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GT-350 Euro road trip report

Discussion in 'Shelby Mustang List' started by MikeLDrew@aol.com, Jun 3, 2005.

  1. Hi guys,

    It=92s been awhile since my last road trip report. I spent the better part=20=
    of=20
    the winter flying for the Air Force Reserve in an attempt to rebuild my bank=
    =20
    account, which took a pretty serious shelling during last year=92s prolonged=
    =20
    European adventures. In this, I was only moderately successful, but I wasn=
    =92t=20
    about to let that stop me from playing cars again this year!

    My season actually began with a drive in my 427 Cobra replica to the annual=20
    Pantera Owners Club of America Las Vegas Fun Rally back in April. After mon=
    ths=20
    of preparation, the car was in tip-top shape as I left the house, but then=20
    slowly fell apart like a soup sandwich during the course of the weekend, and=
    I=20
    only made it home after replacing a busted pushrod and rocker arm. So, with=
    =20
    the Cobra now looking very tired and decrepit and demanding attention to the=
    =20
    engine, clutch, exhaust, windshield, electrical system, and steering systems=
    , I=20
    decided that the prudent thing to do would be to turn my back on it and go o=
    n=20
    another vacation!

    And so it was that after flying a quick trip with the Air Force (gotta earn=20
    some bread to try to pay for all of that), I returned home to do laundry and=
    =20
    answer the mail, then packed my bags and headed for England.

    Some of you may recall my description of the RAC Euroclassic, the vintage ca=
    r=20
    rally that I ran last year in my GT-350 clone with my British friend, George=
    =20
    Gordon-Smith. The route took us through France, Switzerland, Monaco and end=
    ed=20
    up in Italy, and featured spectacular driving on deserted roads combined wit=
    h=20
    tours of auto museums and the opportunity to drive on various racetracks.

    This year=92s Euroclassic was moved from the fall to the spring, as the=20
    organizers are also responsible for staging the British Formula One Grand Pr=
    ix and=20
    the British round of the World Rally Championship, and thus their plate gets=
    =20
    pretty full later in the season.

    Their credentials should be obvious to see, and one of the principal reasons=
    =20
    I like to participate in this event is the extreme professionalism of the=20
    entire thing. From a comprehensive route book that even a child could follo=
    w, to=20
    the excellent accommodations, and the supreme talent of the dozen or so=20
    mechanics who follow along and try to fix any cars that happen to have issue=
    s, the=20
    event is truly a marvel to behold, much less participate in.

    This year=92s route covered uncharted territory, aiming for Denmark and Swed=
    en.=20
    Now, those might not seem like obvious locations for driving enthusiasts,=20
    but with Volvo Cars coming on board as an event sponsor, a trip to Sweden wa=
    s=20
    more or less preordained.

    Anyway, I flew to London a few days early, both to ensure that I would in=20
    fact make it there in time for the event=92s start (as I fly standby, and th=
    us=20
    can=92t be assured of a seat on a given flight), and also to enable me to he=
    lp my=20
    Mustang=92s host with his ongoing Pantera restoration.

    Upon my arrival early in the morning, I was picked up by Geoff in his daily=20
    driver Bentley (they are surprisingly cheap over there, secondhand, and deli=
    ver=20
    the most bang for the buck of any car on the road), and soon found myself=20
    back at his house and hard at work. My first job was to install the=20
    reconditioned brake calipers--except that new caliper mounting bolts had bee=
    n forgotten=20
    and the old ones were buried in a giant pile of trash hardware. Eventually=20=
    it=20
    was all sorted out, but it took substantially longer than we=92d planned.

    On the second day, John Woods was wiring up the dash and Geoff was working o=
    n=20
    the MSD ignition system. He broke one of the studs off his coil, so he had=20
    to rob a coil from his Rover V-8 powered MG drophead. By late in the evenin=
    g,=20
    we were ready for the big moment.

    Turn the key, pump the gas and VAROOM followed immediately by expensive=20
    grinding noises and SMOKE coming from the bellhousing.

    Hmm. That doesn=92t sound right.

    We shut everything down, scratched our heads and pondered the situation. =20
    Clearly, something was broken, but what?

    We gave up in disgust and called it a night. The next morning, John and I=20
    took it upon ourselves to yank the transmission back out to see what was wro=
    ng. =20
    Expecting carnage, instead we found everything looking pristine.

    George Gordon-Smith had arrived by now, and it was time to leave, so I left=20
    John to the project and we headed down the road (it was later discovered tha=
    t=20
    the starter was defective or incorrect, and wasn=92t disengaging after the e=
    ngine=20
    started. Thankfully the ring gear was unhurt but the starter took a bit of=20=
    a=20
    beating). Throughout the event, George and I would take turns driving and=20
    navigating, and also share the track-driving duties.

    George and I drove in a very light rain to the coastal town of Harwich, whic=
    h=20
    I was pointedly informed is not pronounced =93Harwich=94 as you might imagin=
    e,=20
    but instead is called =93Harrich=94 for reasons that were never adequately e=
    xplained.

    It is there that we were scheduled for an overnight ferry which would deposi=
    t=20
    us in Esberg, Denmark. When we arrived, the dock was already filled with=20
    classic cars of every description--fellow participants all. We reacquainted=
    =20
    ourselves with several people we remembered from last year=92s event, and on=
    e new=20
    team as well. Imagine my surprise as I pulled into the lot and looked in my=
    =20
    mirror and found an Ivy Green =9167 Mustang fastback behind me! This more-o=
    r-less=20
    Bullit clone was being driven by a pair of British gents, and was equipped=20
    with a moderately pumped up 289, five-speed, and Total Control power rack an=
    d=20
    pinion steering.

    Once loaded on the ferry, we enjoyed a light dinner and then retired to our=20
    inboard cabin. The berths were exquisitely comfortable, and we slept soundl=
    y=20
    for almost 12 hours!

    We were awakened by a loud announcement over the ship=92s PA system that=20
    Breakfast Was Served. After an absolutely dynamite all-you-can-eat buffet,=20=
    we=20
    waddled down to the car and soon found ourselves on the Danish motorway, des=
    tined=20
    for the starting location, the town of =C5rhus.=20

    Annoyingly, both Denmark and Sweden have ridiculous traffic laws that mandat=
    e=20
    the full-time use of headlights, we we had to constantly remind ourselves to=
    =20
    turn the damn things on, and then turn them off when we stopped so we didn=
    =92t=20
    drain the battery.

    Along the way, I discovered that my horn button, which had failed on me on=20
    last year=92s rally but had been patched together in Geneva by Thierry Monne=
    y, had=20
    conked out again. Upon arrival and check-in at =C5rhus, we were subjected t=
    o a=20
    moderate technical inspection, consisting of a test of turn signals, lights,=
    =20
    and the horn. All went well until I was asked to sound the horn; as=20
    spontaneously but as if on cue, both George and I leaned our heads out the w=
    indow and=20
    shouted =93BEEP!=94

    The inspectors laughed, and then waved us on.

