The instrument light dimmer is the round white part of the headlight switch with the spring. It is a rehostat that varies the resistance in the circuit to dim the lights. If the brass contact does not touch the spring, the lights will not work. I know the switch is new, but it could have corroded spot on the spring, or just a bad switch. When it heats up, the contact could move away from the spring. Try rotating the knob when the lights are off and see if they flicker. Hook up a new switch, out of the car, and see if they behave the same way. Wiggle the wires while the instrument panel is out and see if they flicker. The ground is a small screw in the steering column support on the right hand side of the opening. It also holds the harness up. LEE MATHIAS > > From: "Jeff Fox" <jfoxnasa@worldnet.att.net> > Date: 2005/07/23 Sat PM 09:23:21 EDT > To: "Shelby List" <shelbymustang@carmemories.com> > Subject: 67 Instrument Cluster Lighting > > Can someone offer some insight into the following anomaly ... > > First, I assume my instrument cluster lighting + rally pak lighting are all routed through the headlight switch somehow. When things are normal and the switch is rotated the lights get dimmer or brighter. Of course that's how it supposed to work and used to ... > > However, sometimes when I am driving around with my running lights on (+ instrument lights working) and then I push the headlight switch off, then back on the headlights will come on, but not the instrument lights. I can park the car for a week, turn the running lights on and the instrument lights don't come on, but after driving for a while they magically start to work. Sounds like a possible grounding issue to me or could it be something in the switch itself? Aren't those things a little more complex than they look from the outside? > > All wiring is new, switch, 100% of everything on the car. I've inspected the switch, wires, etc., but can not see anything. > > Any thoughts are appreciated ... > > Thanks. > > Jeff >
