A friend of mine is very high on Royal Purple products and uses them exclusively on his newer GM vehicle. He thinks I should use them also on my car in the engine, transmission and rear end. He also said he would give me a tube of Royal Purple grease for the suspension parts. The previous owner used Castroil GTX in the engine, for the rest of the items I am not sure what he used. Although the car is a "clone" it is a very correct clone, built in 1972 it has all original Shelby parts (I was told from a wrecked GT350) including the K code engine (rebuilt less than 10K miles ago with roller rockers), the T10 top loader transmission and the 9" rear end. If the Royal Purple is a good product and will not harm what I have I would be up to try it, just looking for opinions or actual users. Thanks, Ron
Do not use synthetics in the transmission. It will cause you shifting problems because it is too thin and too slick. Don't use synthetics in the rear if it is a traction-lok differential with the clutches. Use standard gear oil with the proper additive. I use Mobil 1 in my engines if for no other reason in that it resists oxidation from heat and humidity.
Royal Purple is outstanding oil. I use it, my friends use it and it has formulations for Harleys as well.
Redline makes synthetic transmission and gear oil with the proper GL rating for our vintage trannys and diffs. I've been using them for 15+ years in my 66 GT350 without any problems. IIRC the trans oil is GL-4 and the differential stuff is GL-5, they are specific. I believe the trans oil is 90W and gear oil 75W-90. As far as motor oil if you are running a flat tapped cam just make sure you use an oil with enough zinc (ZDDP). There are additives that will boost the zinc level. I'm not a big fan of oil additives but many people seem the use them with good results.
nice info on the redline gear oil. are you using the stock T-10 or a toploader ? I've read that our flat tappet vintage motors need the old formulation of oil that had at least 1200 ppm of zddp. Few oils still have that level, one reason I'm using Mobil 1 15w-50 is that it still has 1200 ppm of zddp. No additive needed, unless for "insurance". The best additive I've heard of is http://www.cam-shield.com/index.html you can tailor the amount of it to use depending how much zddp is in the oil you prefer vs. the other popular additive "zddplus" which is a one-size-fits-all type of additive. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flat_Tappet_Engines.aspx http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_15W-50_.aspx Z.
I'm running the original close ratio cast iron T-10. Z. Ray, do you know anyone who has used this stuff? Dave
I bought some and used it last winter when I was using Mobil 1 10w-30 (which has only 800 ppm of zddp). Like any snake oil, I can't say it did work. Only that nothing bad happened. Z.
I have switched to synthetic in everything. Royal Purple is very good, but not sure if it justifies the price over the other synthetics; like Mobil 1. Oh; and I have the deer whistles too!
Hello Everyone, #2714 is in full swing. Finished rebuilding engine (69k well maintained original miles), crank, rods and cyls remained std. Question is I'm leaning towards synthetic oil and am curious as to how the break-in time differs vs conv oil? Which brand offers the greatest protection, and how does the Community feel about the Zmax product line? Another query is for the interior paint, dash and door. Which Manu best matches OEM, and source? Regards, Robert
imho, use conventional oil for break in (2,000 miles is my recommendation) and then go to synthetic. Z.
I was using Redline in my 66 before the engine was rebuilt. I spoke to their tech support about break-in and they suggested using conventional oil for at least 3,000 miles before switching. Of course if it is broken in on an engine dyno at 6500 rpm that will count for some.