    I noted that the clutch pedal was high and had zero free play, this despite=20
    the fact that I had adjusted it not that long ago. I steered my way to the=20
    Royal Auto Club mechanics, and asked if they=92d take a look at it. Within=20=
    five=20
    minutes, the car was in the air, the adjuster adjusted, and I once again had=
    =20
    free play at the clutch. Gotta love those guys.

    By now, there were over 80 cars gathered in a gravel lot in front of the=20
    town=92s cultural center and museum. Oldest and arguably most significant w=
    as a=20
    1928 Bentley race car, of the type which won Le Mans that year. This partic=
    ular=20
    car had been sent to Argentina from new where it enjoyed a successful race=20
    history during the pre-war years, and had eventually found its way back to t=
    he=20
    UK. The car broke on the first day, suffering a starter failure, but they w=
    ere=20
    able to push-start it, and as it had a 100-liter fuel tank, they could drive=
    =20
    it all day without shutting it off! Replacement starter bits were flown ove=
    r=20
    and the car was fixed on the third day.

    We were treated to a welcome reception and a greeting by a city councilman,=20
    then took a Volvo shuttle to our hotel, which was a beautiful creation datin=
    g=20
    from the early 1800s and located near the city center.

    After getting situated, we strolled the cobblestone streets, and sat down at=
    =20
    a quiet outdoor cafe in a small square, basking in the sunlight and watching=
    =20
    the world go by. I was especially taken by the scenery, in the form of=20
    delectable Eurobabes who seemed to travel in packs. Tall, Nordic with blond=
    hair and=20
    blue eyes, they seemed to be everywhere. As this is a college town, they ar=
    e=20
    also of an age where flaws are few and far between.

    I could get used to this place. :>)

    We decided to forgo a heavy meal and eventually decided on a bowl of chili,=20
    which seems strangely out of place in a small city in Denmark, but it appear=
    ed=20
    on the menu of virtually every restaurant and bar. I wasn=92t expecting muc=
    h=20
    and was therefore greatly surprised to discover some of the best chili I=92d=
    ever=20
    had in my life!

    A post-dinner stroll took us to a more populated part of the city, teeming=20
    with nightlife, with large outdoor cafes filled with people. We spotted sev=
    eral=20
    of our fellow rally participants and settled down to join them for a beer or=
    =20
    three.

    We were well-entertained by a father-and-son team, a pair of Irishmen from=20
    Dublin driving a Jensen CV8 (called a Chinese Eyes Jensen, go ahead, do a Go=
    ogle=20
    search on it). Vincent and Rolan O=92Reilly had us in stitches all night lo=
    ng.=20
    Commenting on the high number of Eurobabes and the seemingly favorable=20
    babe-to-guy ratio among the people in the area, Vincent remarked in his thic=
    k Lucky=20
    Charms brogue, =93I tink dey must drown fifty percent of d=92boys at birt!=
    =94

    The next morning, we were away on the first official day of the rally. Our=20
    first stop was Legoland, a stop which drew some healthy skepticism among som=
    e=20
    participants but which was actually greatly enjoyed. Snacks and drinks were=
    =20
    waiting for us in our private parking lot, and complimentary admission to th=
    e=20
    park allowed us to ride the kiddie roller coaster (we couldn=92t resist) as=20=
    well=20
    as eyeball the rather comprehensive Lego exhibits.

    This was followed by a very rural drive of some 82 miles, over some roads=20
    small enough to not warrant any kind of center line; the destination was Ege=
    skof=20
    Slott, a castle in the Danish countryside. Besides featuring beautiful=20
    grounds and a stately castle complete with moat, the owner of the castle had=
    a=20
    rather large collection of cars, trucks and airplanes on display in his priv=
    ate=20
    museum.

    We spent a good part of the afternoon there, then pressed on via a short=20
    20-mile run to Odense, site of the home of Hans Christian Anderson and featu=
    ring a=20
    museum of his works. We didn=92t arrive until after it had closed and misse=
    d=20
    it not one bit. After getting our route card stamped and sucking down a qui=
    ck=20
    drink, we continued on to our overnight stop at Nyborg Strand, where all the=
    =20
    participants were able to share the same hotel (the only time this was true=20=
    on=20
    the whole rally). The traditional end-of-event dinner was thus held on the=20
    first night instead of the last, and we enjoyed great conversation with a ta=
    ble=20
    full of Irishmen, including a couple who were returning to the event in thei=
    r=20
    Ferrari 330 GTS, having elected to leave the Ferrari Daytona and Maserati=20
    Ghibli at home. His daily driver is a Ferrari 456. Must be nice! :>)

    The weather had been decent during the day, but during dinner the heavens=20
    opened in a hellacious torrent. This was a pattern to be repeated several t=
    imes=20
    during the course of the event.

    In the morning the skies were still rather gloomy and we encountered some=20
    light drizzle as we crossed a massive suspension bridge to Denmark=92s main=20=
    island.=20
    The skies cleared as we approached the Koreteknisk Institut, a small privat=
    e=20
    race track used for historic and club racing as well as driver training.

    The track was open for our use, and after a quick rest, we set out to feel=20
    our way around. The track was short enough that it could be circulated in a=
    bout=20
    one minute. It feels decidedly odd bashing around a race track in a car tha=
    t=20
    is loaded to the absolute maximum with a trunk and passenger floorboards=20
    filled with luggage, computers, cameras, tools, and a comprehensive array of=
    =20
    (heavy) spare parts, while not wearing any helmets, and with no restrictions=
    or=20
    rules to speak of. The organizers rely on the instinct for self-preservatio=
    n as=20
    well as traditional British civility to avoid any problems, and in this they=
    =20
    are universally successful.

    Among the participating cars, by far the fastest one was a genuine 1973=20
    Kremer Porsche 911 RSR. This particular car was the =91mule=92 given to Kre=
    mer to=20
    develop their RSR Group 4 race cars, which subsequently proved to dominate i=
    n=20
    European racing. While boasting no racing history itself, it was nonetheles=
    s=20
    wicked fast!

    Although in terms of speed, and talent, I am most assuredly in the bottom=20
    half among the people I normally open-track with in the Nor-Cal Shelby Club,=
    I=20
    found that in this particular group I was rather near the top of the heap. =20=
    I=20
    was keen to see how I would do against the =9167 Mustang, and was quite chuf=
    fed=20
    when we took to the track at the same time and I simply drove away from him=20=
    and=20
    left him for dead, eventually catching and passing him again. Whee!

    The only drama of the day was when a fellow named Bill spun his big-block=20
    1969 Corvette convertible in a big way coming onto the front straight on his=
    =20
    first lap, and wound up in the grass. However, he soon rejoined the fray an=
    d=20
    continued to drive around, albeit with a degree of circumspection that might=
    =20
    better have been introduced earlier.

    This was followed with a short drive to Ledreborg Slott, a privately owned=20
    castle which also has one the longest tree-lined avenues in Denmark, over fo=
    ur=20
    and a half miles. There we found a luncheon waiting for us, and we enjoyed=20
    fine conversation with a husband-and-wife team driving a Sunbeam Tiger, and=20
    another couples team in a custom 1951 Bentley set up as a 1930s-style racing=
    car,=20
    completely devoid of any weather protection whatsoever.

