I am still struggling with the concept of "a Matching Numbers car" regarding 1968 models and its true importance. The "Matching Numbers" concept seems to be mostly a marketing ploy designed to simplify and speed the sale of a high priced "Original car" and essentially implies the Ford/Shelby VIN # is stamped everywhere. If that were true, original cars would be quite easy to identify. Unfortunately this does not seem to be the case. The real concept is of "Matching Build Dates" for the car and its main components, which is far less precise than looking for particular numbers that match completely (VIN # stamped on all major parts). This leaves room for interpretation of these "matching" dates when looking for a car with its original drive train. Most important seems to be the Car's "Build Date". What is the easiest way to find an individual cars build date? I know it can be found on the Buck tag and Build sheet. Anywhere else? Unfortunately, not all cars have a build sheet. Can the buck tag be easily found or does the front fender have to be removed? Does the build date signify the date the car left the factory and was ready to drive? How about the casting date on the motor? Can it be easily found without pulling the engine? Transmission? What would be an average build time range for for a "Matching Date" car? 1 month? Since these "matching dates" lye within a range and therefore by definition are subjective, how important are these matching dates since you will never know for sure. Short of being the original owner, there will always be some uncertainty. For a 68, how would you adjust your asking/bidding price for matching or non-matching? Thanks for your help. Bob
My thought of a "matching numbers" car is that this term helps to assure the buyer that the car hasnt been beaten to death all of its life. Furthermore, what is more important than a matching numbers car in my opinion is that the car is correct. A correct car will sell as good or better than a matching numbers car at auction if the matching numbers car is not completely correct in every detail. Also, matching numbers is by far the most overused phrase in the collector car world. As you have stressed, i can been a plethora of different things. PS-the most crucial thing to remember when buying a car is that the car is only worth what the second highest bidder will pay for when you buy it so just buy a car you like. Vern
Matching numbers is not only VIN numbers on the engine and drivertrain but includes correct numbers (casting numbers or engineering numbers) on components of the engine and drivetrain of which there are dozens . Some of these items are very expensive or hard to find . A case in point ,the correct 68 X marked fe fuel pump is now trading on Ebay from 400 to 700.00. A correct restored C8ZX fan clutch might be 1000.00 to 1500. Heads ,intake ,exhaust manifold carbs all have specific numbers on them that indicate if they are appropriate on a car. This is the most relvent defination otherwise you could have a VIN stamped block and everything else is a hodge podge of incorrect or generic auto parts store parts. In some case's this could easily translate into 10's of thousands of dollars. Dates on parts is a secondary issue and only relavent if the number on the part is correct.
I agree with your concept of a correct car and buying the car you want. I am looking for the "correct" car at the correct price and that does require some basic car research/construction/date information to help confirm its "correctness". It is also nice to know what the overall market is like in terms of quality/price. It is difficult wading thru all the classic car hype these days and not to overpay for something I don't need or is irrelevant to the value of the car. I appreciate all of your help. Bob
I guess my basic question is: After checking out the Ford/Shelby VIN numbers and short of ripping the car apart, which identifying numbers are available to the naked eye? Buck tag? Engine casting date? Anything? Bob
Just about everything cast will have a date and almost everything of significant importance under the hood of a 68 will have part number/date code on it. Bottom line is if you are making a major investment if you don't know, hire someone who does to inspect car for you. Its cheap insurance.
Adding to Tim's and Bob's response you be looking to each sheet metal panel (many are very visible) for stamping dates. Each should fall into a pattern and any outside the pattern would invite further investigation. With all the efforts at saving every car possible in the recent years, for profit or pleasure, these steps are mandatory for many buyers and owners. Have a guy currently that wants a full inspection before he sends his car to the paint shop. If the car does not "fit the bill" he'll sell it and purchase another. His car his choice