66 gt350 axle limiting cables.

Support the unibody and let the rear end hang. Snug the limiting cables so that they will be taut at a little less then full hang (jounce?) before crimping cable fitting. Pictures of car on lift with rear hanging. I assume your GT350 H has overides since the limiting cables were not used on the cars with under ride traction bars. I hope this helps. Bob

 

I am not sure your car came with limiting cables. Very few 66 cars received them. Mostly override t-bar cars were more likely to get them. One way to tell if your car had them the axle bumper would be removed and a eyelet put in place to loop the cable like the 65 cars. If the bumper has not been cut off your car it didn't likely receive the cables. Here are a couple of photos if you can use them. May be a topic for a new thread.




First 2 images are 66
last two are 65

 

Our G.T.350H is # 817 and it has overrides and had axle limiting cables. The eye-bolts are still in place.

 

6S923 has under rides and probably had limiting cables
as the eye-bolts are still there. Car never restored.
Texas Swede

 

Here are a couple of pictures of 6S923 Axle Limiting Cable
eye-bolt. The car is being restored at present and the
question is if the cables shall be installed or not.
Looks like they were there originally even with under-ride
Traction Masters.
Texas Swede

 

First these are meant in a friendly way and in the spirit of sharing. Some are as much questions/thoughts as right or wrong comments

Secondly it very easy to see you have spent allot of time working on this project... nice work, it shows.

And lastly I have to commend you on offering up your work and efforts to input.



1- What is the finish on the welded in rear end bumpers? Hard to tell from the angle.

2- I would have added the 1/2" wide chalking on the bottom edge of the rear trunk drop to quarter panel joint (inside surface)

3- Not sure what number car this is but , if it was one of mine, I would ahve used stripes rather than spray identifiers on the rear springs.

4- Was the "921" something you found on your car? Same goes for the yellow dots on the bottom of the rear shock/spring plates.

5- Is the wheel well sound deadener over the body color??

6- Did you do the pinch weld black out? Can't make out any over spray on the bottom of the car.

7- Would lighten up the finish on the rear spring clamps. Springs would have been dark heat treated in look and the clamps a lighter natural bare steel

8- H pipe looks like its clamped to the adapters and originally there would be no clamps at the rear of the mufflers

9- Does the gas tank have a drain?



Again, nice work. Take or leave what every you want from my comments and questions

 

Jeff, do you have an idea of which cars got stripes and which got daubs? I ask because I still have the original rear springs for 1757. One spring has stripes, the other has daubs.

 

Believe it was a supplier (differ ones) thing.

No don't have enough data from San Jose to draw a line. Just observations that I see more dotes on Dearborn and more stripes on San Jose cars in 66. In 65 more dotes at San Jose

 

Must have had a real problem (most owners do) spraying all the ugly sealer around the firewall connections and holes


Its only a single little line

Originally the pinch weld black out guy (if done on this car as allot of cars were left with body color rear wheelwells) would have done this with semi-gloss black. Often its overspray (again if done) also streached to the rear frame rail behind the wheel well and to the gas tank drop at the front corners. The black spot on the rear frame rail can also be produced from the guy doing the pinch weld on the rear section behind the wheel since its seen on cars where the rear wheel well was not blacked out. (seen on approx 98% of San Jose cars that I've seen)


While we are on paint.... are any of your rear valance mounting screws (along the top edge) painted body color???

Never seen the yellow dotes at San Jose in 66 - the reason I asked

Didn't see allot of black overspray on the frame rails and floor - must be the angle


These might help

Your welcome...... its always about choices

 

I would like to reinforce the points Jeff made plus emphasize that your H pipe should look like the picture Jeff provided and the generic type clamps were used in the middle of the H pipe and where it connects to the intermediate pipes . The only Ford style saddle clamps should be at the intermediate pipe hangers and connection to the tips only. I couldn't see the sealer on the backside of the rocker on the driver side if it was there. Good Job. Bob

 

I think there is no better alternative but to start over in regards to the H pipe. It is not a big job. Jeff provided a excellent picture to go by . It is a relative simple design. If after showing that picture to a muffler shop and they felt they might have a problem duplicating such a simple design you would have no business letting them close to your car. Now saying that of course whatever shop you use would need to fit the H pipe to the individual car for best fit. It would be too much to expect that a H pipe could be made up from a picture and have it to fit perfectly with out the car it was going on. I have a shop that makes them up for me but I always provide the car for the best fit. Back in the day they were made in a jig in mass and whether they fit or not (exhaust leak) they were installed .

 

The sealer would have have normally been applied around the floor brace as shown in the picture at San Jose and because of the angle the paint was applied there is rarely (from my observations only) any paint in its general location (pinch weld formed a pretty good spray mask)

Though Jim Cowles mad/had them.

You might consider just replacing the H pipe. Clamp it to the rest of the system you have (looks like you would need to replace the long sections as they are formed incorrectly) and remove the muffler clamps and weld the pipe at those locations. Not sure if any one is making good looking resisnators currently