    We then set out on a short 10-mile drive to Roskilde, the seaside town which=
    =20
    has a fantastic Viking museum featuring five original Viking ships which had=
    =20
    been sunk in the mud and thus preserved for thousands of years, and recently=
    =20
    unearthed and preserved. It was here that the problems started.
    =0BWell, to be honest, the problems really started years ago. I had the eng=
    ine=20
    in my car rebuilt in 1997 and it was supposed to be fitted with a new clutch=
    =20
    at the time, but instead a cheaper rebuilt stock-style clutch was installed.=
    =20
    It was never really satisfactory, and always had a fair bit of chatter. But=
    =20
    now, suddenly, it was markedly worse, requiring brutal slipping in order to=20
    avoid tooth-jarring shudder which seemed to want to tear the driveshaft out=20=
    of=20
    the car.

    Not good.

    We blew off the museum and struggled to make it to Copenhagen, a further 20=20
    miles away. We made it into the town square and parked in front of City Hal=
    l,=20
    then sought out professional help.

    The RAC mechanics had already been busy that day, changing out the entire=20
    back axle on a Fiat 124 after the differential blew out. They were not plea=
    sed=20
    at the prospects of pulling the transmission and changing the clutch on my c=
    ar,=20
    at night, on their backs with the car on jackstands--and this presumed that=20=
    a=20
    replacement clutch could even be found. Things were looking grim.

    Fortunately, the RAC had a Danish opposite number in their midst, and they=20
    conferred with him. He suddenly got the big A-ha!, snapped his fingers and=20
    whipped out his cell phone.

    I soon found myself speaking with a fellow named Bryan Stoltze, who runs an=20
    outfit called B&S Auto just outside of town. As my considerable good luck=20
    would have it, Bryan runs a shop that deals exclusively with vintage Mustang=
    s! =20
    (His website is www.b-s-auto.dk, check it out). Furthermore, he had a=20
    replacement clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel just sitting on his she=
    lf (used,=20
    but like new), and said that if we got there in an hour he could do the work=
    =20
    right that night!

    The RAC boys all had GPS nav systems so two of them piled into one of their=20
    trucks and led us through a driving rainstorm to the shop. We encountered=20
    heavy traffic which did the clutch no good at all.

    George and I were a bit skeptical as we approached, expecting to find a=20
    backwoods shade-tree joint. Instead we were pleased when we pulled into the=
    =20
    industrial park to find five 60s Mustangs parked in front of the shop, inclu=
    ding a=20
    fully race-prepared GT-350 clone on a trailer, and inside found a totally=20
    immaculate shop jammed with more Mustangs, including a =9167 coupe that was=20=
    being=20
    turned into a killer dedicated race car.

    The =9167 had been brought over from the USA a few months earlier, and had=20
    recently been fitted with a new clutch. As part of its race preparation, it=
    had=20
    been replaced by a Tilton multi-disc setup, leaving the stock clutch surplus=
    to=20
    the cause.

    My car was wheeled onto the lift, and up we went. Bryan showed himself to b=
    e=20
    a fellow of uncommonly good humor, and made it a point to laugh in hysterics=
    =20
    at my car, which was both filthy and suffering from unpardonable (in his vie=
    w)=20
    mechanical sins such as rubber motor mounts, stock (but in good shape)=20
    suspension bushings, etc.

    Initially we thought the RAC boys were going to turn around and head for hom=
    e=20
    once they=92d led us to the shop, but they couldn=92t help themselves and so=
    on=20
    they were in there spinning ratchets alongside Bryan. That left no room for=
    me,=20
    so I stood aside and made gentle suggestions or pointed out various m
    echanical idiosyncrasies unique to my car.

    Down with the parking brake, out with the driveshaft and starter, off with=20
    the exhaust, disconnect the shifter, and heave-ho, the gearbox was out. The=
    n=20
    the bellhousing had to be removed. It wouldn=92t quite clear the exhaust u=
    ntil a=20
    big piece of steel was introduced to one of the collectors and suitable=20
    influence brought to bear, at which point it popped free.

    =93This clutch is history=94 Brian said, as a cloud of debris fell from the=20
    junction between the bellhousing and block. The pressure plate was removed,=
    and=20
    dropped straight into a well-positioned trash can, along with the disc. The=
    =20
    pressure plate and flywheel were both blue and cracked from severe overheati=
    ng. =20
    The disc was pretty well worn-out, but the problem immediately became appare=
    nt=20
    when we turned it over. Half the friction material had broken away=20
    completely, leading to metal-on-metal between the clutch disc and the flywhe=
    el, never a=20
    good thing!

    Once it was determined that the =91new=92 clutch was identical to the old on=
    e and=20
    repairs could continue, suddenly the spanners hit the floor, for now it was=20
    7:00 p.m. and time for the Danish equivalent of a traditional British tea=20
    break. We all gathered in a conference room and enjoyed coffee, soda, and a=
    cake=20
    that Bryan=92s wife baked for us upon learning of our pending arrival, and=20
    ordered dinner from a local take-out joint. After an hour of BS-ing (Bryan=20=
    is a=20
    singularly entertaining fellow), dinner arrived and we spent another 45 hour=
    s=20
    chowing on cheap but delicious steaks. Bryan has won the FIA Historic Touri=
    ng=20
    Car championship for the last ten straight years behind the wheel of his=20
    self-prepared 1966 Mustang coupe, and also prepares the cars for a good perc=
    entage of=20
    his competitors.

    He said that his business strategy was to build their cars faster than his,=20
    visibly faster, but then beat them anyway!

    Once dinner was through, we continued with installing the new clutch and=20
    screwing the car back together, finishing up just before 10:00 p.m. For thi=
    s, I=20
    was charged 2000 Danish Kroner for the parts and 2000 for labor, something o=
    n=20
    the order of $700 or so. Under the circumstances, I couldn=92t have been=20
    happier, and of course the car was transformed!

    We drove back to the town square and parked the car, then walked to the=20
    Tivoli Gardens across the street just in time to have the gates slammed in o=
    ur=20
    faces. Oh well, we wandered to an Irish pub instead and found Bill the Corv=
    ette=20
    Guy lamenting the sorry state of his car following his first-lap off-track=20
    excursion. Talk of worn-out shocks and crappy tires ensued, although my gen=
    tle=20
    suggestion was that going full throttle in the middle of a turn after four=20
    corners in a big-block ANYTHING was a sure-fire recipe for disaster!

    A hoped-for early evening failed to materialize, and we plopped into our=20
    hotel room well after midnight. =20

    The next morning we had a short, clutch-chatter-free urban drive to the=20
    Sommers Automobil Museum, a small and tidy collection of cars with a nice em=
    phasis=20
    on Jaguars, including both C- and D-types, as well as a rocketship TVR=20
    Griffith which itself won the 2003 FIA European Historic Sports Car champion=
    ship.

