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HELP! I'm trying to understand (Shelby serial number) details.....

Discussion in 'Shelby History and Miscellaneous Topics' started by J.Bailey, Oct 25, 2005.

  1. J.Bailey

    J.Bailey Well-Known Member

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    about Shelby serial numbers. I have a 1968 Shelby G.T.350 convertible. The plate that is riveted to the inner fender is old and is the correct number for the build sheet, title, warranty work, etc. The buck tag also matches as does the Ford VIN plate on the dash at the passenger side. Here is where I am confused: is there supposed to be a "secret" Ford number under the inner fender plate that is different from the Ford VIN number? If so is there a way to see the number from underneath so that you don't have to remove the plate? Also, how do you find out what your number is supposed to be? Thanks in advance for all the help. It's great to have access to all of this knowledge. I'm just happy to be here!!!

    In regards to my post above I just saw a 1968 Shelby on eBay and one of the photos showed the inner fender Shelby plate. The plate had the Shelby and the Ford VIN numbers stamped into it which I have never seen before on the Shelby plate. Another photo showed one of the rivets removed from the inner fender plate and it was pivoted so that you could see the number underneath. The number stamped in the inner fender was the Shelby serial number as shown on the plate. Is that correct? I thought it was supposed to be a totally different number. Thanks again.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 6, 2008
  2. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

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    Re: HELP! I'm trying to understand some details.....

    The number under the Shelby plate is the Ford Vin #. It will be the same number as the door tag, and inner apron tag and the dash tag. The Ford number is replicated on the Shelby American tag except it will also includes the 4 digit Shelby serial number. Hope this helps

    Doc :thumbsup:
     
  3. J.Bailey

    J.Bailey Well-Known Member

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    Doc, That is what I thought but I've had people act....

    as if that number is confidential and I've seen on a few eBay auctions where the seller will only disclose the number under the plate to the buyer when the auction is over. They act like it is some "secret" number. What are these people trying to do or what are they implying? Thanks so much for your help.
     
  4. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

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    Re: HELP! I'm trying to understand some details.....

    SAAC got a few members excited about the Ford Vin a couple of months ago. The problem isn't so much with 68-70's but 65-67 Shelbys. 65-67 Shelby had a unique Shelby Serial Number assigned which replicated the attributes of the car including paint, component package (AC/non AC), street or competetion use and consecutive production code. The Ford Vin identified information related to Assembly Plant, engine type, body code and consecutive unit number. The difference is the two numbers are not identical. You would need to have the Ford Vin numbers to ID whether a car was in the right build sequence for a Shelby. Supposily SAAC has all of this information which they keep closely so as to prevent this information from falling into the hands of unscrupolus individuals. When sellers were providing all of this information on-line, they were in essence giving away the vital verification data that unknowingly could be used to replicate that car down to the critical Vin #. This is when SAAC started advising it's members to be more careful. With regards to the later years (68-70), obtaining the Shelby number or Ford Vin number is not that hard if you have a registry or know what to look for. The trick is knowing where all of these numbers are located, getting the stamping correct and identfying the rest of the body buck tag information. Harder than most people think.

    Doc :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2005
  5. J.Bailey

    J.Bailey Well-Known Member

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    doc: All of my numbers seem to match so I have....

    not wanted to drill the rivets loose to look under the inner fender plate as it looks so old and untouched. I have a signed letter from Mr. Shelby to the first owner, build sheets, warranty work data, Marti Report, etc. Would you drill the rivets loose to look under the plate? Thanks again for all of your knowledge. Joe Bright.
     
  6. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

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    Re: HELP! I'm trying to understand some details.....

    Only if the mystery is killing you. If I was buying or selling, I would be ready to reveal the number. I'd drilled out one of the rivets so the tag could be spun around to reveal the Ford Vin and then re-rivited the tag back. I don't see the big deal but I guess some people are paranoid that this somehow affects the authenticity of the vehicle yada..yada.. . My comment is would you buy a Shelby without seeing that number ??? I think we knowlegable Shelby fans know the answer to that one. With regards to the vehicle you have, it's your call. The Marti Report,Shelby letter and buildsheets mean nothing to me on face value. They could come from anywhere and be duplicated for any vehicle. If you want to verify for yourself, put your own eyes on the target. Just my opinion

    Doc :thumbup:
     
  7. daltondavid

    daltondavid Well-Known Member

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    Re: HELP! I'm trying to understand some details.....

    Drilling out one Rivet is acceptable. If the guy made a fake car, chances are he was smart enough to stamp the proper number in the inner fender as well. another good thing to look at is that the Date Codes on the Roll Bar seat Belts match and the regular Belts all match. that is where some people have difficulty as it would be an overlooked item.
     
  8. J.Bailey

    J.Bailey Well-Known Member

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    Great idea! Where would I find the date codes on....

    the roll bar seat belts and the passenger compartment seat belts? Thanks a ton.
     
  9. SFM6S2015

    SFM6S2015 Well-Known Member

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    Re: HELP! I'm trying to understand some (Shelby serial number) details.....

    If you don't want to drill out the rivits just pull the fender bolts loose on the passenger side. The same # should be stamped on the apron just back of the shock tower. As stated earlier this is only realy important on 65 thru 67 cars.
     

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