T-pan mounting bolts

Greg,

The original parts lists call for the following:
(18) S2MS 6676-A Bolt - Oil Pan 1/4"-20 x 3/4"
(4) S2MS 6676-B Bolt - Oil Pan 5/16"-18 x 1
(4) S2MS 6676-C WASHER – EXTERNAL TOOTH, OIL PAN 5/16"
(18) S2MS 6676-D WASHER – EXTERNAL TOOTH, OIL PAN 1/4"

I believe that the bolts were both hex-head.

 

Allen heads are a good idea except you will need a socket and u-joint to get to some of the bolt heads.

I used the correct bolts but I had to do a lot of grinding on the pan to get enough clearance to get a socket on the bolt heads.

 

The 65 GT350 used philips head screws. The 66 GT350 used the hex headed hardware store bolts with R B W markings. AMK sells both types. Bob

 

What about the carryover cars, Bob. Philips head screws like 1965 or hex head bolts like 1966?

Thanks,
Steve

 

I learned something new. Must have been pretty hard to get any kind of torque on those Phillips head screws. No wonder they switched to a hex head in '66. Bob, do you have part numbers for those fasteners? S1MS 6676 maybe? What kind of washers were used?

 

I used some Ford oil pan bolts from a later 5.0 truck engine. They have a smaller hex. Sorry,no part#, but look at a few Ford trucks w/ 5.0 or 5.8 circa '95/'-98 ?

 

Star washers were used on the Phillips head machine screws. The didn't need but about 10-15 pounds of torque.Bob

 

Steve, that was a transition period but you would more likely (safer) to have the Phillips on a carryover car then the hex head IMHO. At least until more definitive proof presents itself. Bob

 

++1

 

In 1965, what about the front 2 and back 2 bolts (on either side of the crank) - were those philips like the side pan bolts?

Steve

 

(Corrected 2/18) no those were hex headed bolts with star washers

 

Jeff,
Are you sure about this one. The front and back bolts on each side of the crank were larger in size and as far as I can tell they were hex head.
As usual, I could be wrong and in such a case I have the wrong bolts
(4 of them) on my oil pan.
Texas Swede

 

THANKS- brain fade - too many posts and emails I guess. Yes you are correct (will change my post above so no one in the future gets mislead)


Again thanks for correcting the information supplied

 

Thanks, Swede & Jeff. Got it now. Good team work, guys.

Steve

 

Is it very hard to pull the oil pan with the engine still in the car? I need to replace my oil pan gaskets and just wonder if it is possible and still do a good job, any advice will be appreciated.

 

Not sure about that one. Seems like I did that a long time ago. If I remember correctly I had to loosen the trans crossmember and engine mounting bolts. Then jack up the engine a bit to get clearance. I think I stuck the jack under the harmonic balancer. Probably not a good thing to do, but I was young & stupid back then. Now I'm just old & stupid. Ha, ha!

Hopefully someone will chime in with better advice. Until then, this will at least give you something to think about.

Have fun, neighbor!
Steve