    We had a brief drive to a ferry, where we then sailed for about 30 minutes=20
    across a channel to Sweden. A short road section took us to Knutstorf Circu=
    it,=20
    a small club racing track. When we pulled into the paddock George and I wer=
    e=20
    greatly surprised to see a white Pantera sitting there, with Mats Gorski,=20
    president of the Svenska De Tomaso Kl=FCbben waiting for us!

    Apparently word had spread around among the Swedish De Tomaso community that=
    =20
    we were coming to town, and Mats fired up the 351 Cleveland-powered welcome=20
    wagon and drove almost 100 miles to come see us!

    Mats, who is well into his 70s, had been racing at this track for many years=
    ,=20
    so I asked him if he wouldn=92t mind showing me =91the line=92. He strapped=
    in and=20
    we took off.

    Mats speaks seven languages fluently, but all of them exceedingly slowly=20
    (including his native Swedish). Thus when he was giving directions, by the=20=
    time=20
    he had finished we were already to and through the corner! =20

    The track featured some really interesting elevation changes, leading to=20
    blind brows. He would stick his open hand out in front of us and point, say=
    ing=20
    (slowly), =93Lefffft=94 or =93Righhhht.=94 The thing is, I thought he was t=
    elling me=20
    which direction to turn, but in fact he was simply telling me which side of=20=
    the=20
    track to be on. Thus after exiting a very slow 2nd gear uphill corner and=20
    seeing a blind crest ahead of me with cornering berms on the right, as he sa=
    id,=20
    =93Righhhht=94 I set myself up for a right turn, only to find upon cresting=20=
    the=20
    brow and turning right that the track in fact went to the left! I narrowly=20
    avoided the grass, and undoubtedly Mats wondered what the hell I was doing??=
    ?

    I soon cracked his code, and he then became extremely helpful. After a few=20
    laps I pulled in and turned the car over to George, and he took the car on a=
    =20
    few laps, while I sat in the right seat and said, (rather more quickly) =93L=
    efft=94=20
    and =93Righht=94.

    I then took over again and bashed the car by myself while George and Mats=20
    enjoyed conversation in the paddock. A section of the track is configured=20
    exactly like the Esses at Sears Point, although on a smaller scale, so I was=
    able to=20
    really fly through there. Another corner featured a steep, 45-degree descen=
    t=20
    into the braking zone, which took a great leap of faith since there were no=20
    corner workers anywhere! (The event organizers did have a doctor at each of=
    =20
    the circuits as part of the organizational team).

    Eventually I pulled in and the three of us had coffee while Mats briefed us=20
    on his upcoming trip to Modena, where he was part of a small delegation=20
    travelling to the De Tomaso factory to formally say goodbye for about the te=
    nth time,=20
    as the company continues to devolve.

    We were one of the last cars to leave the track as we continued on for 65=20
    miles to B=E4ckaskog Slott (castle) where a nice luncheon awaited. 70 more=20=
    back=20
    roads miles led us to the town of V=E4xj=F6, our next overnight stop.

    I should mention that Sweden was completely different from what I had=20
    expected. Somehow I had it in my mind that it would be rather like Iceland-=
    -cold,=20
    windswept and rocky. Nothing could be further from the truth, as in fact it=
    is=20
    heavily forested, and equipped with rather wide and fast roads. Oddly, Swed=
    en=20
    was recently struck with a hurricane (who knew they had hurricanes in=20
    Scandinavia?) which had knocked down 20% of the trees throughout the country=
    .. So=20
    everywhere we went, we saw signs of the recent devastation, and logging comp=
    anies=20
    were busy scooping up the fallen trees and trying to salvage something.

    We pulled into V=E4xj=F6 and parked in the town square, then attended anothe=
    r=20
    reception with a welcome from the town=92s mayor. Soon a familiar rumble co=
    uld be=20
    heard, and over the tops of the other cars a white wing could be seen. Bj=
    =F6rn=20
    Carlsson had arrived behind the wheel of his 1986 Pantera GT5-S.

    We exchanged greetings, then set out to head back to his house for dinner. =20
    He lives out in the country, in a small village about 45 miles from the city=
    .. =20
    Now, in previous international meetings the Swedes had earned a reputation f=
    or=20
    overly conservative driving, tooling along in groups in the slow lane going=20=
    5=20
    mph under the speed limit, etc. So when George piled into the Pantera and I=
    =20
    followed along in the GT-350 I had a leisurely drive in mind.

    But as soon as we got to the city limits, suddenly there was a puff of smoke=
    =20
    from the quad tailpipes, the rear suspension squatted down and the Pantera=20
    simply took off! I grabbed third gear and stood on it, then banged into 4th=
    and=20
    did it again, and soon was sailing along at over 100 mph in an effort to kee=
    p=20
    up! There was a bit of a rubber band effect as we would get slowed up by a=20
    logging truck, then Bj=F6rn would make it around him but I couldn=92t due to=
    =20
    traffic. So at the next opportunity I had to really fly to catch up. It wa=
    s a=20
    fantastic, life-affirming drive, and when we turned onto a slightly bumpy ro=
    ad, my=20
    suspension bottomed a few times as we hurtled along, now completely devoid o=
    f=20
    traffic.

    We got to Bj=F6rn=92s house, situated alongside a beautiful lake, and spent=20=
    a=20
    good hour admiring his garage, which he had expanded a few years ago. Besid=
    es=20
    his white GT5-S Pantera and his daily driver something-or-other, it also=20
    contained a beautiful red 1971 Pantera (only the 14th car made), and a blue=20=
    De Tomaso=20
    Longchamp GTS couple (think Mercedes 450SL) undergoing restoration, two=20
    motorcycles, and a fully-equipped underground machine shop!

    His wife fired up the BBQ and we enjoyed a terrific steak dinner, along with=
    =20
    his parents, who were equally charming (and in fact who we had met at a De=20
    Tomaso event in Austria three years ago).

    Eventually George and I headed back to town, at a slightly reduced pace (!),=
    =20
    but we could still hustle along since it was still light out, even at 10:30=20
    p.m.

    The next morning we arose early, and lined up for our departure. Vincent,=20
    our Irish friend in the Jensen was ready to pull out, and George yielded to=20=
    him,=20
    waving and saying, =93After you!=94

    Vincent waved back and said, =93Tanks, yer a gentleman=94 to which George=20
    replied, =93Why thank you, nobody has called me that in quite some time.=94
    =0BQuick as a flash, with a twinkling smile, as he pulled away Vincent said=20
    over his shoulder, =93Well, most people=92r honest....=94

    HAHAHAHA!!!

    We cruised to a glassworks (the seemingly obligatory shopping stop for the=20
    gentler participants) and blew right through the checkpoint after a quick bi=
    te=20
    to eat, then enjoyed a very rural section through typical Swedish villages t=
    o=20
    Eksj=F6, a charming 600-year-old town, where we were greeted by a wonderful=20=
    array=20
    of local car enthusiasts who had brought their own classic cars out to=20
    display them alongside ours. We were once again allowed to park right in th=
    e city=20
    square and were greeted by the mayor, before wandering through the old woode=
    n=20
    buildings and finding a place to eat.

