<HEAD> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV>Lee, you jogged my memory banks a little here. Here's some food for thought for those that would like to redo their engine compartment without the trouble of pulling their whole engine or taking the whole car apart. </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Could your engine use a valve job? When was the last time you had the heads off? Plan a valve job at the same time you plan to redo the engine compartment. This probably is a very good idea for the big block cars where quarters are very tight. Plan a valve job for your car and while the top end of your engine is off, detail your engine compartment. You'll be surprised how much room you'll have to work when the heads are removed. </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Cover your open engine with a tarp to protect it and you'll have a very good access to your shock towers and firewall area. Un-bolting cast iron manifolds from a FE big block Ford engine is often quite difficult. If you are going to pull the heads off for a valve job unbolt your H-pipe and just leave the exhaust manifolds bolted to the heads and have the machine shop deal with all the stubborn exhaust manifold bolts. I hate working on rusty exhaust manifold bolts! </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Another little trick is to pull the front fenders back. Without removing the fenders all the way, un-bolt all the bolts along the top of the fenders and loosen all the other ones as necessary. Pull the top of the fenders away from the engine compartment so you can clean and spray under the fender edge a little bit. Of course it would be best to remove your fenders altogether, but this is the next best thing and it looks a lot better than an engine compartment repainted without the fenders moved or removed at all. </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Just some food for thought.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Jim Seisser <BR><BR><BR>-----Original Message----- <BR>From: GT350HZ@aol.com <BR>Sent: Mar 1, 2005 10:36 PM <BR>To: jdettori@optonline.net, shelbymustang@carmemories.com <BR>Subject: Re: Low gloss black paint for engine compartment <BR><BR></DIV><ZZZHTML><ZZZHEAD><ZZZMETA content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" http-equiv="Content-Type"><ZZZMETA content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" name="GENERATOR"></ZZZHEAD><ZZZBODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" rightMargin="7" topMargin="7" leftMargin="7" bottomMargin="7"><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV>I have sprayed and sanded several areas of the engine compartment using a spray can for the last couple of years. The paint seems to fade on the shock towers, so I have redone them by spray can a couple of times. Last time they did not come out as smooth as I would like. I am not ready to pull the engine and redo the whole engine compartment as of yet. I was going to strip the shock towers and redo them, so I wanted to get some ideas. I probably will break down and have my painter do the work at the end of summer for the last couple of major local shows... unless I do a fantastic job with a spray can (like I did the year before last) . Is it your experience that the regular Krylon goes on much better than the high heat?</DIV> <DIV>Thanks for your suggestions </DIV> <DIV>Lee 66 # 869</DIV></FONT></ZZZBODY></ZZZHTML></BODY><PRE> ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com</PRE>
Jim: Neato! Where there is a will, there is a way, and yours is a great idea. Thanks Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: ecj To: shelbymustang@carmemories.com Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 9:02 PM Subject: Re: Low gloss black paint for engine compartment Lee, you jogged my memory banks a little here. Here's some food for thought for those that would like to redo their engine compartment without the trouble of pulling their whole engine or taking the whole car apart. Could your engine use a valve job? When was the last time you had the heads off? Plan a valve job at the same time you plan to redo the engine compartment. This probably is a very good idea for the big block cars where quarters are very tight. Plan a valve job for your car and while the top end of your engine is off, detail your engine compartment. You'll be surprised how much room you'll have to work when the heads are removed. Cover your open engine with a tarp to protect it and you'll have a very good access to your shock towers and firewall area. Un-bolting cast iron manifolds from a FE big block Ford engine is often quite difficult. If you are going to pull the heads off for a valve job unbolt your H-pipe and just leave the exhaust manifolds bolted to the heads and have the machine shop deal with all the stubborn exhaust manifold bolts. I hate working on rusty exhaust manifold bolts! Another little trick is to pull the front fenders back. Without removing the fenders all the way, un-bolt all the bolts along the top of the fenders and loosen all the other ones as necessary. Pull the top of the fenders away from the engine compartment so you can clean and spray under the fender edge a little bit. Of course it would be best to remove your fenders altogether, but this is the next best thing and it looks a lot better than an engine compartment repainted without the fenders moved or removed at all. Just some food for thought. Jim Seisser -----Original Message----- From: GT350HZ@aol.com Sent: Mar 1, 2005 10:36 PM To: jdettori@optonline.net, shelbymustang@carmemories.com Subject: Re: Low gloss black paint for engine compartment I have sprayed and sanded several areas of the engine compartment using a spray can for the last couple of years. The paint seems to fade on the shock towers, so I have redone them by spray can a couple of times. Last time they did not come out as smooth as I would like. I am not ready to pull the engine and redo the whole engine compartment as of yet. I was going to strip the shock towers and redo them, so I wanted to get some ideas. I probably will break down and have my painter do the work at the end of summer for the last couple of major local shows... unless I do a fantastic job with a spray can (like I did the year before last) . Is it your experience that the regular Krylon goes on much better than the high heat? Thanks for your suggestions Lee 66 # 869 ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com
