one has to weigh a few things if they want a vehicle they actually intend to drive and enjoy.
I have elected to use the 1968 phenolic spacer. They are about .250 ( 1/4") thick. It made a 40 degree difference in heat transfer to the carburetor base plate when they were tested on my 427 that was broke in on a dyno. That should translate into not only horsepower, but perhaps slightly better mileage. Without a doubt much easier starting after being ran.

In my personal opinion, I want to enjoy and preserve what I have spent thousands of dollars on. I don't want a museum piece. You can have the best of both worlds with a few changes. This one just seems to be common sense if you're planning on any real use.

Here's the link for the Phenolic .250 spacer. It's a '68 ford item.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/68fecarbspace.html

 

If you are building a concours correct show car you build it the factory way. If you want to optimize you driving enjoyment then you have to make some compromises especially with a 67 GT500. Use the carb insulators . The fuel log is heated by the block and is great for boiling gas. Forget about insulating the fuel log. Instead get a repro fuel log and cut off the tabs that are bolted down to the intake. I would never advocate doing this on a original fuel log.if you don't know how to tell start a new thread for the benefit reasons of others later doing a search and I will be glad to explain. The cut off fuel log is adequately supported by the metal fuel line an the rubber hoses to carbs. This along with a 68-70 style radiator and 160 degree high flow thermostat (mr Gasket) will help in making your driving experience the more trouble free. I hope this helps.

 

Bob covered a point I failed to mention. The fuel log is also problematic when it comes to vapor lock. I will see if I can find a picture, but years go Ford Power Parts offered a fuel log that utilized a rubber insulator that wrapped around the fuel log and the stands slid onto the ends of the log and bolted to the manifold in the normal fashion. I have yet to see one since the mid 80's.

 

You guys are good. The 1/4" spacer looks like the route to go. I checked the link for the 68 phonelic part. Since it is not factory ,
I looked at other aftermarket parts. Canton makes a 1/4" spacer for 4160 holley units.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing...5&cadevice=c&gclid=CKigjJe69sMCFUo6gQodG6wA0w


I would like to hear anything else you have to say about the fuel log. I have had the radiator recored, it has more passages and should allow a little more flow. The previous owner had replaced the water pump with a later year model , 69 or 70 , I think. I have read they had a little better flow. I remember having to wait for the car to cool down before I could restart at times.

I bought replacement radiator hoses and the lower did not have the spring inside. Any leads on where to get a spring or a hose with it installed?

Thanks for the help.

 

NPD ir Virginia Mustang sell the spring seperatly. Water factory water pumps flow the same . In 1970 they went to a bigger bearing which made them last longer. To eliminate the starter drag completely get one of the gear reduced starters like tilton . Comprimises to eliminate problems.