    We chose a place called the Balkan Pizzeria, which we learned (after we had=20
    ordered) was in fact a Chinese restaurant! So instead of Balkan or Italian=20
    food, we enjoyed Chinese beef, pork and noodles with rice.

    Our next leg took us some 60 miles along deserted roads to Mantorp Park,=20
    Sweden=92s main race track.

    Until now, the circuits we had been driving on had been small and tight, and=
    =20
    thus very easy on the brakes. But Mantorp Park has a single, long straight=20
    that ends in a tight 2nd gear hairpin right hand turn, and soon after taking=
    to=20
    the track, I began to doubt the wisdom of continuing without changing brake=20
    pads.

    My car is equipped with Porterfield R4-S pads, which are excellent=20
    dual-purpose pads but which most decidedly will not tolerate full-on racetra=
    ck abuse for=20
    long. Knowing this I carry a set of slightly used R4 race-compound pads=20
    among my piles of spare parts. The smart thing to do would have been to fit=
    them=20
    right away, but I was seeing the red mist, and having fitted brake cooling=20
    ducts I thought that perhaps I could get away with it.

    Actually, no. After about 45 minutes of blasting around (George and I took=20
    turns), reaching speeds in excess of 110 mph on the back straight, I pulled=20=
    in=20
    to give a ride to a fellow in a Triumph TR6, and on my next lap heard a=20
    somewhat familiar sound--the sound of backing plates lightly kissing rotors.

    I pulled in and wheeled up to the RAC van, and asked to borrow a jack so tha=
    t=20
    I could remove my now-destroyed street pads and fit my race pads. Instead I=
    =20
    was kindly shoved out of the way and the RAC men promptly changed the pads f=
    or=20
    me! We still had some time left, so I grabbed the owner of the green Mustan=
    g=20
    and took him out for a ride.

    What a revelation! I had forgotten how much more effective these=20
    race-compound pads are at racing speeds, since I hadn=92t used them since 20=
    03. I could=20
    now reach eye-popping velocities (well, for my passengers anyway) on the bac=
    k=20
    straight before absolutely standing on the brakes, heel-and-toeing down into=
    3rd=20
    then 2nd and pitching the car into the corner for a nice, controlled slide=20
    all the way around. Whee!!!!

    As I mentioned before the Porsche RSR was without a doubt the fastest car=20
    present, but oddly enough the owner would normally only take a few laps, bli=
    tz=20
    everybody, and then disappear down the road. George and I, on the other han=
    d,=20
    fully exploited the opportunities to drive on the track, and I in particular=
    =20
    would go around and around and around, pulling in to switch passengers, then=
    go=20
    around and around and around some more....

    The other Mustang owner was quite surprised to see how well my car handled=20
    and braked compared to his. His is equipped with exceedingly crappy street=20
    tires while mine enjoys quality Z-rated Firestones, and that undoubtedly mak=
    es a=20
    big difference; the Shelby handling package also goes a long way. My car is=
    =20
    seriously hobbled by over-tall gearing (3.25 rear end) and a general lack of=
    =20
    power, at least by USA Mustang standards. So it is very much a back-of-the-=
    pack=20
    kind of car at US track events, and thus my little ego was greatly inflated=20=
    by=20
    my near-top-of-the-heap status here. A well-driven Sunbeam Tiger was closel=
    y=20
    matched with me; I could out-corner him easily but his superior power and=20
    lighter weight and better gearing allowed him to just drive away from me in=20=
    the=20
    straights. There was also a Ferrari 246 Dino running with us, and depending=
    on=20
    the track layout, either car might enjoy the advantage. Once again cornerin=
    g=20
    seemed to be my strong suit, and he seemed to enjoy a bit of a speed=20
    advantage on the straights.

    Another improbable contender was a bone-stock Triumph Stag. This is a car=20
    that, although equipped with a V-8, should have quickly receded into my wake=
    ,=20
    were it not for the fact that the driver knows the car intimately and is, to=
    put=20
    it mildly, a complete wild man. Following behind him was highly=20
    entertaining, for he danced on the absolute limit of adhesion in every corne=
    r, with the=20
    car rolling over on its soft suspension, lifting the inside front tire off t=
    he=20
    ground, and generally sliding and slithering around as he sawed at the wheel=
    .. =20
    I prefer to keep a rather healthy margin of error as the Armco barriers=20
    typically found at European tracks tend to be rather unforgiving of errors i=
    n=20
    judgment, but he seemed rather less concerned.=20

    In one instance I got the Red Mist and out-powered him down the back=20
    straight. He waved me past and I pulled a good car length ahead of him, but=
    as I was=20
    still on my street brake pads I braked rather early and cautiously, at which=
    =20
    point he out-braked me and took the corner back from me!

    In any case, George and I drove the car literally until the gas tank was=20
    empty, and I limped into the pits with the engine sputtering from fuel starv=
    ation.=20
    The other Mustang offered up five liters of fuel and I made my way to=20
    another fuel stop (one of countless, and countlessly expensive fuel stops al=
    ong the=20
    way) before arriving in Link=F6ping.

    Another Swedish Pantera owner named Yngve Pettersson lived in this town, but=
    =20
    he was in Milan on business and couldn=92t meet us for dinner, so instead we=
    =20
    joined a half-dozen other rally participants and enjoyed a feast in an outdo=
    or=20
    cafe on the main square, right next to all the cars. Literally thousands of=
    =20
    people turned up to look at the cars, as in fact they had at virtually all o=
    ur=20
    lunch and overnight stops.

    As it had almost every night, the heavens opened up after we had parked, but=
    =20
    we had enjoyed dry driving all day long.

    A local TV station ran a five-minute feature on the event on the news that=20
    night. They had set up their camera along the shorter straight, and on two=20
    separate occasions, they were panning a particular car (1961 Corvette in one=
    =20
    instance, Jaguar 140 in the other) as it accelerated down the straight, when=
    VAROOM=20
    out of nowhere a red and white GT-350 clone roared past and absolutely blew=20
    the other car=92s doors off.

    Hee hee...:>)

    The next day dawned overcast and chilly. We drove to our first stop, the=20
    castle and fortress at Karlsborg, some 80 miles distant. Yngve had come in=20=
    late=20
    the night before, but got up early and drove down in his Pantera to see us=20
    off; sadly we only had about ten minutes to chat because we were running lat=
    e due=20
    to a problem with the hotel shuttle bus driver, who apparently didn=92t=20
    understand that once his bus was full, he was supposed to drive us back to t=
    he cars!

    Along the drive, we enjoyed mostly twisty roads at elevated speeds although=20
    occasionally we=92d get backed up behind a truck or bus for a few miles. =20
    Rounding a corner I saw a red sports car in front of us, nearing the bottom=20=
    of a long=20
    downhill straight followed by an uphill. Believing it was an MGA which=20
    historically had been running quite slowly, I was determined to pass him bef=
    ore he=20
    reached the twisties at the top of the hill, for afterwards it might be mile=
    s=20
    before another opportunity presented itself.
    =0BSo down the hammer went, and the speedo needle quickly climbed, but oddly=
    we=20
    weren=92t catching him nearly as quickly as I thought we would. As we=20
    continued to accelerate, to and through 100 mph, I realized that the car in=20=
    question=20
    was in fact a well-driven Triumph TR4, which was probably going 80 mph himse=
    lf.=20
    At this point I was morally committed, so kept my foot in it, and right as=20
    we got to the bottom of the hill, I glanced down and saw the speedo going=20
    through 120 mph. At the bottom there was an irregularity in the road, which=
    =20
    bottomed the suspension and caused it to lurch to one side, inspiring an=20=
    =93OH!=94 from=20
    my intrepid passenger. Nevertheless, we swept past the Triumph and powered=20=
    up=20
    the hill, lifting to whiz through the corner at a more sedate speed, althoug=
    h=20
    we soon left the Triumph in the dust.

    A few minutes later, George quietly said, =93That was a little fast for me..=
    ..=94=20
    to which I replied, =93Me too!=94

    After yet another greeting by a local politician, we blew through the castle=
    =20
    and then continued on to the Kinnekulle-Ring circuit. This is another=20
    smallish club racing track, but one for which my car seemed rather well-suit=
    ed. =20
    George took a few exploratory laps and pressed the car a bit, and then I too=
    k over=20
    and, having gone to school while George was driving, pressed it a bit=20
    further. Knowing that this was our last track opportunity, and with the rac=
    ing brake=20
    pads still in place, I felt more comfortable pushing the car harder, and lon=
    ge
    r. I would periodically pull in to drop off a passenger and give a ride to=
    =20
    somebody else. I gave a ride to the tirelessly working RAC mechanic who had=
    =20
    worked on my clutch; they had a rather easier time of it on this trip than i=
    n=20
    years past and found themselves with free time on this last day. He really=20
    seemed to enjoy his ride.

    I also gave a ride to the driver of the =9151 Bentley Special. He had seen=20=
    me=20
    running on the track, and my car was noticeably faster than his, but he was=20
    literally shocked and astounded when he rode with me and saw how neutral the=
    =20
    handling was, how powerful the brakes were, and how much cornering grip the=20=
    car=20
    had, even running on street tires.

    In fact, three or four people came up to me during the course of the event=20
    having been astounded that an American car could not only run with, but run=20=
    away=20
    from most of the European sports cars, and now several of them are seriously=
    =20
    contemplating adding a well-prepared 60=92s Mustang to their stables!

    Duncan was back out in his green =9167 fastback, and we ran together for=20
    awhile. He seriously held me up in the corners, but then slowly, due to gea=
    ring and=20
    power again, pulled away from me on the straight. Lap after lap we circled,=
    =20
    until he finally let me by, and then I pulled away from him. The Triumph St=
    ag=20
    appeared in my mirrors, and deciding that discretion was the better part of=20
    valor, I waved him by and then chased him for awhile, laughing out loud as I=
    =20
    watched his car careening and sliding all over the track.

    This track was unusually hard on my car though. From the second corner all=20
    the way back around to the front straight, I NEVER got below 5000 rpm. I=
    =92d=20
    scream through the right-hand turn two in 2nd gear, bang into third just bef=
    ore=20
    the exit, but only for a moment, then heel-and-toe back into second for the=20
    left-hand turn 3. Hard on the gas for a moment, then tap the brake to settl=
    e the=20
    nose as the car went over a rise into the next right-hand corner, taken at=20
    about 3/4 throttle, 5000 rpm in second. Up to 5500 or so, then tap the brak=
    e=20
    and turn in to the left, again going from 5000 to 6000 through the corner, t=
    hen=20
    hard on the brake, and a tight right-hand corner, short straight and another=
    =20
    right-hand corner leading onto the front straight, where I=92d see 4th gear=20=
    for a=20
    short time.

    Lap after lap, and then I started thinking about the fact that at most track=
    s=20
    I was spending a lot less time at those elevated rpms. My motor has a=20
    completely stock crank with stock rods and bolts, and I=92m sure it just doe=
    sn=92t like=20
    spinning that high, that long, so eventually I decided to call it a day. I=20
    had still driven 50 or 60 laps, easily twice as many an anybody else though.=
    =20
    Mine is the Energizer Bunny of track cars. :>)

    I let the car cool down for awhile and shot some photos of the other cars on=
    =20
    the track before changing to a third set of (new) generic street brake pads=20
    that I had with me. After a quick stop at a Scottish restaurant (McDonald=
    =92s)=20
    for a very late lunch, we went on to Trollh=E4ttan, home of Saab, where we t=
    oured=20
    the small but very tidy Saab museum, then continued on to Gothenburg, the la=
    st=20
    stop on the rally.

    Upon entering the city and parking in the city square, we were presented wit=
    h=20
    finisher=92s medals, and then enjoyed another fine meal in an outdoor bistro=
    ..

    Although the event had nominally finished, in fact it hadn=92t. For the nex=
    t=20
    morning, we all got up and drove to the Volvo headquarters, where we were to=
    be=20
    treated to a morning of corporate hospitality. After a brief audio/visual=20
    presentation and an address by one of the Big Kahunas of the company, we wer=
    e=20
    split into three groups and boarded buses.

    My group=92s first stop was a small meeting center in a manufactured garden=20
    environment on the water. There we were briefed by a pair of female designe=
    rs on=20
    the development of the YCC, which stands for Your Concept Car. This was a=20
    concept unveiled last year that was entirely designed and engineered by wome=
    n,=20
    for women. There was a small bit of derision from the male chauvinist pig=20
    section of the gallery but most people seemed impressed with its innovative=20=
    and=20
    chick-friendly features. :>)

    Our next stop was the Volvo museum, which was much larger and more=20
    comprehensive than the Saab museum had been. Volvos weren=92t imported to t=
    he USA until=20
    the 50s so most Americans don=92t realize that they had been producing cars=20=
    since=20
    the 20s, cars which were almost exact copies of American designs of the day,=
    =20
    looking very much like the full-size Chevrolets, Pontiacs and Fords which=20
    trolled our highways back then.

    Our next stop was a small, one-lane test track, where about 20-25 current=20
    Volvo cars and trucks were parked. Here we were afforded the opportunity to=
    =20
    test-drive anything we wanted, taking two laps before pulling in and switchi=
    ng=20
    cars. Although we hadn=92t thought this would be overly interesting, in fac=
    t it=20
    was surprisingly enjoyable, as we leapt out of an SUV and into a sedan, then=
    =20
    back into a coupe, and then a wagon, and so on and so forth, and drove them=20=
    like=20
    rental cars when out of sight of their minders. ABS working? Check. =20
    Stability control working? Whoops, not installed on this car, mind the grav=
    el trap!

    Predictably enough, we were the very last to leave and the others were all=20
    patiently waiting on the tour bus as we pulled in, parked and ran to join th=
    em.

    The event finally drew to a close with a giganto buffet luncheon, where it=20
    was announced that the 2006 version of the event would again feature Volvo=20
    sponsorship, and would concentrate on Sweden and Norway.

    Most people were planning on spending the afternoon enjoying the town, then=20
    heading for home in the morning, but George and I had other, more ambitious=20
    plans. For the Swedish De Tomaso club had several members who had invited u=
    s to=20
    pay them a visit in various other parts of the country.

    When agreeing to the agenda, I didn=92t take into account that Sweden is an=20
    improbably large country, considering that it=92s in Europe. We typically t=
    hink of=20
    European nations as little dinky things, but Sweden is bigger than Californi=
    a=20
    (although with only nine million people, has a population smaller than Los=20
    Angeles). So when we set off for the Stockholm area, we faced a drive of so=
    me=20
    325 miles or so.

    Initially we were on a motorway, but this soon turned into a strange two-lan=
    e=20
    road. Strange because it was unusually wide, with a paved hard shoulder. =20
    And unlike virtually any other country I=92ve ever seen (and I=92ve seen a b=
    unch),=20
    the drivers here treat the shoulder as a driving surface. Much of the traff=
    ic=20
    would drive along straddling the line with two and sometimes all four wheels=
    =20
    on the shoulder, to enable faster traffic to overtake without actually cross=
    ing=20
    the center line. Lane-sharing, if you will. It was a very odd sensation to=
    =20
    pass cars on a two-lane road with oncoming traffic, but everybody seems to=20
    cooperate, and indeed oncoming cars would move over to the shoulder to allow=
    you=20
    enough room to cross the centerline into their lane and effect a pass!

    We waited for a =91rabbit=92 to appear, somebody with local knowledge who co=
    uld=20
    lead us at an elevated pace, and after not too long, we tucked in behind a f=
    ast=20
    Audi sedan and hustled right along. When he suddenly slowed, we did too, an=
    d=20
    soon a police car materialized. He led us for a few miles before turning=20
    off, at which point the hammer came down and away we went again.

    Our destination was actually the city of Uppsala, perhaps 40-50 miles north=20
    of Stockholm. When we reached the town, we were met by Tomas Gunnarsson,=20
    behind the wheel of his Mercedes since his Pantera is scattered about his wo=
    rkshop,=20
    as he bravely tackles an overhaul of the fiendishly complicated ZF gearbox.=20=
    =20
    He led us through the town to the home of Thomas T=F6rnblom, our host for th=
    e=20
    upcoming weekend, and there we enjoyed a huge feast with his wife and three=20
    children.

    The next morning, we piled into an Audi wagon, gathered up Tomas and set off=
    =20
    for a big car show and swap meet. Nothing could have prepared us for what w=
    e=20
    saw when we got to the big farm about 30 minutes outside of town.

    Simply put, Sweden is absolutely CRAWLING with American cars! No lie, the=20
    car show probably had 2000-2500 cars, and at least 85% of them were American=
    ! =20
    And there weren=92t many dogs here--these were NICE American cars! Big 50s=20
    boats, street rods, pickup trucks, and on and on. We were just knocked out=20=
    at the=20
    whole scene.

    The Mustang Club of Sweden had a nice display (significantly, the Mustang=20
    Club of Sweden calls itself just that, not Svenska Mustang Kl=FCbben; in fac=
    t every=20
    single person we met in Sweden spoke excellent English, making us both feel=20
    rather ignorant and lame), as did the Cadillac, Jaguar and several other clu=
    bs.

    Yngve Pettersson had driven up from Link=F6ping accompanied by his wife Inga=
    in=20
    their black Pantera; another Pantera was also parked but we never managed to=
    =20
    link up with the owner. =20

    The swap meet was filled with all sorts of car parts, much of them American,=
    =20
    as well as a bunch of other flotsam and jetsam. One of the most impressive=20
    cars in the parking lot was a huge 1931 Cadillac V-16. Very few of these ca=
    rs=20
    were made and they are enormously valuable, the kind of thing that you norma=
    lly=20
    only see at Pebble Beach or Amelia Island. Yet this one was street-driven=20
    and ENJOYED, and we got to see the owners pile in and drive off late in the=20
    afternoon.

    There was a short aerial display as three pre-war biplanes circled overhead=20
    in formation, and then suddenly and surprisingly just plopped down and lande=
    d=20
    ial!our trip that much more specat the edge of the parking area!!!

    After spending all day at the show, we left and drove a few short miles to a=
    =20
    local auto museum, which was small but boasted an impressive variety of cars=
    =20
    and even a few airplanes. From there, we drove to the home of Ulf Larsson,=20
    where we enjoyed afternoon coffee and (surprise) talked about Panteras.

    Then it was back to Thomas=92 house for another dynamite dinner!

    Sunday morning, we again collected Tomas and then set off for Stockholm. Ou=
    r=20
    first visit was the home of Goran Malmberg, the well-known chassis engineer=20
    and custom guitar builder whose e-mail handle HemiPantera refers to the fact=
    =20
    that his totally re-engineered Pantera is powered by an all-aluminum 8.1 lit=
    er=20
    Hemi! The motor is absolutely huge, and even with silencing discs in his=20
    Supertrapp mufflers, it literally shakes the ground when he starts it up!

    The neighbors don=92t like him. :>)

    Ulf=92s Pantera was in his shop having new high-dollar shocks and springs=20
    fitted; Goran pointed out to us that the car was absolutely riddled with ser=
    ious=20
    chassis rust! So certainly fitting expensive suspension to this car is a bi=
    g=20
    waste of money, as the car itself is basically one big oxide undamped spring=
    ! :<(

    >From there, we drove another 40 minutes or so to the home of Kjell Jansson,=20

    who owns not only a 1985 Pantera GT5-S, but also a 1990 Pantera Si (one of o=
    nly=20
    about 29 built) and a =9198 De Tomaso Guara. He and his wife have a beautif=
    ul=20
    cottage overlooking a lake, and she knocked out another dynamite lunch. Kje=
    ll=20
    had been with Mats on the trip to visit the De Tomaso factory earlier in the=
    =20
    week, and so he briefed us on the latest goings-on there. It=92s difficult=20=
    to=20
    predict just exactly what will happen to the company, but all the employees=20
    will be leaving within the next two weeks, since under Italian law, if they=20=
    don=92t=20
    depart within a year of the announced liquidation, they render themselves=20
    ineligible for the (generous) governmental financial support that accompanie=
    s a=20
    liquidation.

    So now the company will have a warehouse full of parts, but nobody will be=20
    left who knows where each part can be found???

    We then returned to Tomas Gunnarsson=92s workshop and checked out his gearbo=
    x. =20
    He had all the parts, both old and new, carefully laid out on workbenches,=20
    and he explained to us the many variations and intricacies of his less-commo=
    n=20
    5/DS25-1 transmission when compared to the more common 5/DS25-2 variant.

    We left him behind, as this was Swedish Mother=92s Day and he was going to m=
    ake=20
    an appearance at his mom=92s house, and instead returned to Thomas=92s house=
    =20
    where we took him and his wife out to dinner at a restaurant downtown.

    Strangely, we had been in Sweden for a week and hadn=92t actually had any=20
    Swedish food yet??? And so we found ourselves in a Thai restaurant, which w=
    as=20
    nonetheless excellent!

    Following dinner we took a walk through the historic and exceedingly quiet=20
    old section of town. While walking alongside a river, we heard an incredibl=
    e=20
    shriek. A guy in a Ferrari 355 was doing drag-race starts on the road along=
    side=20
    the canal, using the paddle shift to accelerate from a standing start to=20
    perhaps 80 mph before honking on the brakes and coming almost to a stop, the=
    n=20
    doing it again. The car was fitted with a Tubi exhaust, and although it=92s=
    =20
    certainly nothing compared to a well-tuned Ford, it still sounded lovely bou=
    ncing off=20
    the old stone buildings. :>)

    The next morning we bid them farewell, and headed back south, this time=20
    aiming at the home of Kjell Iseborn, who lives on a farm about 80 km south o=
    f=20
    Gotenburg. We got there by mid-afternoon, and after a tour of his HUGE work=
    shop in=20
    an old barn, containing his Pantera GT5-S as well as his Longchamp GTS, like=
    =20
    Bj=F6rn=92s undergoing restoration and in fact being painted the same color=20=
    (=93I=20
    was first, and he copied me, the bastard!=94 he said with a big grin) and an=
    =20
    assortment of De Tomaso-themed murals and flags on the walls, he and his wif=
    e took=20
    us on a windshield tour of the neighboring town, including a stop at an old=20
    hotel that he had remodelled (complete with large swimming pool placed on th=
    e=20
    sixth floor!) =20

    After a walk around the outside of a large 14th century fortress and a stop=20
    for ice cream, we returned to the farm for what would prove to be an excelle=
    nt=20
    traditional Swedish dinner. Unfortunately something had gotten the better o=
    f=20
    me, some kind of ear infection I think, and I wound up crawling into bed an=
    d=20
    napping through dinner, so I missed it. :<(

    The next morning, we blasted off at 5:30 a.m. to make the 7:30 a.m. ferry=20
    from Gotenburg back to Denmark. Traffic was light and we got to the town mu=
    ch=20
    earlier than anticipated, which was a good thing. While sitting stopped at=20=
    a=20
    red light, a Volvo police car crossed in front of us, then suddenly the fron=
    t=20
    bumper almost hit the ground as he slammed on the brakes, stopped dead in th=
    e=20
    road, then zipped around the block to pull behind us and light us up. :<(

    This was the obligatory police stop, similar to one I=92ve had on virtually=20
    every other trip to Europe thus far. My car has no front license plate, whi=
    ch=20
    sends up red flags, and the rear plate is an American plate, which is enough=
    to=20
    clinch the deal and inspire the light show.

    After the requisite display of documents, all was forgiven and we were on ou=
    r=20
    way. We loaded up on the ferry, and noted a couple of other classic cars=20
    getting on as well. They were bound for England to participate in the Three=
    =20
    Castles tour, an event roughly similar to ours, but lacking any sort of trac=
    k=20
    driving, being mostly an organized low-speed tour through the countryside.

    After three hours we disembarked in Denmark, and then had to drive back to=20
    Esberg in order to catch the overnight ferry back to the UK. By now it was=20
    absolutely pouring with rain, as a big storm swept in from the North Sea and=
    =20
    lashed the countryside. With howling winds and driving rain, we elected to=20=
    forego=20
    the motorways (since we had time to kill) and take the secondary roads=20
    instead. Unfortunately they were polluted with big trucks and other slow-mo=
    ving=20
    traffic, so after a quick map check we pulled onto even smaller tertiary roa=
    ds,=20
    which were devoid of traffic and thus enabled us to move along at a much fas=
    ter=20
    clip, albeit not exactly in the direction we might have intended.

    This was nevertheless a very enjoyable drive, for we could go quickly in the=
    =20
    wrong direction, enjoying the scenery even as we got pounded by the rain, an=
    d=20
    normally not having to deal with other traffic, then emerge at a crossroads,=
    =20
    consult our map, and make a correction to continue on in a slightly less wro=
    ng=20
    direction.

    We got to Esberg with plenty of time to spare, and not feeling like being=20
    particularly adventurous (not to mention spendy, as restaurants in Denmark c=
    ost=20
    an absolute fortune, a decent lunch costing at least $25), we again opted fo=
    r=20
    Scottish food in preparation for our sea journey.

    We loaded up on the same ferry we had crossed over on, and skipped dinner in=
    =20
    lieu of an early turn-in, after watching Jeremy Clarkson hosting Top Gear on=
    =20
    the BBC. After an 11-hour sleep and a monster breakfast, we arrived back at=
    =20
    Harwich. At this point a funny thing happened--we basically got stuck on th=
    e=20
    ferry. The ramp was lowered, but the gate meant to keep people from walking=
    on=20
    the ramp got stuck. It was a simple affair, just a big metal garden gate=20
    secured with a one-inch-diameter pin. But the ship was tweaked, and the pin=
    was=20
    stuck.

    Loads of people standing around looking helpless, waiting for =91somebody el=
    se=92=20
    to fix the problem. The ship=92s workers were powerless to do anything. =20
    Finally I got disgusted, walked the full length of the ship back to my car,=20=
    reached=20
    into my tool bag and got a big hammer, then walked all the way back to the=20
    front. People parted as I approached, I nudged one of the ship=92s workers=20=
    out of=20
    the way, and went WHAM! and busted that pin free with one good whack!

    There was a muted round of golf applause from the assembled masses as the=20
    gates swung open, and as I walked back to my car triumphantly, I thought to=20
    myself, =93THIS is why we were the ones who walked on the moon!=94 :>)

    We then disembarked onto a moderately sunny England, and drove back to=20
    Geoff=92s house.

    We had made it. I forget how many miles we had driven, and I shudder to=20
    think of how much money we spent on gas (but unquestionably it was a lot--a=20=
    whole=20
    lot). The car is absolutely filthy, and will remain so until I return to=20
    England to drive it again--after all, what=92s the point of washing it if it=
    =92s=20
    pouring rain the next time I show up to drive it? We made a bunch of new fr=
    iends,=20
    got to visit numerous old friends in their homes (previously we had only met=
    =20
    at club meetings), learned a lot about countries that we knew absolutely=20
    nothing about, drove some superlative roads, flogged the car on four differe=
    nt race=20
    tracks, and generally had an absolutely fantastic time!

    I=92d especially like to thank our Swedish friends and hosts for making us f=
    eel=20
    so welcome and making our trip that much more special!

    I didn=92t feel nearly as compelled to document this event with photographs=20=
    as=20
    I have in previous runnings, but nevertheless I did get off a few happy snap=
    s,=20
    which can be found here:

    http://members.aol.com/mikeldrew/euroclassic2005.jpg

    Now I am sitting in an American Airlines Boeing 777, enjoying the hospitalit=
    y=20
    of Business Class (with a very nominal increase in cost since as an employee=
    =20
    I only pay the taxes; the ticket itself is basically free), heading back to=20
    California.

    But not to work--no, of course not! For tomorrow is the first day of the=20
    Wine Country Classic, the vintage races at Sears Point raceway. And Lord kn=
    ows I=20
    haven=92t spent nearly enough time around old cars lately, so you can guess=20
    where I=92ll be all weekend!

    See you at the races!

    Mike
     

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